FYI - 70 Duster vs 69 'Stang

[Richard Reardon]

I liked your story, but you may end up quite disappointed if you expect that "little" 383 to move that '71 Road Runner "lead-sled" around the way it did that Duster. You'll be adding approximately 1 thousand pounds of dead weight to your ride.
Another thing I'd like to mention is that if you are rebuilding the engine, you may want to pay strict attention to what it was, 'cause if you didn't take the time to find out, you may not be building as potent an engine as you already had, which would be even more dissapointing to you.
I'm not trying to bust yer bubble, but it seemed to me that this "homework" was on the back burner and you didn't seem to be aware of the weight differance in the 2 vehicles. I'd hate for you to be wasting your time and money by overlooking these 2 facts.
Good luck, I hope all works in your favor.
Richard

[Elwenil]

Hey, I know what you mean, but I'm just the builder, not the owner on this latest project. I regreted selling the Duster back to my partner, and even more so now that he has torn it apart. The 71 Road Runner to me is a rare enough sight to go ahead and do it up original, but it's his car and the original block is missing, soooo... We have concidered the weight differences, but he wanting to build the RR as a matter of style I think. The whole project has been kinda put on the back burner now. Mainly because after doing the body work, paint, interior and wheels and tires, he is looking at the money he's spent. I told him to plan it right and not to get cheap now that he's down to the last part. So, I'm at least happy that the car is on hold, and not being rushed through. I think the engine will perform differently in the RR for several reasons. One is the weight. Two is the four speed instead of the 727 with high stall. These two changes along have got me looking at other cams to try to keep the performance the same. I'm sorta itching to try out this set of porting templates I've had for about 3 years now. He wants to try this as well, but he hasn't bought a die grinder yet, and I'm not willing to burn up my little Dremel tool just yet. In any case, I want to document this engine for future use, because I have a some 383 stuff that I would like to put together in the sometime. I seriously doubt that this engine will be anything like it was because of the change from A body to B body.

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~Elwenil~ ~.\|/.~
Elwenil.cjb.net
DodgeChargerSE@aol.com
72 Charger SE

[Richard Reardon]

Elwenil,

As for the die grinder, you'll definately want to use an air operated unit. Be sure to get one that's comfortable to use-not to big. It's a long teadious job and being precise is everything. You've got to do all the ports as much the same (uniform) as possible. Also, the old Hippie Hisself has voiced some concern about jumping into home porting on Chrysler heads. He and I kicked it around back in October I think it was.
The head porting template you mentioned is interesting. Can you send me some info on it, such as where you got it, etc.?

My e-mail address is ERReardon@aol.com

Thanks, Richard

[Elwenil]

The templates are just the usual one put out by Mopar Performance. They don't give you much information on the ports themselves and leave a lot to you imagination as far as how to take the term "blending". I bought them just to get a better understanding of how changing the area around the valves would help airflow. I have been thinking about this idea for a while and I figure if I don't put anything into it then I shouldn't lose anything but time. That's the whole idea behind my friend buying the die grinder. I have a few heads here that are either cracked or have something like a rocker shaft pedestal broken off, that I kept around incase I wanted to experiment. This way I can make some mistakes and maybe later cut cross-sections out of them to see if they are to thin in the port area. All in all, it is just an experiment of sorts, and I don't take it seriously, but it is cheap and if it worked it may be worth it.

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~Elwenil~ ~.\|/.~
Elwenil.cjb.net
DodgeChargerSE@aol.com
72 Charger SE

[Mr Belvedere]

Don't forget the gloves! I've been using the grinder a lot lately in my unheated garage. If I am using it for anything over a couple minutes it freezes, frost and ice and the whole works. It has been in the 40s lately, but even during the summer it gets damn cold.

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"...they don't make no seatbelt for the mind, so I can't buckle up for this ride."

Mr Belvedere (aka Jason)

Current driver: 1966 Plymouth Belvedere II, 400BB (Torker 383; Purple Shaft 6pak cam; Carter Competition AFB; Hedman headers; 2 1/2" full exhaust with Flowmasters; Jacob's ProStreet Ultra Energy Team; recurved distributor; 8.2:1 smogger heads; Moroso 8qt pan/pickup; HV oil pump) and 727 Torqueflite (2400 Stall; Transgo shift kit)
This weekend: 1" plastic carb spacer
Best run 14.40 by previous owner (track opens in MARCH!)

[Richard Reardon]

Just a little more B.S. on the die grinder bit.
Remember, it's not how much you actually grind out, it's the precision that you adhere too in doing the job.
You want to get all the imperfections out of the runners that inhibit air/fuel flow, round off all 4-corners to a consistant radius of all the ports, intake & exhaust - port matched to the gaskets and as for blending you can do this 3/4s of and inch to 2 inches down into the ports. It basically depends on how much effort you want to put into it. You want a smooth transition from the intake and exhaust deck surfaces down into each port-don't leave a "step" where you leave off and be consistant in your depth from one port to the next.
Yes, I definately agree with you that if you have a junk head to "play" with - go ahead and practice. Once you've got a "feel" for the technique and are familiar with the feel of the grinder, then you can get serious.

I've found the carbide and diamond bits to be the best and my favorite bit is the ~ 1/2" diameter bit tapering to nearly a point, but a good variety of 4-6 different shapes will come in handy, depending on where you're grinding in the port. You'll need a couple of each bit too, as they do wear out. You want a grinder with a 1/4 inch collett and w/ ball bearings as you will be putting a lot of side thrust/load on the grinder. Use bits w/ 1/4 inch shanks too. Let the bit do the cutting. If you have to start leaning on it, it's new bit time!
FYI, Harbor Freight has advertised a nice "long reach" grinder recently and I'm thinking of investing in it.

Richard

[ChristianCuda]

On the bit issue check you local major tool shop and see if they have a crosscut or bouble cut steel grinding bit. I works wonders a lot better than adiamond bit and takes a long time to wear out. I ported two heads completely with one bit and then loaned it to a friend who did both of his heads. You will know it is the right style when you look at it and it will have the normal cutting edges and then a second set of cutting edges at an opposite angle.

I will see if i can get a picture of my bit as soon as I get it back from my friend.

Christian


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68 'Cuda 383 Working on adding EFI
69 'Cuda Race Parts Car
76 Duster 273 recent transplant
95 Neon 2.0 SOHC best of 16.96
84 Dodge Ram D50 transplanting 360

[Elwenil]

Thanks, Christian! I'd appreciate any tool or technique tips on this subject. I still haven't gotten the the nerve to start on this idea, but the more I learn, the better I feel.

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~Elwenil~ ~.\|/.~
Elwenil.cjb.net
DodgeChargerSE@aol.com
72 Charger SE

[Richard Reardon]

Hey guys, I'm curious!
How'd this post end up w/ the topic heading of '70 Duster vs. '69 'Stang?

Richard