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#1
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Something went way south last night
On the even bank there is a miss now. Was out cruising around and go on it hard but shifted around 5500 in first and second and backed off and eased into 4th. Noticed a sort of bloop bloop sound on the passenger side as soon as it was in 4th. No smoke. Took the valve cover off and no broken springs, pushrods or valves. Plug wires are all tight and it doesn't sound like an electrical miss. I guess I get to pull the head this weekend and look inside. Or check compression first, but I think the head has to come off either way. The engine is similar to the older 380 crate motor. Maybe more similar than I thought?
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#2
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Check those spark plugs carefully when you pull them for a compression check, maybe you fouled a couple when you made the power run. Man I hate to hear the word Mopar crate engine, two 360 crate short blocks in less than 5000 miles.
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#3
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It tends to foul the plugs if I let it sit and idle a long time. It has specs similar to a crate engine but the heads and bottom end were done by people I trust, but I did final assembly.
My hope is that one of the plugs went bad or something, without it spilling a bunch of oil smoke I am at least a little hopeful it isn't as bad as I think. 8000+ miles is all I have on it. Lot's of hard miles though since it really is just a toy. I'll pull the plugs and check them all. The sound is similar to one I heard with a broken valve, but worse. |
#4
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Do a compression and/or leakdown test to make sure the valve are seating.
I over reved my 383 years ago and just slightly bent two valves. I don't think that is your problem if you only went to 5500 RPM, but it's worth checking. I would double check the electrical, maybe swap plug wires, check cap and rotor, pickup, etc. |
#5
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Use a non contact temp reader to pinpoint the offending cylinder (s). Point at the manifold (header) where it exits the head and pull the trigger, the missing cylinder (s) will be considerably cooler than the normal ones. Saves time and burned fingers and won't take the curl out of your hair.
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#6
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Take A Look For Any Cats Or Dogs Stamped On The Low Part Of The Car... Hehehehe, I'm Kiding. Myabe Was Just The Exaust Manifold That Went A Little Off.
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#7
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I don't have a temp gun, but thought about pulling plug wires off the cap to see which one didn't make a difference. I suppose I could spritz water on the header too. If it is in the head I won't feel as bad. If it is the bottom, well, I guess that block sitting on the stand will be put to use when I get some extra cash.
Joe, if I had hit an animal there would be fiberglass everywhere. |
#8
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Had one do that once with a set of KB pistons. Checked, and a plug was smacked shut. THe crown of #6 was coming apart. Fun. Not. :-( PCRMIke
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#9
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Hey, the water works too. A shot from your spray bottle will vaporize almost instantly on a good cyl and will stay wet for a jiffy on the offending one. Pulling wires is iffy on a lumpy cammed engine but will work. USE SISSY PLIERS! A hot ignition will get your undivided attention, trust me on this one.
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#10
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Well, a compression test showed #6 was higher than a few pounds than the other seven holes. Used a screw in type tester so it should be relatively accurate. The car lit right off (on accident) when I cranked it with the valve cover off to move the rockers a bit because one seemed a little different before the compression test. It did not sound like it was missing then and I was on the passenger side when I was cranking and watching the rockers. So, I have good fuel and compression is such it shouldn't miss.
After the compression test, I have no fire. The Jacobs box says input is fine, but something bad on the output. I wonder if it is the coil gone bad now. The old coil I could crank with the coil to dizzy wire unplugged. Hmmm. On that hot ingition note: A friend was helping me one day and I had to move the car. I had the Carter AFB on at the time and the fuel would evaporate out (I didn't know it at the time though) and I was cranking and it wouldn't start. He pulled the coil wire off the dizzy just as I turned the key off and it discharged through him and I got shocked through the fiberglass through him. He felt it through his arm and foot though. |
#11
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MSD shocks are the best, its like a tazer...and you cant let go of the wire!
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#12
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I tell you what, it hurt me and I wasn't the one holding the wire. I was surprised how well fiberglass conducts.
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#13
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If you want real fun, hand somebody a magneto and have them spin the shaft while holding it by the cap. Talk about curling hair!
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#14
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OK, I hooked up the oem ignition and still no spark. Any way to check the magnetic trigger? It has 356 ohms resistance. I did as the manual said and put the coil wire near a ground and grounded the coil, but nothing. It did disharge throught the coil when I turned the key off. I bypassed the balast resistor and still no joy.
Better yet, anyone want a 1971 911 project and a Cobra replica that won't start? |
#15
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Jump the 2 wires that go to the mag.distributor with a piece of wire, itll emulate the reluctor flying past the magnetic trigger and you should get a spark if the ECU and coil are still good.
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#16
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Been there, I was messing with an old Vertex off a sellers table and turned the shaft, I almost dropped the thing, but caught it and promptly put it down, YEEOW!
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#17
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Drag the exposed side of the ign. end of the 2 wire dist. connector on bare metal and you should get multiple sparks from the coil wire. This will check all components except for the p/u coil. As has been posted don't hang on to the wire when the switch is turned off. The Fairbanks-Morse mag. on my racebike would nearly take your arm off when it was running, trust me.
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#18
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OK, that worked with the oem ignition hooked up but no joy on the Jacobs. I'll leave the orange box for now and look at the bloop, bloop sound, though when it started with the orange box it did not seem to miss. I wonder if the Jacobs was the problem the whole time.
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#19
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Haven't been able to get on for a while with the move, but the orange box is working OK for now. I guess a call to Don to get one of his boxes is next on the list. I don't like the new Jacob's design and they don't think they can fix the old one. I guess the Jacobs is the fault here.
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#20
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Thanks for the update. I have heard several bad things about the Jacobs units being bad out of the box. Don't have any personal experience tho so take that for what it's worth! Glad you're back up and running.
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#21
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I have a Jacobs and like it but it likes to eat coils, and it is so hot I couldn't even run it with the 2bl carb it kept pre igniting. I spoke to the folks at mr gasket and they said to gap my plugs out to 40K. You might also want to look at your pick up gap. I think (no expert) the stock ECU is more sympathetic to a improper gap size. You might want to check your gap, plugs, wires from whaming the throttle mabye a header burn from engine movement. I know the pro street I have is so freaken hot any wire coating loss means arching. Its a pain but the juice is worth it. Its even a little to warm for the 4bl I just put on!!! Hope this helps.
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#22
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Quality of Jacobs went down hil after Dr. Jacobs sold the product line to some cheap company. The quality came back up, when they sold the line to another name brand company.
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