Thanks Trat for answering my question and others here on Mopar Chat.I beleve the 108" unibody rule was to keep camaro's and firebird's out of the class.I think it's great that IMCA will allow A-body's now in Hobby Stock.I'm planning to build a Hobby in the near future,been gathering info. Just got this computer outfit a couple of months ago for the kids,I've been using it up , already fried the printer.I run a 67' Barracuda in Street Stock with 74'Duster front suspension. I race Park Jefferson,it's 1/2 mile dirt,about 15 deg banking.The car is ok on wet or dry,but tacky,it pushes in the middle after it takes a set and you pick up the throttle.The car is 3300#,50%rear,52%left and 48%cross,1.170 bars,180#leaf-L,200#leaf-R,ride height is 7", 8" wheels,265Mc,Caster;R +6,L +2 Camber; R -3,L +2 , toe out 1/8". Is your front end as factory produced or do you move anything around? Do you think production geometry is ok? Also does anyone understand the Basic Race Car Chassis Set-Up For Short Ovals section in the Oval Track Mannual ? It talks about spring combinations and using the swaybar chart on the next page.What does #24Lt./#25Rt.mean? How do you find the spring rates?What is 1.140/1.10 #14/#15 ? Why is the bigger bar on the left? Who do you contact that understands this ?Is it a lost cause trying to find out? Certinlly this information was gathered through research by engineers? Calling the tech line seems to be a waste of time,if you get through they don't know much.
What baseline setup would any readers start out with? Then what would be adjusted to set car for muddy heat race and then to tacky feature? What about dry slick feature with a little moisture at the top ?
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