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#1
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mallory ignition??????
Hi, I am working on a 383 that has sat for many years. I have pulled the heads, added a thermoquad, headers, and now I am working on the ignition. should I use a MP electronic ignition, or a mallory unilite (which I already have ) and if I use the Unilite, how do I wire it up? Do I need a box?
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#2
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I've heard and seen nothing but bad things about the unilite. A friend of mine bought one from another friend that we both knew. IT ate those photo cells quite regular and they are exspensive. I would toss it in the trash.
I would either use your stock Mopar ECU and dist. set up or get an MSD box to use with your Mopar dist. if you want the best no hassle set ups. |
#3
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I agree with DW on this one, except for one thing......dont throw it in the trash, put it on ebay, someone will buy it.
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#4
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I thought about that, but your putting the problem off on another Mopar guy. I just could not do it.
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#5
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I never had any problems with my old unilite. I ran it for about 3 years, in 2 different vehicles. The optical module can be sensative to voltage. Mallory does have a supressor that goes in-line with the power lead, to protect it.
For the money, I would go with the FBO ignition system. |
#6
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Ever notice how much good press FBO gets on this site vs. the biggies like Mallory? I have no experience with FBO products but the feedback here is so uniformly positive that I would certainly give them first refusal on any ignition changes. Gotta be good product with support like that! That said, I have run a Mallory box (MSD-clone) with my stock Mopar (jobber-reman) electronic distributor with no issues for 4 years now, for what that's worth.
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#7
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Quote:
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#8
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You can send me the Mallory, I've been running one for 10 years with no problems at all, but I just use it to trigger an MDS6AL box, so only a small current (load) goes through the Mallorys' electronic module.
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#9
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Quote:
I would have to disagree with DWC43 comment on problems with Unilites simply because I see more of those distributors on all brands of engines than any other after market distributor and have never heard anyone complain about them. You can download the installation instructions from the Mallory Web page. |
#10
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Back when I worked for Summit Racing when someone wanted a Unilite we were instructed to try to sell the surge protector with them. We would not guarantee a unit unless they did so. Most of the guys didn't bother cause it took some time and effort to do the explaining and they didn't care about returns. I always tried to help the customer since I know how I feel when I get short changed on service. Anyway, the upshot is either get the protector or use a box so there's no heavy current going thru the dist. If this is done it is a very good unit.
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#11
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go on e bay and buy a ready to run procomp distributor, same thing as a msd their about $150 part number is 8027, ive had 2 and they are kick ass , i just switched to a procomp from a unilite and man i can really feel the dif , their around $150 max or you buy a hole kit with box and coil for about $325 max http://www.procompelectronics.com/ call them up and see if they sael them or direct you to a seller
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#12
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here is a link on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Plymo...temZ8077095007
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#13
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First time I have heard of pro-comp. Their ignition boxes and coil look almost exactly like the Crane components.
Accel also has a self contained "Street Billet" and the "Billetproof" Distributors. I don't know what the difference is between the Street Billet and Billetproof distributors, but they use the same electronics module, so output should be the same. On my 1969 Coronet R/T convertible, I did not want to mess with the original point distributor, but also did not want to have to re-wire the car for the Mopar type electronic distributor, So I installed the Accel Billetproof distributor about four years ago, and it works great! The wiring is really simple, just three wires. One goes to ground, one to the coil positive, and the last to the coil negative. It uses full power to the coil (no ballast resistor), so I just removed the connectors from the ballast resistor, installed a peice of wire between the terminals of the ballast resistor (through the terminal holes) and put the ballast resistor connectors back on to hold the bypass wire. The wiring looks pretty much stock, unless you look really close, and swapping back to the original distributor (for originality) is really easy. As for reliability, No problems at all, and I'm still using the old point type voltage regulator too. |
#14
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ive had great luck with the procomp ignition and for the price you cant beat it , and for $100 for a distributor is a pretty good price
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