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#1
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Installing a Performer RPM on my 383, question about the gaskets
I have done many intake swaps on other engines Chevy, Pontiac, etc. but I am wondering why they give you 4 intake gaskets in the set, how many am I supposed to use, just 2? or stack them? whats the deal here.
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#2
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Are they different materials? I assume you are talking about the intake port gaskets?
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#3
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Manifold gaskets
The big block Chryslers have to be one of the easiest of all V-8s to change intakes on. There aren't any water passages to deal with [ it's unnessary to drain the cooling system] and the distributer can remain untouched. As for the gaskets, if all you're doing is a manifold swap [ no milling of block, head or manifold surfaces] just use the sheet metal bathtub gasket with RTV on the end rails and a gas resistant sealer on the intake ports. #2 non- harding Permatex works fine. The extra gaskets you're refering to are used to sandwich the sheetmetal gasket when either the manifold side of the heads or the manifold itself have been milled or in the case of aftermarket heads when a valley plate is used in place of the sheetmetal gasket. Hope this helps, good luck.
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#4
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They provide you with four gaskets to seal the bathtub gasket that covers the valley area, you place one paper gasket next to the head intake surface then you install the steel bathtub gasket,and finally you install the second paper gasket against the intake manifold surface, start all the bolts and then in sequence tighten them down.
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#5
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ok thanks, guess I would have figured it out after pulling the intake but I am not there yet and was just trying to figure stuff out ahead of time.
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#6
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Quote:
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#7
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From the factory it was just the tin pan. I'm not sure who decided it was necessary to add the paper ones.
Guys have used with or wiothout, and it seems to work either way. I find the fit better without the added thickness of the paper ones. I have a huge stack of the paper ones left over, since I've never put them in. Just the tin pan, with rtv on the ends. Cheers |
#8
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i've read (somewhere) that paper gaskets came into use because aluminum intakes don't tend to seal as well as the heavy, rigid cast iron oem intakes -- which only required the stamped metal valley cover to seal. however, the more gaskets you begin stacking, the more potential you create for sealing problems (not to mention it can be a major pain in the ass to get everything aligned and torqued down properly).
if your head and intake surfaces are true and parallel to each other, you ought to be able to seal an aluminum intake fine with just the valley pan and a little brush-on sealer. i once took a used pan and applied a medium-thick layer of permatex copper around the ports on both sides, creating a home-brewed silicone-bead gasket. was going to let it cure completely for a few days then install, but shelved it in favor of a totally different route -- cutting the port areas off a pan entirely and running a regular intake gasket. that's what i still run today. i had to try this because my intake/head angles aren't so good. |
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