Water Neck

[Dart 65]

Is there a difference between the water necks of a small block versus that of a big block? I refer specifically to the spacing of the bolt holes.

The reason I ask is that I already installed my Edelbrock Performer 318/360 manifold and didn't realize that one of the bolts is broken inside the hole until I went to install the water neck. There is a second set of holes, set farther apart than the first, and I would much rather use them instead of pulling the intake. I'm even willing to use a Phord or GM part at this point, showing my desperation.

[rumblefish360]

The 2 set of water neck holes are for the change in style in 1980. Not big and small block differences. MP performance should have the neck or Mancini.
I'll look around my garage if ya want.

[Dart 65]

Yes, Rumble, if you have one, I'll buy it from you. I'm so busy right now that I don't have the time to research it. Thank you.

[rr69half6bbl]

Dart, you can spray some knocker loose on the brocken bolt and let it set a day then drill out the center and use an easy out bit . It should come right out.

[rumblefish360]

OK I'll take a look in a min. I'll give ya a PM if I find it.
They are avalable new from MoPar as well.

[daredevil]

Sometimes you candrill em and they break loose and you can reverse the drill and they twist right out if not an ezout will work but theres no reason to pull the intake

[rumblefish360]

Looked high and low. Only found the one atached to the late model intake. Sorry about that one.

[Dart 65]

No sweat. I have a local Mopar-only shop here that's almost guaranteed to have one. I'll check there tomorrow.

Daredevil: the bolt is broken off below the gasket surface. Marvel Mystery Oil might loosen it, but then I still have no way of getting it out. The Craftsman screw-outs won't work here. I only mentioned pulling the manifold in case it needs to go back to the shop should I not find the right water neck and need to take it to the shop to have the damned thing removed.

[72Challenger]

Dart65: daredevil isn't referring to Craftsman screw-outs, he's talking about easy-outs. They look sort of like a tapered drill bit, but with a reverse thread. You drill a hole into the center of the bolt stub, even if it's below the surface, and shove the easy-out into the hole. Twist it out, exactly what the machine shop will do if you take it to them.

[Dart 65]

Oh, I'm not familiar with easy outs. Do all hardware stores sell them? How about Sears?

It sounds like I need to get a set.

[Thunderstruck]

Be very careful using an easy out. They are mede of a very strong, but brittle steel. If you reef on them too hard they will break then you will be SOL.

there are several tips to sucessfully using an easy out. First, make sure you drill the hole centered in the broken bolt, then make sure you use the biggest easy out you can, bigger is less likely to break. Soak it in a real penetrating oil, NOT WD40. A good whack on the broken bolt with a hammer and punch will usually break any corrosion loose. Some heat applies to the surrounding surface, but not the bolt, can help. But the key is not to reef too hard on the easy out.

Too many guys hammer the easy out in place then crank down with a long breaker bar and snap the easy out then curse the easy out for being junk. It works, if you understand how to use it.

[cageman]

I would take a washer, weld the center of it to the busted bolts top, dont worry if it is below, it will still work, then weld a nut to the washer to use a wrench on to extract the broken bolt, I would never drill a bolt, that makes no sense at all, this is by far the easiest way to get a bolt out that has probably been bottomed out, and that is why it is broken. Make sure you have the right length bolts.
It is easy, and when you see how it works youll see why it is easy, the heat from wleding mekes the bolt come out easy. I have welded bolts that were a half inch down the hole before, easy.

[Dart 65]

Originally Posted by rumblefish360

OK I'll take a look in a min. I'll give ya a PM if I find it.
They are avalable new from MoPar as well.

Do you know the item number in case the shop doesn't have one?
This is what I found on MP:

http://www.mopar.com/m_perf_subcat2C...=1168543471050

http://www.mopar.com/m_perf_subcat2C...=1168543647262

[sundrop_440]

I have another tip for you to remove the broken stud, I agree with using the biggest easy out you can and apply a good rust penetrant,- here's my tip, if you heat up the area around and even the broken bolt itself, then take a large glass of water or something and pour it over the same area, then apply pressure on the easy out quickly, not too much but quickly, what happens is you have two different metals and they cool at different rates and when you pour the water on them they will tend to shrink away from each other for a short time allowing you to turn the stud, you don't have too get it red hot just real hot try it a couple of times and see if it breaks loose, this has saved me many times esspecailly on brake bleeders. Sundrop