Bored Or Not Bored???

[JOE66]

HEY GUYS, I ALREADY MADE MY DESISSION ON PURCHASING MY STROKER KIT. THE PISTONS WILL COME SIZED TO FIT A 0.030 OVER BORE. I HEAVEN'T PURCHASED THE BLOCK, WHAT'S THE BEST CHOICE TO GET IT?? standard?, or 0.030 over-bored already? I have two choices but I don't know what's best any suggestions?? Thanks every one.
By the way is an RB block. thanks.

[Dick]

Originally Posted by JOE66

HEY GUYS, I ALREADY MADE MY DESISSION ON PURCHASING MY STROKER KIT. THE PISTONS WILL COME SIZED TO FIT A 0.030 OVER BORE. I HEAVEN'T PURCHASED THE BLOCK, WHAT'S THE BEST CHOICE TO GET IT?? standard?, or 0.030 over-bored already? I have two choices but I don't know what's best any suggestions?? Thanks every one.
By the way is an RB block. thanks.

If the .030 block has never been used since it was bored, (unlikely) then it should be OK. If it has been run and the cylinders need surfacing more than just a light hone, your .030 over pistons probably won't work. You should also pay attention to the main bearing saddles and the top surfaces of the block. If it was bored, a good shop would probably have gone through it and trued up what needed alignment.

My thoughts would be that the block be reconditioned before assembly anyway and pistons sized accordingly.

[dave571]

If you're buying a stroker kit, I would start with a virgin block.

Usually the block is bored to the size of the pistons you supply, then honed for clearance.

[ehostler]

Make sure that they use the proper torque plate.

[JOE66]

is there any special or specific torque plate that I can use? or any one can deal with something like this? and thanks for the comments

[nhdriver]

Originally Posted by dave571

If you're buying a stroker kit, I would start with a virgin block.

Usually the block is bored to the size of the pistons you supply, then honed for clearance.

A good used (not abused!) block (one which has never been rebored) is the best. Blocks that have had many warm up & cool down cycles (everyday use) make the best candidates for a rebuild,and also tend to hold the bore shape better.New blocks are not neccessarly the best to use. The heat up/cool down cycles naturally stress relieve the block. As ehostler said, a torque plate is a MUST if the shop you go to doesn't have one for your type of block, find one that does!

[JOE66]

Originally Posted by nhdriver

A good used (not abused!) block (one which has never been rebored) is the best. Blocks that have had many warm up & cool down cycles (everyday use) make the best candidates for a rebuild,and also tend to hold the bore shape better.New blocks are not neccessarly the best to use. The heat up/cool down cycles naturally stress relieve the block. As ehostler said, a torque plate is a MUST if the shop you go to doesn't have one for your type of block, find one that does!

so, a standard used block is better than a standard new (or virgin) block??

[nhdriver]

Yes, good used block is preferable to a brand new one. Virgin as in never overbored or blown up.

[dave571]

Originally Posted by JOE66

so, a standard used block is better than a standard new (or virgin) block??

As indicated...Virgin just means that it hasn't been bored. Still standard size.

A good used block is prefered. Offten a good used block that has been heated and cooled a bunch of times is referred to as a "seasoned" block.

[ehostler]

Originally Posted by JOE66

is there any special or specific torque plate that I can use? or any one can deal with something like this? and thanks for the comments

The machine shop should have the proper torque plate. If they do not, they don't do much (if any) MOPAR work. Find a shop that has one.

[George G. Leverette]

This just seems to be the reverse way to do things. First the block and have it checked to determine the bore, then the other parts. It appears that a deal too good to be true has surfaced. www.440source.com is within driving distance and have the information and parts you need.

[JOE66]

Originally Posted by George G. Leverette

This just seems to be the reverse way to do things. First the block and have it checked to determine the bore, then the other parts. It appears that a deal too good to be true has surfaced. www.440source.com is within driving distance and have the information and parts you need.

hey, how's it going? as a matter of fact, the question that I was going to ask today it was about the Standard 440 block assembled 12/14 casting date 9/21/71 that 440source is showing. I've made my decision in getting this 440>512 combo (4.250" stroke, 7.100" rods) with the 0.30 block. Also i'm including the Indy EZ heads.

[JOE66]

forgot to tell you that it's a "H 440" model year...