Ignition help on new P/U

[go-fish]

I just got back from Guam on Thursday an was the proud owner of a 1973 D100. I was on a 6 month deployment and had sold the Dodge Stealth Bomber before I left, I needed to find a good Mopar to get me to the base everyday which is only 3 miles away. I initially thought about a bicycle but it rains alot here and the streets to the base are filled with crazy motorists funneling in for morning formation. I have had some close calls in the Stealth and won't chance it on a bike.
The truck is a one owner but that wasn't necessarily a good thing. It sat and sat and sat. There is alot of little rust holes and none of which bother me except for the roof, still it doesn't leek.
I went to the parts store and picked up a few things like a rotor cap and spark plugs. I also got an ignition module. The guy asked if it was a 5 or 4 pin, didn't know there were different ones so went and looked. It had a 4 pin module and the plug itself was a 5 pin. ???
It runs like crud so I figure the correct number of pins may help. So, should this helpit out? It has other issues like the the exhaust leak and dirty carb.
Also, I wanted to get the good ignition module, is there one that is orange that is better than your standard OEM replacement?

[dwc43]

You can safely run a 4 pin ecu in a five wire plug in, but it wont even start if you plug a 5 pin ecu into a 4 wire plug. It's just the way it's wired. Mopar sells an orange box, but you don't want that one. It's failure prone. If you want the performance box get the Mopar chrome box. Sounds like a good tune up, FRESH gas and filter and a carb rebuild might be all it needs if it sat up for a long time.

[go-fish]

I had stopped by a buddy's house tonight and he had an orange box that he gave me. Said hegets them in a kit and puts them in the cabinet because he buys a chrome box and uses it.
I tried it and it wouldn't start. I have an OEM replacement and will just use it. I am going to fix the exhaust leak, do a fuel filter, spark plugs/wires, and get the bias ply's off there.
It runs right now, not too bad to putt around but it should run great in a few days.
I need to get the headache rack and the plethera of tool boxes off too. There was moss growing on it.
If cleaning your truck involves a weedeater, you might be a redneck.

[dave571]

Originally Posted by go-fish

I had stopped by a buddy's house tonight and he had an orange box that he gave me. Said hegets them in a kit and puts them in the cabinet because he buys a chrome box and uses it.
I tried it and it wouldn't start. I have an OEM replacement and will just use it. I am going to fix the exhaust leak, do a fuel filter, spark plugs/wires, and get the bias ply's off there.
It runs right now, not too bad to putt around but it should run great in a few days.
I need to get the headache rack and the plethera of tool boxes off too. There was moss growing on it.
If cleaning your truck involves a weedeater, you might be a redneck.

It's been sitting right? Have you tried some fuel additves, and cleaning out the carb. Probable take a few tansk of good gass,a t the very least. Fuel filter etc....

[go-fish]

I filled it upwith some good gas. I am going to the parts store this morning to get some carb cleaner. I will prabably get a tranny filter and fluid as well.
Anybody know how many quarts I should pick up? I think it's 7 or so, isn't it? Been awhile.
I have a Holley two barrel carburetor that was on the 71 360 that I am building into a blown stroker. It has the regular four barrel sized top for a 4-bbl air cleaner and it's chrome. I'm going to stick it on there and see if it isn't too big for it. The 360 ran great and I have what I believe is a hi-flo mech. fuel pump.
Oh yeah, the diff fluid will probably need to go because of not being used. The moisture down here has probably caused some corrosion on the inside of the rear.

[pishta]

once you get it running, adjust it to a very high idle and dribble water into the carb throat, Youll start belching out black crud from the tailpipe so dont have it aimed at your new white garage door. This is carbon that is in the cylinders and head, itll clean up those parts very well. Also run about 5-10% diesel in your first tank of gas, itll clean out your fuel system very well too. No cats on this truck is there? I bought a 273 4bbl car that was stored 22 years in a warehouse and these tricks worked great after I limped it home on 4 cylinders. New gas, 8 new plugs, new points and an oil change, ran great.

[go-fish]

I was actually going to pour some ATF down the carb, I had done that with a Duster I bought from a little old lady. She drove under 35 for the last 20 years before she had sold it before the nursing home. I am going to go out to the country and do it because it really smokes when you do that. I'll try the water here at the house though.
No cats, It barely was exhaust at all, the pipes are almost rotted into around the tranny. The muffs are roudn cannister types, about 5" in diameter and 2 ft long. I have some 12" cherry bombs I have been holding onto for about 5 years that are going on it.
Just found out it's a 72 and it is after all a 360!!!

[TK]

Originally Posted by dwc43

You can safely run a 4 pin ecu in a five wire plug in, but it wont even start if you plug a 5 pin ecu into a 4 wire plug. It's just the way it's wired. Mopar sells an orange box, but you don't want that one. It's failure prone..

Actually, I beg to differ. I have had a orange box, since I was 16. It has followed every daily driver with electronic ignition since then. (over 150,000 miles) It has never gave me an ounce of trouble, and either has the dozens of them I have seen on other peoples rides. The aftermarket ones, you get from NAPA and such, are failure prone, from what I have seen. The MOPAR orange box?

Run it, it will last you years and years, I bet.

[TK]

Originally Posted by go-fish

I was actually going to pour some ATF down the carb, I had done that with a Duster I bought from a little old lady. She drove under 35 for the last 20 years before she had sold it before the nursing home. I am going to go out to the country and do it because it really smokes when you do that. I'll try the water here at the house though.
No cats, It barely was exhaust at all, the pipes are almost rotted into around the tranny. The muffs are roudn cannister types, about 5" in diameter and 2 ft long. I have some 12" cherry bombs I have been holding onto for about 5 years that are going on it.
Just found out it's a 72 and it is after all a 360!!!

I really like the sound of glasspacks, so shoot me guys! You know, the tranny fluid idea may not be a bad one, if you happen to have some exhaust valves sticking a bit, or even intakes for that matter, it would help, or, even some sticky rings. May want to try Marvel oil, it is a bit thinner so it will penetrate better, and sure smells better when coming out the other end!
On a side note, do it before you install your new mufflers, or it will burn all of the packing out of them. unless thats a good thing.

Best way to tell if it is a 360, is to look on the drivers side of the block, if you did, then hey, 42 more cubes is 42 more cubes!

[go-fish]

I got the pickup running good in short order. However, last night I swtched out the factory wheels with the wheelsand tires I already had, Weld Prostars. I backed the truck in the driveway , changed them out, and let it down. I jump in it and the truck wouldn't budge. It seems as though the caliper on the pass. side is stuck. I had a hard time with this because I was really lookig forward t driving it to work tommorow and showing my buddies my new "Sport" truck (it's an Adventurer Sport).
It seems strange that the brakes worked great and then after putting different wheels on it, suddenly right away the caliper locks up.
This was all last night in the cold and I didn't inspect the weel or caliper clearance so I a about to go out and do that. I don't think there would be any interferance there but I don't know. I am pretty sure it is locked up, I gunned it when I first put it in drive and it sounded like the brakes were activated.
I was so pi$$3d off I just turned it off and went inside.

[go-fish]

Note to self: 1972 Dodge D100 Adventurer Sports require larger than 14" wheels.

[dodger1]

Another note: I put some 15x8 old-style mags on my 76 B-200 Maxi years ago and got exactly the same result. A little grinding on the caliper fixed that, but I was pretty pissed off!!

[go-fish]

Well, the idea of buying a cheap truck and spending little money to get it running right is fleeting. I adlusted the carb and changed the plugs. I sorted out the wires a little better by putting on some used, but still good, Accels. I was pouring ATF down the carb and was revving it and then the doolant started coming out the weep hole. I went out to get the old water pump that I remeber being a good one from a past teardown of a 71 360 and it seems as though someone snuck out my old one and put in its place a very pitted, roughlooking water pump. Oh well, I guess I didn't think it was that bad. I'll still blame it on punk neighbor kids that also are in the needof LA water pumps. My $1,000 dollar pickup is more like a $1,700 pickup.
I ditched the idea of chrome wheels and bought some 225/75-15 Tiger Paws for the stock wheels. The stock hub caps do make it rustic andit matches the "Old man style".
Another trip to the parts store to get a new pump. I'm going to try Sanborns trick for the blades by welding a circular plate on them. Supposed to help keep the flow up past where the stock one drops off.