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Old 11-11-2002, 11:43 PM
Bigfoot Bigfoot is offline
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: Edmonton/Alberta
Posts: 178
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Just a couple of points I want to get clear because I am new to the thermoquad. You said the following:

f)screw the center slot in the metering rod top counter-clockwise while you push down lightly(after assembly of the carb)
and the piston will keep dropping down; when it stops dropping
down, turn the adjuster screw slot cockwise and just as the piston starts up, turn the adjuster slot 1 full turn to correctly adjust the tree,
g)with the choke pull-off plunger pushed in, adjust the air door by pushing down on one of the air door dimples; the drop before tension on the air door should be .100" for a cammed up engine and .180" on a mild engine or heavy vehicle(over 3,400 lbs).
This is the very BEST method for "dialing-in" the 2ndary air door.
h)for a mild engine, drill the accelerator pump nozzle ids to .031"
and for a more radical engine, start at about .034".

Point "F" when you adjust the screw this just adjusts how far the needles come out of the jets when the throttle cam is raising the metering rod. So it isn't adjusting the air/fuel ratio, just how much gas volume is allowed into the engine?

Points "G + H" after playing around for nearly two hours one night trying to get my car to lauch without the dreaded "fall on your face and then go routine" it was ok but not great. The next day it was back to the same problem. I played with the secondary door tightness and noticed that after about 2 turns ccw it stopped making any difference no matter how tightly I wound the spring. Is the root of my problem the size of the nozzle ids and I need to expand it to as you recommed .031" and then play with the secondary door again? I am running a 5th ave. 318 mild engine with the smaller thermoquad.

Will the bigger thermoquad make any noticable difference to a 318? I have heard from some people that the bigger ones should be used on 360's and up were as the smaller ones are for 318's.
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