Torque converter

[hemirambob]

I've got a 66 Coronet 2 dr cpe with a new .030 over 400 bb, balanced, KB 240 pistons, forged h-beams rods, zero deck, Edelbrock Performer heads and intake, BG 750 carb, 4:10 gears, new hemi leaf springs and adjustable snubber, 30" tall tire, 1 3/4" headers, Comp Cams pp292h (Intake - 247 dur./509 lift - Exhaust - 254 dur./509 lift) and whatever the thing weighs. What do you guys think about stall speed for the converter and what size (10", 11", ?).

Thanx in advance,
Bob

[peg leg]

I always suggest logging on to the convertor builder websites and filling out their application form, online. You will get good accurate answers to your specific aplication. If they don't have a form online, try calling them. If they just want to sell you something, they won't have an application form.
Ron

[crisser]

I`d run a 10" that flashes to around 3500. You`ll pay for a good one. No Summit catalog $h!t.

[hemirambob]

Thanx, I'll check out the various good manufacturers for that form. ATI has a 10" that stalls at 3000-3200 and I spoke with them and that's the one that they suggest. I'm thinking about this one because it has the Torrington bearings which my buddies say is a good thing? This is primarily a street car but will be run at the track too.

[66cornet]

I have the same basic setup as you hemirambob.....66 coronet sedan with a 440, street driven and to the track. Just ordered a 3500 stall Hughes convertor from Summit Racing part # HUP-24-35HD

I got ythe HD 'cuase a gonna run progressive nitrous next year and they suggested it.

Cost was 583.95 and I got it in a week after ordering it. Call Hughes and see what they say........

I was really happy with their help....and shipping was free when I ordered through Summit

[hemirambob]

Yea I wasn't sure about Hughes but I asked some friends and the quality seems to be high. I'll check em out.

[rumblefish360]

I'd call these guys up myself. http://www.dynamicconverters.com/

[hemirambob]

OK. Whats your experience with this converter?

[BJSracing]

Is this a street car? Race car? or is it a dual purpose set up?

[dave571]

I like my dynamic, but know others who have been screwwed hard by them. For that matter they tried to screw me, but it didn't work out that way(long story I will leave out for now)
I don't refer to them anymore.

I've heard good things about ultimate converter. They seem to know thier stuff, and may be worth a call.

http://www.ultimateconverter.com/

[crisser]

Call Kris at Continental to see if he has what you want.

http://ctconverters.com/

[hemirambob]

Hey BJSracing: It's primarily a street car but will see some track time.

[DartGT66]

I have used many different brands, TCI, ATI, Coan, Turbo Action etc., and am now using PTC converters. I don't have a favourite manufacturer, in my opinion they all know how to build good converters, and it's just a question of how your communication with the converter company works out, do they really understand your needs, and do you even understand it yourself. And in the final stage it's still a miss or hit situation when you bring it to the edge, still not dependent of the brand. The reason I have lately used PTC is simple; the price. You usually get what you pay for, but with PTC's I have gotten just the same as with some other brands, just for less money.

[hemirambob]

Thanx Dart, I'll check those guys out. I still get a little confused with the terminology - stall, flash, loose, tight, "slip" (which I assume has to do with loose tight and it's figured in percentages?). I know that picking the right converter can be a bit of a guess but I'd like to try to get close.

[DartGT66]

Stallspeed is usually brake stall speed, how high you can raise the rpm on gear with the tires locked. Flash stall is the rpm where the stall goes with a sudden "hit", for example stepping on it off idle. It's ususally a bit higher than the brake stall speed, and only momentary.
Loose and tight refers at how the converter behaves below the stall speed. There can be major differencies, and it has more to do with the streetability. I have had "looser" 10" converters with about 3500 stall than any of my 8" 6000+ stall converters, the 8" were more streetable and the rpm rarely went above 2500 rpm in regular city traffic.
Slip is a % of slip in the converter above its stall speed. Engine rpm vs transmission input shaft rpm. For example, our old family car with a TCI 10" converter went through the traps at a little over 6000 rpm. With a 9.5" PTC it was a tenth quicker, had a couple of mph more and over 1000 rpm less through the traps, so the PTC slipped way less. This was a difficult car converter wise, having 3.23 gear ratio, 3600 lbs weight and 28" tires combined with a little over 700 ft-lb of torque. The TCI I had was a regular 10" "super street fighter", and since it slipped I started to look for a new converter. I made inqueries to many converter shops, TCI told that the super street fighter is not meant for that kind of use, but they never answered if they could make one. Some other companies also told, that they couldn't build what I wanted. PTC responded, and I ordered a steel stator 9.5". When I recieved it, they had decided to go with a regular stator, and the converter actually cost less than the TCI it replaced and worked better. Well, the stator broke after two years, so I think it should have had a steel stator in the first place. I had it fixed, and sold forward. Still got my new one from PTC, this time it will see even a more harsh environment with hopefully over 1000 ft-lb and even heavier car.

[hemirambob]

Thanx Dart. This all is making better sense to me now. I'll call PTC also to get their recommendations.