Powermaster Alt.{long}

[Jhnybgd]

Hi all,I really love my old cars,but sometimes these nagging problems really chaps my --- well you know .I have always tried to install the best parts I can afford when upgrading or replacing parts on my RR,hence the reason of purchasing a Powermaster alternator.When I redid the car I had to go to an electric fuel pump and went with twin cooling fans on the alum.rad.These are the only"added" electrical draws to the system.The original alt. was a 60 amp chrysler that worked fine except at Idle when the fans would come on it would drop to 11.3 on my volt meter.So I called powertech hot line and talked with them on a cure.They informed me to check the bulkhead connections for corrosion etc,etc.I have had all the wiring out of the car and everything is in very good condition,all connections were cleaned and dielectric grease applied before reconnection{I am a John Deere Ag field tech--I know corrosion }so I told the that was not a problem and I have also measured the amps drawn by each component,Fans draw 15.3 amps,pump 7 amps,ign.and rest of car with lights on and all accesories on {lights,fans,pump,radio,etc}the whole car is 36 amps draw.After this powermaster recommended thier 70 amp chrysler unit and said it should put plenty of amps out even at idle to run everyting,sounded a little small but they are the experts.I bought the alt.chromed and all{beutiful product}installed with a new constant output M.P regulator LSS output at idle sucks.with lights and pump only no fans or radio output drops to12.3-7.I ran for 2 years with this because it charges good above 1000 rpm tach speed{I have also checked pulley ratios and they are within specs}Within those 2 years I emailed powermaster twice about the problem at idle--both times I was informed this alt. was too small ,and i would need the 1 wire upgrade GM style 140amp unit.Well I have done a lot of work to the car moved the battery to trunk,2/0 cable to starter new fuel lines 8 gauge charge wire etc and this end all 140 amp alt. which PM reccommended.Well this thing charges its butt of at idle with all acc. going its at 13.2 volts lights nice and bright all is good,until the cooling fan on the alt comes apart cruising down the road scratching the underside of my hood tearing up the belt and ruining a good night!I read the literature sent by PM and once again rechecking my pulley ratio's according to thier formula and my measuring this alt should be good to 18000rpm which is 6300rpm at the crank,I have never went above 5500rpm.Upon inspection of the fan which has lost a blade it is very thin metal,I ordered a fan for a delco alt. on a 4440 JohnDeere through work,it is twice as thick as the one supplied with the PM alt.I installed the new fan and everthing was fine.Last night while cruising to dinner I noticed the lights dimming at a red light look down and see my volt gauge at 12-12.5 stopped checked the belt all is ok but the alt. now will not go above 12.5 even at 2000 rpm cruise.I have not contacted PM as I am sure thy will say it is something I have done which may be true but I do not think so.I guess I will have to send it back to PM and be with out my car for a month while I fight them for a replacement.Sorry for crying on y'alls shoulder but after such a long fight it's depressing when I have spent very good money on these products and am not pleased at all.Sorry so long and thanks for the patience,John
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1 75 RR 5.9 magnum,727,Intense blue w/ white stripes.

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[John Kunkel]

Are the higher amp draw items like the fans, lights and fuel pump drawing their power through the ammeter or are they powered directly from the battery through relays? Even with relatively clean bulkhead connectors you might be picking up a lot of resistance there and at the ammeter.

You might consider eliminating the ammeter and the associated bulkhead connectors:

http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...p-gauges.shtml

[ehostler]

I don't get why you went to PM in the first place. You should have just gone with a current ND alt that is pushing 140 AMPs. It is found in the Dodge Ram, Dakota, and Durango.

The best part, if it should ever fail, a direct replacement is available at almost any auto parts store or Dodge dealership. If the PM should fail, you have to deal with their crap and then send it back to them for a replacement.

[Jhnybgd]

Hi guys,thanks for the replies.
John the fans and pump are on dedicated circuits with thier own fuse block and relays.The lights are through the factory wiring,although I have been thinking of putting the lights {head}on thier own relay also.My car has a charge lamp not an ammeter,I added a voltmeter.

Ehostler,I would have gone the JY alt route except I could not find Vbelt pulleys for the late model alt.the local alt.shop just looked at me likeI had 2 more heads.Yeah I dont look forward to dealing with anybody over the phone especially when I need something from them.