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#1
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Big Block Water Pump
Hi, Whats the best big block water pump for street use? 69 Charger, 440 .060 over, 4 speed, no ac or power anything.
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#2
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A rebuilt version of the one it came with, would be a good choice.
There are some varients of the stock pump, but they don't give a huge difference in cooling (IMHO) Or are you talking about going electric or something like that? I run a stocker on my 440 street/strip car. |
#3
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I mean Edelbrock or Milodon or Mopar or Mancini mech pumps. I have a stock new one now but was wondering if any these would be better?
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#4
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A new pump can only be better if it pushed more water than the old one. But, that won't make a difference unless you're able to cool down the water at a faster rate to make up for the increase in flow. But, the more water it pushes, the more hp it will take away from your engine. Are you upgrading your radiator as well? Are you going for a smaller pulley?
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#5
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Hi, I already have a 4 core rad with shroud and stock pulleys. Car runs around 185*, will get up to 210* to 220* in stop and go traffic. I was just wondering if anybody had used a "better" pump and what their result was.
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#6
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Get one that's for a car with A/C from your local parts house.....they flow more than non A/C.
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#7
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If the A/C pump is used with non-A/C pullies it will actually flow less. The A/C pump needs to be driven at least 130% of crank speed to equal the flow of the non-A/C pump.
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#8
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Don't you mean the opposite?
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#9
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Also, not sure if anyone can verify this, but, I believe the standard non-AC water pump pulley is 6-3/16" and the AC water pump pulley is 5-5/8".
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#10
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No. The A/C pump only has 6 vanes while the non-A/C pump has 8 vanes.
The 8-vane non A/C pump is driven at near crank speed (.95) so the smaller 6-vane A/C pump needs to be driven faster to pump the same as the larger pump. Depending on the year/installation, the smaller A/C pump is driven at 130%-140% of crank speed. |
#11
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I did not know that... Thanks for the enlightenment!
Isn't that screwed up though? |
#12
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I like the CAT or Mad Dog or the variety of others with the curved impeller. Less cavitation means less airation and that means more efficiency. At least get one with an anti cavtation plate, like a BeKool or other brand. The Miloden/Edelbrocks and even MP have very crude looking impellers. I got an old Stock one that has a bakelite impeller, very nice looking BIG curved blades with backing plate. wonder why they went away from that design.
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#13
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The centrifugal water pumps are capable of 100% slippage which means they will supply water pressure depending on the restrictions in the lines. The friction loss caused by these restrictions, size of the radiator and internal block all effect the total efficiency of the system. The number of blades and shape also come into play. I would recommend a A\C pump with the plate for streeet applications because of my experiences with this type pump. Black 440 Duster driven in the high desert year round with no over heating problems in over 8 years of driving. The car had a 26" three core OEM radiator.
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#14
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All interesting replies. I work at NAPA part-time and looked for a AC pump, no difference, at least from my parts. But did come across a hi-po pump that had 6 vanes with what looked like a backing plate on it. It makes sense 8 vanes low rpm street or stock use.....6 vanes higher rpm with less cavatation. Thanks for all the replies. I think right now if I need added cooling I'll add a 12" or so pusher fan.
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#15
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That's the problem with the aftermarket, in a lot of cases they make a judgement call and list items as "one size fits all" rather than stock multiple parts.
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#16
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I have a 496 Cuda. An aluminum radiator solved all my overheating problems. Got if from Howe for around $200 I think.I switched to an electric fan also, and rarely have to use it, unless stuck in traffic. Also get a high flow thermostat.
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