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  #1  
Old 05-09-2007, 03:03 PM
rrunnertexas rrunnertexas is offline
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Red face Blown fusable link

Here is a subject everyone knows and loves, electrical problems! In this case I found the source of the problem and it is fixed (shorted alternator).

However, I have a question regarding the fusable link on the bulkhead of my 68 B-body. What is the rated load of this link? 30 amps, 40 amps?


I can buy a replacement link at my local Autozone, which states 16 guage on the wire. Or, I can buy one from Year One for a lot more. Are they the same thing?
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Old 05-09-2007, 10:18 PM
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ehostler ehostler is offline
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The last time I had a fuseable link go, I installed a new link that used a blade fuse. The fuse is very easy to come by and replace.

If this is a restored/show car, then I would go with the one from YearOne, as it will have the correct appearance.
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Old 05-10-2007, 04:47 PM
rrunnertexas rrunnertexas is offline
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Ehostler,

I like your thinking... But, I need some more info. What amperage rating should the fuse be?

I am taking a guess it should be at least 50 amps since the alternator is capable of putting out that much, correct?

Thanks
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Old 05-10-2007, 08:31 PM
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ehostler ehostler is offline
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I used a setup that came with a 50 amp fuse. Never had a problem with it.
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Old 05-10-2007, 11:32 PM
451Mopar 451Mopar is offline
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You have to consider what the fuse is protecting, In this case it is the wiring itself. The fuseable link (16-AWG) is actually protecting the 12-AWG main red wire connected to cavity J of the bulkhead. The current capacity of the wire is determined (mainly) by the conductor size, then the insulation type, then it may be de-rated determined bo the environmental temperature it is operating in. Anyhow, it all just goes into determing at what temperature the insulation starts to melt.
I'm not sure what the insulation type is, but common electrical wire "TW" insulation, the 12-AWG is rated for only 20 Amps, but with "THHN" insulation it is rated ar 30 AMPS. The 16-AWG THHN wire is rated for 22 AMPS.
Sure you won't blow a 50-AMP fuse, your wiring will melt before that happens!
I think a 30-AMP automatic re-setting curcuit breaker would probbly work pretty well in place of the fuseable link. If you have modified the wiring (added extra loads or a higher output alternator) you should add an extra wire and circuit breaker from the alternator to the battery, and try to run high current loads (electric pumps, fans, headlights, etc) directly off the battery/alternator using relays.
Also, even though the 12-AWG wire may be good for 30-AMPS, the spade type bulkhead connector probbably will heat up even more because of the resistance in the contacts.
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Old 05-22-2007, 04:52 PM
70Ted 70Ted is offline
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INSTALLING a fuse is not the same as a fusible link.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ehostler View Post
The last time I had a fuseable link go, I installed a new link that used a blade fuse. The fuse is very easy to come by and replace.

If this is a restored/show car, then I would go with the one from YearOne, as it will have the correct appearance.
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Old 05-22-2007, 08:55 PM
wilks3 wilks3 is offline
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Go to www.madelectrical.com, click on the tech part, go down where it shows eliminate amp gauge. They show you how to update your cars wiring in a safe way. Read all the way through,two pages worth. Will show you what fuseable links to use.
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