brake ??

[Crank]

why is the brake line looped sevaral times next to the booster ,is their a reason for this?plus wear can i buy a roll of brake line because i'm going to reroute all the lines and try to hide them. it looks like the factory just threw them in and it looks like crap.i wish i could move the booster too but i don't now ware to put it,it sticks out like a sore thum.i'm going to hide everything i can in the engine compartment.

[Shaun]

I have no idea why the line coils before the master cylinder-extra?
Summit has rolls of hard brake lines in various sizes and colors.
Shaun

[Crank]

i didn't now thay made diferent colors? i was leaning towards stainless.

[DAHEMIKOTA]

Originally Posted by Crank

why is the brake line looped sevaral times next to the booster ,is their a reason for this?plus wear can i buy a roll of brake line because i'm going to reroute all the lines and try to hide them. it looks like the factory just threw them in and it looks like crap.i wish i could move the booster too but i don't now ware to put it,it sticks out like a sore thum.i'm going to hide everything i can in the engine compartment.

That is so the break line does not break at the fitting during bodyflex / vibration when driving. Dan

[ehostler]

You can get brake line at your local auto parts store.

[B1owner]

Originally Posted by DAHEMIKOTA

That is so the break line does not break at the fitting during bodyflex / vibration when driving. Dan

Yep, This is exactly why the factory does it. I do the same with my copper oil pressure line before it goes into the block.

[dodger1]

Crank, I just did this job. Assuming you've got a flaring tool that will make a double flare, the rest is easy but picky. I bought pre-cut lengths for the 2 rear axle pieces, an OEM rear flex brake hose, a handful of appropriate fittings (be sure to get STEEL not brass) and a 25 foot coil of 3/16" steel (not stainless) all from my local autoparts store. Be sure to retain the odd-sized master cyl fittings if you need to replace those short coiled bits as the parts store won't have those. (I kept my front lines and m/c lines because they were O.K.) I took the main front-rear line off the car, then laid the new line out beside it and bent it to mimic the shape. Take your time with this part - it'll be worth it. It went back in OK, and I only needed to fiddle the bends a bit to make it all fit. You could ditch the booster and get the M/P adapter and adjustable pushrod if you want more space or cleaner looks. If you have an old 2-bolt m/c you won't need the adapter. My cost was under $75 and a good chunk of that was for the flex line. I also picked up a handful of rubber-coated clamps to replace the corroded OEM ones holding the main line to the frame. Have fun!

[Crank]

thanks for all the good information guy's.dodger 1 you said you got 25ft coil from your local auto parts store witch one all i ever seen is 4 or 5 foot long.i would rather use stainless but then the car wont see rain or winter ,i have all the tools and plenty of time .nothing is going back on the car unless its crome ,painted or polished .

[ehostler]

You have to go to the counter and ask for the roll. They keep it in the back.

[cageman]

I just bought some brake lines at Napa the other day, and they had a black coated section of brake lines, I bought a 41 incher and it bent nice. I think I will go this route the next vehicle I do, a littl more expensive though.
I think the coil is so the air in the brake fluid doesnt go past the first coil and then it will easily climb up into the master, and I think it is indeed for vibration purposes too.