cam break in

[bwidner]

Just finishing up my first cam swap. What do I need to do to break it in?

[rumblefish360]

At the risk of sounding like a jerk, follow the instructions.

Something like varing RPM's between 2500 - 3000 rpm for 15 - 20 min.s then change oil and filter, run normal.

[Dick]

Hopefully, your cam came with break in lube.

[dodger1]

When I first fired up my fresh engine, being mindful of the instructions to maintain a minimum of 2000 rpm and vary the speeds in the 2000 to 3000 range for at least 20 minutes, I wasn't aware that small block Mopars won't fill their cooling systems completely at the first (static) fill, and wound up with a severe overheat and boilover after about 10 minutes. I had to shut it down, but the cam did survive fine. If you have only done a cam swap you should be able to fill it properly, otherwise I'd find a way to burp the trapped air and continue to add coolant while it's running. Just in case!!

[dust]

Originally Posted by dodger1

I wasn't aware that small block Mopars won't fill their cooling systems completely at the first (static) fill, and wound up with a severe overheat and boilover after about 10 minutes. I had to shut it down, but the cam did survive fine.

Yup, ya gotta keep an coolant bottle full of water by the radiator. I recommend using only water in the system for break-in then draining it out after to get all the crap out of it.

I think I heard that here somewhere...

[dave571]

Originally Posted by bwidner

Just finishing up my first cam swap. What do I need to do to break it in?

Hopefully you assembled it with a cam specific lube, not just engine assembly lube.

This does make a difference,

Also, throw in an additive like GM EOS. Should be 6-8 bucks from a gm store.

Cam failure is epidemic these days.
May the force be with you at startup

[dust]

Originally Posted by dave571

Also, throw in an additive like GM EOS. Should be 6-8 bucks from a gm store.

or 9.5$......

[dave571]

I'm wondering if there is some sort of surcharge on that stuff down there.

Retails at the local gm store for around 8 canadian. I pay quite a bit less than that on my commercial acct.

[345Dart]

Originally Posted by dave571

Hopefully you assembled it with a cam specific lube, not just engine assembly lube.

This does make a difference,

Also, throw in an additive like GM EOS. Should be 6-8 bucks from a gm store.

Cam failure is epidemic these days.
May the force be with you at startup

You mean the "Force" be with us on Saturday during cam breakin

[bwidner]

rumble thanks for the tip however there is no break in instructions with the cam, yes i used the cam specific lube that came with it and engine assembly lube to finish the lifters, thanks for the tips guys will fire her up hopefully on my next day off, as some final re assembly is still required

[Dukes2fast]

I know better than to argue with what works. But, I went to our local NAPA and the parts counter guy claims (I know, I know) GM EOS is not a initial start-up additive but a assembly lube. And that GM advises against using it as one. How did EOS become so popular as a break-in additive? Or am I missing how it is suposed to be used?

[dust]

Originally Posted by Dukes2fast

I know better than to argue with what works. But, I went to our local NAPA and the parts counter guy claims (I know, I know) GM EOS is not a initial start-up additive but a assembly lube. And that GM advises against using it as one. How did EOS become so popular as a break-in additive? Or am I missing how it is suposed to be used?

It does say on the bottle that it is an assembly lube but it's popular for break-in because of the vital chemical elements in it such as zinc. Elements that are vital to flat tappet engines but are no longer found in modern oils.

It is not like assy lube where it is very tacky, it is an oil after all.

[sundrop_440]

Make sure you get your timing close, if your retarded to much you can create alot of heat at the exhaust and cook your ceramic headers if you have them, just a tip from someone who's been there.

[68mopar]

If you don't run it for the 20 mins at 2000-3000 you may "rub" flat spots into your cam lobes. smooth rotation equals performance. Good luck.

[nhdriver]

Originally Posted by 68mopar

If you don't run it for the 20 mins at 2000-3000 you may "rub" flat spots into your cam lobes. smooth rotation equals performance. Good luck.

Good advice Have the car outdoors & make sure you have good airflow into your radiator. A big electric fan blowing at the rad wouldn't hurt if you have one.

[Jacksdad]

Check out bobistheoilguy.com - lots of stuff on lubricants and additives. STP oil additive has a lot of zinc too and it's less than $3 a bottle.

[dust]

Originally Posted by Jacksdad

Check out bobistheoilguy.com - lots of stuff on lubricants and additives. STP oil additive has a lot of zinc too and it's less than $3 a bottle.

I have yet to read about STP, do you remember how much zinc it has compared to GM EOS? It'll be great to just get STP since it is less than 3$ and easier to find.

[Jacksdad]

Dust - I did read an article that compared the zinc (ZDDP) content of a number of additives. I'll try and find it for you. I seem to remember GM EOS usually comes out on top (or close to it). CD2 SLOB is supposed to have a lot of ZDDP too, and according to a lot of the threads on the subject on bobistheoilguy.com, it's apparently regularly on sale at Big Lots.

[djswwg]

I always use Shell Rotella 15-W-40 for engine and or new cam break in because it has lots of zinc content, as needed by diesel engines. Rumor has it that production of this oil will stop at the end of this year, so might be wise to stock up........djs

[dodger1]

I've used Pennzoil 15-40 LongLife diesel spec oil for the same reason - zinc content.

[bwidner]

picked up the stp all i need to do is get the front accessories back on and set the timing hopefully tommorrow and tuesday i really need to get sone heating and ac vents in my garage its dipped back into the 30s here and space heaters dont work cuz of all the mountain winds but hopefully she will get fired up tuesday thanks for all the help

[70Ted]

diesel oil has already been reformulated with 25% less zinc. Also i heard that GM EOS has been discontined.