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#1
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Does anyone know 400 motors
I want to build a 400 motor with high persormance but i dont want to make it a stroker.
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#2
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400 is a decent motor.
Lot's of plusses. A forged 383 crank can be used (if forged is something you want. The cast will take a lot of abuse too) The B block is quite strong, and 3.38" stroke is short , so it can be built to rev. It works out really nicely as far as chamber size. A 78 CC closed 915 will give you really nice quench with a flat top, and good comp. Around 10:1. The quench, and a hot cam, and it'll run on pump gas.(some will argue this, but I have done it, and been happy with it). What car? What are you goals? PS...welcome to the board! |
#3
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We built a low buck 400 years ago. Stock cast crank, stock rods with ARP bolts, balanced, TRW L2266F .030" pistons, they are 440 pistons and work with 0.010 overbore 400. They come slightly above deck and need a little trimming with open chamber heads and deep valve pockets cut. The CR with 84cc heads ended up being around 10:1. The cam was pretty hot, comp cams 306R solid roller, Team G intake + 850 holley, and 2" primary headers with 3" exhaust. The ehads were homeported 452's with 2.14/1.81 valves, and the engine was run with 93 octane pump gas. It worked great, no sweat turning 7500 rpm, and has been together for several years. Run 10.6's in less than perfectly set up 2900 lbs A-body. 400 is a great engine, and like said above, really likes to wind because of the short stroke. The main problem with it for performance use, is the lack of high compression inexpensive pistons. One way to solve it is doing like we did, using oversize 440 pistons, but you still have to have valve reliefs machined etc. And I think, that KB has some pistons for 400 too, they might be a good candidate.
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#4
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Quote:
On the real subject - 400s can be built to run very strong using a lot of 383/440 parts. go for it - dare to be different. |
#5
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...or you could get one of the good (and inexpensive) stroker kits from Muscle Motors or 440 Source and tell everyone its a smogger 400 that you pulled out of a 74 Newport sedan, after you blow the doors off of some smug rice-racer or Camaro drivin' dimwit! Only you will know whats in there for sure!
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#6
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Thanks Dave. I got a block that is stamped a 1975 but the numbers in Big Block Mopar Performance the numbers read different frm 1976 to 1978. I"m thinking it is an ealry model 1976 thats stamped 1975. So I'm thinking its a 75. I"m looking to mkae something around 530 horsepower with more torque. To my understanding 400's come with 383 cranks. I would like to build it without stroking. Could you tell me how to build it with stroking it to get 530 horsepower and without stroking it to get 530 thanks everybody
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#7
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For 530, you'll probably need to wind it up pretty tight. OK, a short stroke makes that easier, but you need to match the power curve to the rest of the car.
HP = (Torque X RPM) / 5252. What are you going to do with it? What is it in? Transmission? Rear axle ratio? |
#8
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For your horsepower level, the first thing to check is to make sure the block is in good condition. Have the block magnafluxed, the bores sonic-checked if your local machine shop has this equipment, QUALITY machine work-decking, boring & honing w/ a deck plate, etc. The second thing is good cyl. heads. This horsepower level would require 2.14 in./1.81 ex. valves, full porting (read: professional). This could be done with stock cast iron heads, 906 o.c. or 915 c.c. would be best. The Edelbrock RPM heads would be an excellent choice as well with a good porting job. A forged 383 crank, again with quality machine work. A forged piston would also be best, many to choose from based on dome shape/size & desired comp. ratio. I think you'll want to see somewhere around 10:1 comp. Cam selection would be a solid/solid roller type, many good cam grinders out there, call them and ask for their recommendation for your setup. At this point the valvetrain will have to be adjustable, either iron rockers such as Isky or crane are good choices, or an aluminum roller rocker such as Crane, Comp Cams, Harland Sharp etc. Best intake would probably be Mopar M-1, & carb 850 cfm. 2" primary, 3 or 3 1/2" collectors with 3" exhaust & X or H pipe crossover & good flowing muffs. There are many other aspects to look at such as ign. sys, gearing, converter, chassis set up etc., but this should help you along somewhat. Good Luck!
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#9
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I agree with the posts above. Valiant 64 is right about the machining etc. That much power will find the weak point in a 30 year old casting.
Not quite. They have the same dimensions. MOST 383 cranks were forged, while MOST 400 cranks were cast. Quote:
530 HONEST hp is a tall order for a 400"IMHO. Needs to be a fairly radical reving build. An Eddy headed 400(or expensively ported iron heads), with flat tops. or even some dome(good lightweight forged), quench, a good intake(RPM or a nice single plane) a good set of rods, Roller rockers, a 250@50 or more cam with 550" or more lift, 800cfm of carb, big tube headers, 3700 stall ....Something along those lines. Make power up around 6800 I'm not saying it is impossible by any means, but that level of power from 400" is a really well balanced combo. Stroked..... Much easier, and likely not any more money than non stroked. eddy's, a little less on the comp, 440 source 500" kit, 240 or so on the cam, similiar carb, less stall,. Will make all the power, and be way more streetable. Good dual plain intake Make all the power closer to 5700rpm (approximate numbers here, I'm not a dyno sym...LOL) |
#10
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i know you SB guys get Displacement envy often so perhaps it is time for an upgrade...LOL
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#11
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Envy? Nahh, we just gotta spin faster!
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#12
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I belive our budget 400 made "around" 530 hp, 128 mph in the 1/4 mile weighing 2930 lbs. Have never calculated it, but it made the amount it did with very little effort. The combo was what it was, mainyl it was done cheap with used parts. According to any dynamic compression ratio experts, it had way too much cam, 275@.050" with only 10:1 cr, the pistons were extremely heavy, external balance because of the cast crank etc. Even the heads were different pairs; a ported set bought used with one exhaust port leaking, so I quickly ported one head to replace it, and it was done completely differently than the "straightened & hogged out" old heads, propably done with an axe.
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#13
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Thanks guys for your response on the 400 motor I'm trying to build and get 530 horses out of it. The car that I'm hoping to put it in is either a 70 or 71 Dodge Dart Swinger or Dodge Dart.
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#14
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In response to that I wanted to also say it doesn't sound like its impossible to get 530 horses by what you are all saying. But it doesn't sound like its all that easy either. I thought by using 440 heads on the 400 with the right cam and pistons it wouldn't be that hard to gain those horses but it sounds like going the Storker way, and please correct me if I'm wrong its much easier to gain the 530 horses that way. I'm just looking for 500 to 530 horses. Thank you. Please respond.
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#15
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No, just a B guy. But a B aint bad!
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#16
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The stroker engine will be the cheapest and easiest way to get the hp you want. You already are looking @ buying a different crank either way, since you probably shouldnt try to make that hp on the stock cast crank. You could use the stock forged 440 crank for a 451 or 474 ci stroker, or get the 4.15 stroke aftermarket crank for 500+ ci. The 451 should make this hp easily & reliably with the stock crank. Aftermarket rods would be a good idea, however. Also, you wont have to buzz the stroker like a stock stroke 400 to make the power & torque you want-lower rpm=longer engine life.
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