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#1
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I found a short block 360, now I need heads and intake, and cam. But I'm not sure which ones...any suggestions would be appreciated greatly.
Andy |
#2
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question 1 is what kind of performance do you want out of your street 360. Try and find the last 4 issues of mopar muscle. they did a budget street build-up (2500.00) on a smog 360. They retained the stock smog heads and did a lot of work to them and got them flowing better than x heads. The end result netted them 390 hp. on the dyno. More power than the 360\380 crate motor for a lot less money and a lot more work. One note, if you read these articles and decide to do your own heads be very carefull with them . They are easy to screw up. it is generaly better to take them and have them done unless you have a few sets to play with.
------------------ "MOPOWER" There Is No Substitute *CUDADUDE* |
#3
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Hi, good find. I would use Mopar J heads, 2.02 intake, 1.60(?) exhaust, either a factory 4 bbl intake or an Edelbrock Performer depending on if you are on a budget or not. The Edelbrock is a close replica of the factory intake except for the plenum opening and the weight. If you are shooting for good mid range to upper rangs power, get the Performer RPM. As far as the cam, I am still wondering about that myself. I have a 318 with a 600 cfm 4 barrel holley on a cast iron manifold and plan on using the 1.88 intake heads (318's have a smaller bore, so I do not want the 2.02 heads), and may be upgrading the cam soon as well. From what I have heard, the MP 340 cam is a good selection and may be what I run. What exactly are you putting it all in anyway?. cruzerjd
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#4
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Yeah, I'm still on a budget, but I'm getting that short block for $30!! So basically you're saying I can take any head and make it flow like crazy with lots of work? This will go in my '88 Dakota. I hope it'll fit with headers!
[This message has been edited by Knucklebuster_jr (edited January 30, 2000).] |
#5
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I thought that mopar muscle was a vary good build up especially for the back yard machnic .Any time you can get 79 smog heads to flow better than X heads you got my attention .I don't know if you guy's priced X or J heads lately but you can rebuild the hole head for what you would pay for just a core.plus all the tinkering was just new valves ,gasket matching,and some blending.I don't consider that to be a lot of work unless some one else is doing the work for you.plus most of the gains were from the valve desighn and a 30*valve seat.but after reading that my thought's on cylinder heads went to sh----t .
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#6
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knucklebuster_jr,
What year model is the 360? |
#7
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I don't know what year. I know it's pre-magnum, if that helps. And does anyone know, is there any one block better than another?
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#8
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You can determine the uear of casting by inspecting the driver's side of the block. There should be a cast date on it. You can also look just under the driver's side deck on the front of the block. There should be a set of numbers stamped there also. These numbers are coded, but if you post them someone here is sure to decode them for you.
The pre-74 blocks are generally considered to be better. They were supposedly cast thicker. If you have any doubts, sonic test the block, checking for thickness and core shift. |
#9
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I would definitely check out the Weiand 8007 dual plane intake. I have this on a 340
4 speed '75 Duster and on a '70 Duster. Engines were set up in the following manner. '75 '69 340 x heads 9.0:1 MP 284 / .484" cam, TQuad runs in the 14's with 225 wide (skinny) back tires. '70 '70 318 block with J heads 360 crank machined to fit & rotating mass balanced. 270 Comp cam 904 tranny TQuad. This is a hell of a combo with the added stroke ( 3.58 vs. 3.31") of the 360 crank. Michael |
#10
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440Ramcharger could you post a build up on that 318 with the 360 crank I'm thinking of going that direction with my 69 Dart ,I have everything i need to build it,just don't know how.
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#11
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My humble opinion is that you'll save a great deal of $ if you're trying to locate stuff from the boney yard.
You got a block, the best heads is the #302 from 88-90 trucks, they are better than the old X and J heads, mill them and use the stock pistons. Remember that porting is expensive, but with these heads you can go stock...and use pump gas as well. Get a -71 340 intake (pretty rare) or equivalent, weiand, Edelbrock performer...) Try to find a good Thermo-Quad, -72 up. (cheap). Cam...try the 340 blue print from MP, or perhaps one step bigger. Use thin head gaskets, MP electronic ignition, and you'll have muscles... Why even consider to modify a 318 when you get a 360 block for peanuts? the 360 has larger main bearings, fatter crank and you may use 340 heads & intake... |
#12
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Minor corrections, mopar_nerd. The '87-'91 cylinder heads had the 302 casting number on 318 heads, and 308 on 360 heads. I've read that they had improved (W-2?) exhaust ports and regular intakes for use in the pre-magnum engines. I've been looking for some 308's myself, but haven't seen any yet. Maybe not true W-2 exhausts, but similar to them. That's what I read in one of the less reliable Mopar magazines, not something I came up with myself.
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#13
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Hi in my opinion the best head would be P5007086 complete Magnum cyl head, then use cam would be 280/.474 P4452992 Also if daily driver use on cam smaller 268/272 .450/.450 P4452761 and a the M1 dual plane if driven daily if more strip then single plane. Then buy rocker package P4876050 for 8. Then use an AMC type lifter. Cost less that what you might think heads about 275/300 each Cam 125/150 Rockers about 5/7 each. 5/16 push rods must be made to lenght about 130.00. Manifold is about 200.00 New cam and lifter could save money buying cam after market, but watch lift magnum rockers are 1.6 ratio not 1.5.
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#14
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I have to put up a small caution flag. 88 dakota? Have you checked on the smog laws? In california you can't have anything that wasn't offered and it has to have ALL the smog crap on it for that year vehicle. Only pre- 1974 are exempt.
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#15
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Yep, 32what, this is Indiana...no junk like that (yet). My smog equipment consists of an air pump and catalytic converter. Thanks.
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