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  #1  
Old 03-30-2007, 12:28 PM
oibrownskin oibrownskin is offline
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Default car SUDDENLY dies

Well I was driving home yesterday in my 1973 Dodge Dart Swinger with a 318 bone stock complete with Carter 2-barrel when it died on me.

Funny thing is, there was NO warning. I was cruising at 55mph, not accelerating just maintaining speed when it cut out suddenly. It felt as if it ran out of gas.

I could not get it started again at all, it will turn over without end, and kick maybe once, but a sad pathetic halfhearted effort at BEST!!

I have replaced the fuel filter, and confirmed that I am getting adequate fuel to the carb. I noticed some fluid at the top of the carb where the linkage pushes the accelerator pump down, perhaps this is the culprit.

What are your ideas? I plan on checking (when my dad gets off of lunch) for spark at the coil and plugs. I had everything for a tune-up already, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, etc. I have a carb rebuild kit en route.

Help me please

Caesar
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  #2  
Old 03-30-2007, 01:03 PM
TK TK is offline
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First thing I would do, is plug in a new ignition control box, and a coil.

CZoils usually run once cooled.
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  #3  
Old 03-30-2007, 01:10 PM
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coupe32 coupe32 is offline
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Had that happen once and it was a defective rotor cap that just came apart.
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Old 03-30-2007, 03:18 PM
oibrownskin oibrownskin is offline
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Default update

I have changed all the plugs and my coil is good. didnt (forgot) to check spark to the plugs (indicative of fault from distributor to control box, etc).

Noticed one thing when my dad was cranking the engine over out of the side of my carburetor at thebottom where it bolts to the intake manifold, there was a spray of fuel out the side. This is probably a bad gasket or a leak, could this be a contributing factor?


Caesar
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Old 03-30-2007, 04:43 PM
oibrownskin oibrownskin is offline
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update again.

pulled the cap and rotor and just for kicks I turned the engine over with a remote starter (smart buy on my part) and the rotor was not turning as it should. It would shake and then spin 3/4 of a revolution and then shake and shudder 1/4 of a revolution and then spin. All the while it should have made at least 4-5 complete revolutions.

Mopar guy I know (from phone calls only) says it is most likely a bent distributor shaft, I will pull it on Sunday to find out for sure. I am taking a break until then.

Caesar
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Old 03-30-2007, 06:22 PM
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coupe32 coupe32 is offline
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My rotor cap that came apart was also due to a worn distributor shaft bushing. The distributor shaft bushing was worn badly causing the rotor cap to turn out of round and hit the contacts in the distributor. I initially thought it was just a bad rotor cap but the worn bushing was the culprit.
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Old 03-30-2007, 10:36 PM
425W5 425W5 is offline
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First check for spark if not check to see if there is any power to the p/u coil in and out then also check power at the ballast resistor.
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Old 03-30-2007, 10:46 PM
dodger1 dodger1 is offline
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I'd say you found the culprit in the non-turning rotor. Fix that and then try the other fixes if necessary.
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  #9  
Old 03-30-2007, 11:28 PM
70AARCuda 70AARCuda is offline
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If the rotor is not turning consistency....check your timing chain....probably lost some teeth on it.
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  #10  
Old 03-31-2007, 12:51 AM
dodger1 dodger1 is offline
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Good idea, 70aar. The nylon timing gears had a bad habit of shedding teeth which of course would cause all sorts of problems. oilbrownskin, if you haven't already done so, first check the rotor itself to see if it is damaged. If it's ok but the distributor shaft itself doesn't turn properly, pull any valve cover and look for valves not opening as they should. If so, it's the timing gears & chain. If not, it's a distributor shaft problem. I hope it's the distributor, for your sake; but if it is the timing gear at least you can get a roller chain replacement setup for a reasonable price. Do NOT - repeat NOT - buy the parts store replacement nylon gear!! (Yes I have the t-shirt)
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Old 03-31-2007, 01:26 PM
crisser crisser is offline
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Then, don`t forget to pull the pan and get the broken teeth out of it and the pump screen.
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  #12  
Old 04-01-2007, 01:33 AM
fastnos fastnos is offline
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Default no start

Pull the distributor, and have someone turn it over with the key. If the drive isn't turning, you've need to replace the timing chain and gears. Also if/when you pull the gears, look and see if any material is gone. If you don't get the pieces out of the engine, you'll soon "find them" plugging up you oil pump pickup!

Hate to be the bearer of bad news, but it sounds like this isn't going to be an easy fix tho.

How many miles are on the engine, and what kind of maintenance was done on it?
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  #13  
Old 04-01-2007, 03:29 AM
oibrownskin oibrownskin is offline
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Default update and questions

Pulling the distributor tomorrow to see if it is messed up or not.

I also like the idea of pulling a valve cover and seeing if the valves are opening and closing as they should, I will need to buy a new valve cover gasket.

Also I found the right carb #s (otherpost) and got my carb rebuild kit coming (not that it matters on this post).

In regards to checking for spark and power at the coil and ballast resistor, the coil is fine and so is ballast. When I plugged a plug in, i got nothing, that is when I pulled the cap and noticed the problem with it not turning, figuring that is why I was getting no spark, it was not being "distributed".

Caesar

PS

I will let you guys know what I find tomorrow night.
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  #14  
Old 04-07-2007, 04:44 PM
70Ted 70Ted is offline
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well?what did you find?
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