performance upgrades for 318 and 360 magnum rams

[TK]

well, heres a few tricks ive learned to get some more power out of these things without breaking the wallet. if you have some of your own, post em here!

ambient temp sensor- well, ever have problem with pinging? want more HP? this little booger is in the intake runner, right behind the alternator. take it out, and plug the hole. stick it in the snorkle before the air cleaner, will do wonders on pinging, and increase power a lil!

intake plenum- if you have taken a carefull look at the stock intake for these baby's, its like a tunnel ram, well, xcept for a 2bbl, and it feeds off the floor of the manifold, not really good for performance! so, heres what you do, pull the plate off the bottom, and cut the runners up about an inch and a half from the floor (starting at the center most end), angling it back to the stock place on the outward side of the runner. this seems to give a little more low end, and a few more top HP! cant lose! as soon as i get a manifold to play with, im gonna desighn a triangle to go in there that bolts on that bottom plate. think it will work better!


port matching! a must for these crude baby's! dont overdo it though, those stupid magnum heads with the pushrod in the way cant handle much more port size without the bottlneck effect, then you just lost. remember, there is no fuel mixing in the manifold, so the smoother the better!

[dwc43]

Next thing to do for some added HP is to switch to 92 93 R/T exhuast manifolds. These flow the best. After that long tube headers. Stay away from the shorties. THey don't flow much better than the stock manifolds and they are only a slight improvment. Just not worth the money. Get the long tube headers.

For pipes, on a 318 stick with 2 1/4 pipes so you want loose low end torque. For the 360 use 2 1/2 pipes. For anwhere from a 20 to 40 hp gain dump the cats. Dont waste your money on the so called high flow cats. They are still a restriction and not worth the money. You'll have to add a sim as well to the 02 sensor wires. There are two types. An adjustable and a non adjustable. There's ways around the E test, so dont worry. Gut a pair of cats and weld the empty cans around your new pipes. You just passed the visual e test. Simple things like a timming adjustment, lean fuel mixture, vacuum leaks will get you past the tests. Also for added tq and hp use a merge type X pipe. These will always show a gain where an H pipe can show anywhere from no gain, to a little gain, to a major lose.

Get some good flowing mufflers like flowmasters. These flow about the best. Don't ever pick an exhaust system for sound, since it's power and torque that you want. It wont matter what it sounds like as long as they can see your tail lights.

[TK]

Originally Posted by dwc43

You'll have to add a sim as well to the 02 sensor wires. There are two types. An adjustable and a non adjustable.

To add to this, never put a sim in the before cat O2. if the before cat O2 was in the front of the cat, move it to one of the head pipes or colloctors, a maximum of 2 feet from head. the reason for this is the warm up cycle is controlled partially by the before cat O2, so a sim will mess with the computer.
the same goes for the dual O2's (one in each head pipe)
one way to pass emissions is isopropyl alchohol in the gas, about 1/10th, make sure you have a almost empty tank, and make sure you dilute it with a fresh full tank of gas after the test! this mixture can be hard on injectors and pump.

[dwc43]

For more bolt on performance convert to an MSD ignition system and use there coils and wires for the best iginition system around. Now if nitrous is in your future, then you can use a manual or auto timming control for your msd box since you will need less gap and less timming when on the bottle. If your running an engine alone, then use the max gap on your plugs for the best in flame front travel throughout the cylinder. You should use msd's suggestions as a starting point. Then keep increasing the gap till you get a high rpm miss and then back the gap off by .005" to assure you don't get any more misfires. With wide gaps, your plugs will need to be regapped mroe often as well.

Next consider a larger throttel body, intake and injector swaps for more power. A slight increase in fuel pressure may also help as well as a higher performance fuel filter such as the Fram cartridge type unit that we use on our race cars.

You have about reached the max in bolt on performance parts at this time. Next level would be to tear into the short block and increase your compression, add a windage tray and lifter valley baffel, cams and double roller timming chains, etc.etc. etc. We can delve into that mroe latter.

[TK]

well, dont forget the cold air intake!

[TK]

OK! now were gonna get a little more complicated!

The pcm controlls engine timing/fuel/alternator voltage/tranny lock up and a whole lot more, here is a brief story on PCM's

the pcm has 9 modes of operation,
ignition switch ON (shot of pre-star fuel)
engine start up (open loop, till PCm senses 02 is hot/engine is warm)
idle
cruise (setting advances timing and fuel mixture for optimum economy)
acceleration
off throttle
full throttle
engine kill (off) stores codes and info from previouse run
idle and cruise modes are the only closed loop modes

the PCM reads sensors thrue out the engine and vehicle, and calculates mixture, timing in all engine operation. the PCM has two different modes, open loop, and closed loop. they are exacly the oposite of how they sound. during open loop mode, the PCM is closed to the input the sensors are giving it, and adjusts fuel/timing/ect accordingly tp preset peramaters. input from the 02 sensor is not monitored during open loop (ie warm up, before 02 is hot enough to read properly)

during closed loop mode, the pcm monitors 02 input to adjust mixture/timing to obtain a perfect 14.5 to 14.9 air/fuel ratio by changing the injector pulse width

Unless your having a custom PCM built, it is not recomended to disconnect any sensors other than the after cat 02!

PCM inputs...........
alternator output
battery voltage
power ground
signal ground
a/c on, and select
auto shutoff
brake switch
overdrive overide
park/nuetral switch
cruise controll
vehicle speed sensor
igniition circuit
intake manifold air sensor
engine coolant temp sensor
MAP sensor
oxegen sensor(s)
crankshaft sensor
DRB scanner
camshaft position sensor
throttle position sensor
sensor return
PCM CONTROLL (output)
tachometer
cruise controll
DRB scanner
A/C clutch
idle speed controll (IAC)
emergency shut down
alternator field (voltage regulating)
check engine light
EGR transducer
injectors
fuel pump
coil
evaporator purge solenoid

now, for the computer nerd stuff!!!

the pcm is pre-programed microproccesor digital computer, and can change its programing to meet certain operating conditions. (what ever that means)
high performance pcm's are available thrue mopar performance, and can dramaticly increase HP and torque if used with hi po exaust, intake mods, camshatf, ect.

[TK]

A R/T camshaft will also work well with your other modifications, it is used in factory 360's like in the dakota R/T, and they haul a$$!!
PN#5249549 adv duration(260-264) overlap(55 degrees)
109 centerline .458/.467 lift you can "hear" this cam, i have one in my 95 5.2 the low end stays about the same, but at about 3000, she comes to life! many times i have ran with a stock 360 to 50-55 and then walked off from it!

[rumblefish360]

DW, ever seen a dyno between hi flow cats and stock. You would not be saying what you did if you did.

[dwc43]

Yes, I have seen and made some of them and they stink to high heaven over a good header system with the proper pipe size, X pipe and mufflers. Cats are a restriction no matter how you look at and that's what your trying to reduce to get more exhuast flow and at a faster exit speed to make more torque and power.

[TK]

there are some good cats out there, but they have a problem, and a good thing too.
A high flow cat can flow, and make the same power as a non cat exaust, if its put on a dyno, like some of us have one in our back pocket. heres why they are a pain,
they take a high velocity (yes velocity, works on the exaust too) pipe, and ruin it before the exaust pulses equalize. they ruin it by spreading the air and slowing it down, then having to speed it back up out the other side. this causes back pressure, wich is usually not helpfull. so, the only way to stop this would be to put the X pipe before the cat? HMMMMMM?

now, the good side, the cat keeps the air hotter, and, hot air will travel faster cause it wieghs less than cold air, and doesnt take as much effort to push, but, you need a bigger pipe to move it.

so, i really think that either way, your going to get performance out of it, probably the same, but, in all reality, the cat is like pushing the exaust thrue another muffler, wich is not desired.

this is my oppinion.

[dwc43]

You also forgot to mention reverbaration caused by the cat that can send spent gasses back into the cylinder while the exhuast valve is still open. That contaminates the incomming fuel air charge and you loose power. The cats wont work after the X pipe cause they wont reach 600+ * that far away from the engine.

[GS -]

Hey guys this is pretty old info, but good none the less. Dodgetkboy, that triangle (turtle?) in a beerbarrel intake is funny as hell.

[TK]

Originally Posted by GS -

Hey guys this is pretty old info, but good none the less. Dodgetkboy, that triangle (turtle?) in a beerbarrel intake is funny as hell.

explain.???

or, share your vast knowledge of magnum intakes! thats what this thread is for!

[TK]

Dick? how do i delete a thread i started?

[dwc43]

Originally Posted by dodgetkboy78

Dick? how do i delete a thread i started?

Shoot, don't give up on it now !!

[TK]

Originally Posted by dwc43

Shoot, don't give up on it now !!

well, geez! ive been starin at a intake and talking with my bud who does engines for a living, and we think the hump with the angle cut ports might be the ticket. these manifolds have a lot of dead air space, and need some filling, then, on here, someone who obviously knows more than me makes fun of the idea, instead of sharing something usefull, since he sais this info is outdated, that means all 30,000 people who are members of this chat already know right? mmhmm. and i had a bad day, and it P'd me O!
i see he has a single plane manifold on his, wich would be the obviouse choice for going fast, but would not tow for sh-t, just had a bad day, im over it.

[Dick]

Originally Posted by dodgetkboy78

Dick? how do i delete a thread i started?

Go to your first post, the one you started the thread with. On the right side of the screen is an EDIT button, next to the QUOTE button.

Click the EDIT button. The next screen you see will be a box with two buttons. Select the one that says DELETE and then scroll down a little and click the DETETE button. No need to fill out the stuff about why. Just do it.

Which thread do you want to scrub and why?

[Dick]

Originally Posted by dodgetkboy78

someone who obviously knows more than me makes fun of the idea, instead of sharing something usefull, since he sais this info is outdated, that means all 30,000 people who are members of this chat already know right?

TK, I follow most of your posts and you seem to have a huge amount of knowledge, for your age, about so many aspects of automotive systems. Sometimes I wonder if you went to school, like other kids, or your mom dropped you off at the wrecking yard every day and the owner said "git er done".

That being said, I admire your gusto and your ability to say what you think and back it up with your experience. You definitely grew some big ones at an early age.

Some people with more experience, knowledge, training or age might challenge you. They may be right or they may be wrong. You can't let that get to you.

But, everytime you get challenged, consider that maybe the other view is valid, at least as valid as yours. If nothing else, remember what they said and try it someday. Draw your own conclusion from your own results.

The thread you started about the Magnum buildup was an enormous task, much bigger than most people would ever want to undertake. Even Rumblefish was cautious about such a task.

At this point, maybe you want to reconsider the whole idea. If you wanted to stop the thread or delete it, nobody would blame you. However, if you want to go on, for what it's worth, I would support your decision.

It takes a lot of courage to do what you did. Hold your head up......you have nothing to be ashamed of.

[Witty1]

can you throw up some pictures of the inside of the intake? Never looked in one, and would like to see what you're talking about.

[TK]

Originally Posted by Dick

TK, I follow most of your posts and you seem to have a huge amount of knowledge, for your age, about so many aspects of automotive systems. Sometimes I wonder if you went to school, like other kids, or your mom dropped you off at the wrecking yard every day and the owner said "git er done".

That being said, I admire your gusto and your ability to say what you think and back it up with your experience. You definitely grew some big ones at an early age.

Some people with more experience, knowledge, training or age might challenge you. They may be right or they may be wrong. You can't let that get to you.

But, everytime you get challenged, consider that maybe the other view is valid, at least as valid as yours. If nothing else, remember what they said and try it someday. Draw your own conclusion from your own results.

The thread you started about the Magnum buildup was an enormous task, much bigger than most people would ever want to undertake. Even Rumblefish was cautious about such a task.

At this point, maybe you want to reconsider the whole idea. If you wanted to stop the thread or delete it, nobody would blame you. However, if you want to go on, for what it's worth, I would support your decision.

It takes a lot of courage to do what you did. Hold your head up......you have nothing to be ashamed of.

well, i went to school, in elementry i walked across the road to the airport to help our family friend who was an airplane mechanic, i took apart and cleaned/sanded airplane parts, even put some back together (like my dads plane), then, in jr high, till 10th grade, i worked at a polaris shop in the winter, and built fences in the summer, after 2 years i went to polaris school, then, the winter of my 10th grade, i quit school, got my GED, and went to diesel tech/welding school in seward AK. in the meantime, i always had trucks/cars/wheelers/snowmachines, and fixed everything. my dad is a mechanic/welder, i have memories when i was a kid of pouring bearings, and building clutch fingers for D-8's, seems we just do fences for a living. my buddies all were like me, instead of driving rice, we had big trucks, fast cars, and fun fun fun! i have built lots of mud trucks, i was always the motor guy, seemed like i always had a couple motors of my buddies going at a time, and some military duece and a half cut apart in my dads way. well, i got married, adn we just moved out of my house in big lake, it had a 30 by 36 shop, now im going crazy!!!!!
i will go on! it just pissed me off when someone said it was a dumb idea, and then didnt say why. no biggie, i just wish GS would come back and tell us what he knows!. me and dwc had a prety good start, maybe if we keep going, in the end we'll write a new thread and delete this one after re-compiling it. also, dick, i know you have some idears, you have a ram, so lets hear em!

[TK]

Originally Posted by Witty1

can you throw up some pictures of the inside of the intake? Never looked in one, and would like to see what you're talking about.

Witty1, i dont have a dig cam yet, i just got a computer 4 months ago, but, here.........http://rds.yahoo.com/S=2766679/K=hug...esengines.com/
look under induction/magnum intakes and there is a good pic. i found this after i posted the hump idea, sounds like they got it figured out.

[dwc43]

Try this tk, open this thread and then open another window and start another thread. Use the copy and paste to take your post and mine post and just put them in one post, but include the date and name of each and keep them seperated just like we started them. Then delete the original thread that got screwed up and we can take off from there. I can't wait till we get past the drive line and head for the chassis.

[TK]

um, ok, ill syatr tnight!

[dwc43]

Originally Posted by dodgetkboy78

um, ok, ill syatr tnight!

If you dont want to, I can do it.

[TK]

ok! get on it turkey! take the credit! see if i care! (joking)

[TK]

OK! there is a new thread started by me cut n pasting this one, we need to argue on this thread, and ill cut n past the uaable info there when you say so (pm, or just write it on the bottom of your reply) so, now that we have a argue thread, lets hear some idea's, questions, and answers!!! feel free to ask questions too, we might be able to get new idea's or info for the other thread! :flip:

[GS -]

dodgetkboy78, hang in there...did not mean to hurt your feelings. I thought you meant putting a turtle (triangle?) in a beerbarrel intake which is what we put in an M1. Its a small pyramid that fills the plenum volume. They are way to small to do the old beerbarrel any good. If you mean filling up the space in the intake your right, because the beerbarrel has way to much plenum space. That being said, you just have to make up your mind if you want to tow or have a faster truck or a little of both. The problem is you usually have to tune for one or the other unless you supercharge.

Originally Posted by dodgetkboy78

explain.???

or, share your vast knowledge of magnum intakes! thats what this thread is for!

[TK]

im over it! anyway, the turtle is a good idea, i think, were gonna try it, my manifold (stock) already has the angle cut runners. that made a difference, but needs more. hughes has some manifold mods, but not like this, they fiulled in the top, probably with plastic or something.
the only reason i even considered it is because of the towing issue, for going fast, the single M1 is the ticket fro sure. my favorite intake for the street car is a port o sonic, if worked over properly, can out perform a M1, or any other in my oppinion, and we do the same thig to them, a little triangle.the guy the magnum is for is having a hard time coming up with money, so it might be awhile bfore i get to mess with it. so we'll come back to it unles someone wants to try it.now, ehat ya got to go fast fer these rams??? dwc wants to speed it up to get to chassis!

[GS -]

Let us know how it turns out. A much larger turtle to direct air flow and fill some volume would be a good experiment. I really liked all that torque that the long runners in the beerbarrel gave you, maybe you can find a sweet spot that will give you and increase of both torque and hp, but it might be hard to find.

Originally Posted by dodgetkboy78

im over it! anyway, the turtle is a good idea, i think, were gonna try it, my manifold (stock) already has the angle cut runners. that made a difference, but needs more. hughes has some manifold mods, but not like this, they fiulled in the top, probably with plastic or something.
the only reason i even considered it is because of the towing issue, for going fast, the single M1 is the ticket fro sure. my favorite intake for the street car is a port o sonic, if worked over properly, can out perform a M1, or any other in my oppinion, and we do the same thig to them, a little triangle.the guy the magnum is for is having a hard time coming up with money, so it might be awhile bfore i get to mess with it. so we'll come back to it unles someone wants to try it.now, ehat ya got to go fast fer these rams??? dwc wants to speed it up to get to chassis!

[dwc43]

Lets get back on topic. Another good bolt on for an HP increase is to add some March underdrive pulleys. Delete your stock fan for a Spal electric fan. For a more street strip set up install an electric water pump and aluminum rad. The aluminum rad will do two things for ya. It cools better, and weighs less. Anything that you do to reduce weight, makes the engine work less. Rule of thumb is a 100 weight reduction is worth a tenth in a 1/4 mile run.