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  #1  
Old 04-02-2007, 03:36 PM
jst1960 jst1960 is offline
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Default Engine wont start

Hi guys,i just rebuild my 360 and now i cant get it to start.Ive triple checked timing,valve lash and everything i can think of.I tried a different carburetor that i know works.It tries to start after you crank it but it just wont.Im wondering if i have a vacuum leak at the intake manifold.Im going to try taking it off and adding some sealer around the mating surface.It is an aluminum manifold.I do have spark and fuel.Any other suggestions?
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Old 04-02-2007, 03:46 PM
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How did you line up your timing chain sprocket marks?
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  #3  
Old 04-02-2007, 07:22 PM
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Have you moved the distributer around some?
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Old 04-02-2007, 09:23 PM
jst1960 jst1960 is offline
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The timing chain marks were lined up with both dots in the twelve oclock position and distributor at number one.Or with both dots closest to each other its firing number 6.Yes i have moved the dist.around some.I initially have it set on 10 deg.before TDC and rotor pointing to number one.Any way to diagnose an intake leak if its not running?Im sure i dont have it 180 out or it would backfire.
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Old 04-02-2007, 11:32 PM
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Huh, weird.

Did you pump the lifters up?

May want to do a compression test, how about gas? How long has it been sitting? gas goes bad on me pretty quick.
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  #6  
Old 04-02-2007, 11:36 PM
dodger1 dodger1 is offline
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Cam and crank timing gear dots need to be dot-to-dot. (Cam gear mark at 6 o'clock, crank gear mark at 12 o'clock) Distributor rotor then must be pointing towards #1 cylinder (Front left corner of the engine). If it doesn't, you need to be sure the slot on the top of the intermediate shaft (the one with the gear that engages the cam gear and drives the oil pump) is pointing towards #1 in the same manner. If not, lift it up enough to disengage the cam gear and move it around until it does. (This can be a p.i.t.a but needs to be done) You may have to rotate the crank a bit in order to get the oil pump drive hex to drop into the pump before the shaft fully engages with the cam gear. Bring everything back to #1 TDC and doublecheck that the slot points to #1. When it does you can install the distributor, of course with the rotor pointing at #1!!
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  #7  
Old 04-03-2007, 12:08 AM
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ehostler ehostler is offline
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spark can be a tricky creature...

You state that it tries to start but just won't. That sounds like it catches, you release the key and it stops. If that's the case, then you may have a bad ballast resistor or wiring going from the resistor to the ignition switch.

There are two ignition circuits from the switch. One provides current directly to the coil, when you are cranking the engine. The other feeds current through the ballast and then to the coil, with the switch in 'RUN'.
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Old 04-03-2007, 01:57 AM
jst1960 jst1960 is offline
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Dodger1,why does it matter where the slot relation is as long as your at #1?Is it just to get your vacuum pod in the correct position?If so i dont have to worry about that as i have no vacuum pod.Ehost,I have a mallory hyfire ignition.

http://www.moparchat.com/forums/showthread.php?t=103164
Dodger this thread seems to contradict your timing theory.
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  #9  
Old 04-03-2007, 03:38 AM
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ehostler ehostler is offline
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The orientation of the distributor really doesn't matter so long as the rotor points to number 1, when number 1 is just before TDC of the compression stroke.
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Old 04-03-2007, 03:40 AM
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Unless you are running a toggle switch, the Hyfire still gets a trigger (turn on) signal from the key. Again, they key provides to ignition leads. One for start and the other for run. If run is having a problem, the hyfire will not see the voltage and turn itself off.
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  #11  
Old 04-03-2007, 03:54 AM
jst1960 jst1960 is offline
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Thanks for that tip on the ignition Ehostler,i do have a toggle switch on it.I pulled the intake off tonight.I put on the felpro HP intake gaskets that have the blue sealer ring around the ports and they were still intact just like new.I dont think my intake was sealing.I didnt put any kind of sealer on except for on the end rails.Should i put some sealer around the intake ports when i put it back on?Good thing i didnt put any coolant in it yet,it may have ended up in my crankcase.
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  #12  
Old 04-03-2007, 11:20 AM
sundrop_440 sundrop_440 is offline
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are the rockers stamped or adjustable, how did you adjust them if you did, I don't believe its your carb (is it new) you can just pour a couple ounces of fuel down the carb and it should startup for at least a moment, you could hold a test light on the + side of the coil and have some one turn it over to make sure you have current during startup, just a couple of tips to go along with whats been suggested. Sundrop
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  #13  
Old 04-03-2007, 03:19 PM
dodger1 dodger1 is offline
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jst, I appreciate your confusion after reading the prev. posts, plus sometimes I'm not very good at explanations. Maybe the attached info copied from my 1980 Factory manual will clarify this issue.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Timing1-1.jpg (107.3 KB, 14 views)
File Type: jpg Timing2-2.jpg (33.1 KB, 13 views)
File Type: jpg Fig 36-1.jpg (104.5 KB, 13 views)
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  #14  
Old 04-07-2007, 04:30 PM
70Ted 70Ted is offline
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sounds like distributor is 180 out.
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Old 04-08-2007, 02:11 PM
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Hi i had a similar problem with my75 dart 318 . It would turn over but only fire 1 or 2 cylinders when i turn key off. I back tracked the ignition system because i did have gas. I found a low amp coming from the pick-up in the distributer. I put a new distributer in. It fired up. Good luck
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  #16  
Old 04-08-2007, 05:24 PM
jst1960 jst1960 is offline
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Its running now.I took off the intake and sealed it well.Ajusted timing some and its running great now.
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  #17  
Old 04-08-2007, 06:44 PM
rolfo rolfo is offline
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Sounds like your ready to have some fun this summer.




rolfo
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  #18  
Old 04-08-2007, 11:02 PM
dodger1 dodger1 is offline
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Glad you got it sorted out. Could have had the timing off by enough to screw the firing order completely (doesn't take much) or a vacuum leak or a combination of both. Cheers!
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