Main Cap Girdles

[djswwg]

Has anyone used the Hughes Engines Main girdle/Stud kit? It's a few bucks cheaper than the Gears and Rears unit but I'm wondering about quality. I've used the G/R's one with success, and they fit real good with a minimum of "massaging". Thanks....................djs

[Mrmopartech]

the girdels help with keeeping the block straight and true in very high levels of HP,of over 700HP.Now if its a street motor,its not going to do much if you are only making less than 600HP.So first lets find out what level of power you want from your motor and the fuel you intend to use with it,Mrmopartech

[djswwg]

I know exactly what they do, my question is have you used the Hughes Engines kit? Thanks......djs

[DartGT66]

I have learnt not to rely on Hughes performnces advertising. They have some good products, but their advertising department isn't as much worried about facts than it is about sales.
I would, and will, just use the tried and true aluminum main caps in high performance applicaions, or if that isn't enough, aftermarket blocks. The girdle isn't a new invention, and according to some people that have pushed the limits of the stock block like Monte Smith, it doesn't cure the illness. Again according to him, aluminum caps even if not removing the main cap walk completely, but it helps the block survive. A good main girdle, and I have actually seen only one so far made by Best Machine (3/4" thick attching solidly in to the block with separate bolts + custom main caps), may keep the caps intact with their mating surfaces, but the block itself can still crack.

[djswwg]

Thanks Dart, anyone else have any experience with these girdles?.............djs

[23T-Wedge]

Dart,
I've racked my brain for months trying to remember who made that girdle, thanks for the reminder, it's defiinitely a slick piece. Do you have a link for their web-site?

[kamstra]

CRE also make a girdle for mopars. You can reach CRE at (361) 522-2246 i think.

Mancini sells them too. They sell their own and hughes.
http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/400440blgi.html

[DartGT66]

http://www.bestmachineracing.com/
When the CRE's girdle came oput, I started asking about some things and got some answers I have mantioned before, and also got pics of the best machine girdle set up. But that thing most likely is not in the 400$ range. What I initially thought was a bit odd with these "sandwich girdles" is, that they are not really tied solidly in to the block. They are attached with the same bolts as the oil pan, and have a relatively thick and soft gasket (or a couple of them with windage tray) in between. And of course you have to have the extra 3/8" oil pan clearance, and don't forget to adjust the oil pick up. I have not used girdles, but there are a lot of people who has and seem to be happy with them. I run five years with a street & strip RB that made around 750 hp (781 hp dynoed with a new block and 30 more cubic inches). I bought hte old race engine used, and the main caps had walked quite a lot. I detuned it for the street, replaced the mr gasket studs with ARP studs and put the engine back together. After one year of driving, I pulled the oil pan and checked the main caps. They had walked again, just like before. After that, I didn't pay attention to that and drove four years with the engine before finally selling it after a lifter failure. The block is still in use, now as a 6/71 blown 440. My 451 also had some main cap movement in a 650 hp mode. I built that over 10 years ago and it has seen about 30000 miles and hundreds of runs down the strip. Today, the engine was last dynoed at 713 hp and is still going strong in a D100 pick up running mid 10's. These were all pump gas engines with stock main caps. In our 499 B1 engine we used aluminum caps, and it has worked great for four years. Haven't taken is apart yet though.

[toad490]

I bought a Gears and Rears girdle and one from Johnsons Race Cars in Winnipeg Manitobia. The girdles are pretty much identical, the G&R girdle had a slot cut in it below the timing chain, I guess its for oil drain back, and the other didn't. Both kits used ARP studs & nuts. The only real differences are in the shims and the material of the girdle, G&R have a much better selection of shims than the Johnson, but they are just arbor shims and can be found pretty easly. The other difference is the Johnson girdle is made out of tool steel the G&R isn't, both are 3/8" thick.
I don't think there's much difference in most of the girdles out there and if they use ARP or equal hardware I don't see much difference in them. I kept the Johnson girdle and resold the G&R, only because I thought I'd get more for the G&R than for a relatively unkown girdle.
I used Indy aluminum main caps and had the bottom rail and caps decked so there'll be a interference fit between the caps and girdle. I'm also having the girdle O ringed and I'm thinking of welding the windage tray to the girdle to get away from too many gaskets (holes drilled for access to the studs) and just so all bases are covered, I also filled the block to the bottom of the ring travel.
The block is at the machine shop right now, when I get it back I'll post some pitures if anybody's interested.

[kamstra]

Good info Dart and Toad.

Toad please post picture and your combo, Love to see it.