Moparchat - Home of MOPAR enthusiasts worldwide!



Go Back   Moparchat - Home of MOPAR enthusiasts worldwide! > Technical Forums > Performance Talk

Click here to search for Mopar cars and parts for sale.


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 05-13-2007, 08:01 AM
doctorpimp doctorpimp is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Petawawa ON
Posts: 19
Default Denso Alt - LA 360 - Problems...

I tried to do the Denso alternator upgrade in my wife's 360 Eddy headed, '66 Barracuda.

It doesn't fit.

The alternator is too wide. It's a 120 amp ND from a 1999 Dodge 5.2L van.

Not sure if it's because of the Edelbrock (Indybrock) heads width or just because it's a 360. I may be able to get it to work, but I'll need a ton of spacers for the pulleys and fan...

Has anyone done this upgrade on a 360? Eddy heads?

Please help...
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 05-13-2007, 02:01 PM
ehostler's Avatar
ehostler ehostler is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Annandale, VA
Age: 57
Posts: 15,212
Default

Go to the hardware store and buy a long shim/spacer. Then cut it down to the correct length.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 05-13-2007, 08:13 PM
doctorpimp doctorpimp is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Petawawa ON
Posts: 19
Default

Thanks for the reply
I was able to get the spacers to fit, so that the alt was about a 1/2 in from the head. The biggest problems: 1. Belt alignment and 2. Tensioner bracket being too short.
I had to change the waterpump pulley for one from a 318 A/C car (just happened to have one) It was shallower than the one I had on.
I had to make a bracket-extension for the tensioner bracket arm. It all fits in nicely now. I was even able to use the same fanbelt.
I'll post some pics once I get my post count up...
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 05-14-2007, 08:35 AM
ehostler's Avatar
ehostler ehostler is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Annandale, VA
Age: 57
Posts: 15,212
Default

Cool, glad to hear that you were able to find a way to make it work. I hadn't thought about needing to go with an A/C waterpump pulley.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 05-14-2007, 10:02 AM
kick_the_reverb kick_the_reverb is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Formerly Herzelia, Israel, now San Diego, CA
Posts: 143
Default

On my A-100 van (early type water pump), I tried using the junk cradle type of mount that was on it (it has been broken and welded on before), and I didn't like the result. I thought of getting new early style brackets from Mancini, but there was no guarantee that the big alt would fit well with those. Also, the Denso alt is mounted in the donor vehicle in a way that locates the positive stud away from the head. If I used early type of brackets, you have to turn the alt upside down and then the stud is very close to the head, and you have to grind on the insulator. What I did is go to the junk yard, and get the lower alt bracket of the donor vehicle - a truck or a van with TBI. I also got the top bracket, but ended up not using it. So I mounted the bottom bracket, and for a top bracket I just used a big block adjuster bracket which I removed the perpendicular support (because I had it on the top, the support was facing toward the radiator). A better solution might be to just use a universal chevy type of adjuster bracket for the top.
I still needed to shim for pulley alignment, but that's no big deal.
This way the Denso alt is mounted with the positive stud away from the head. I don't know about you guys, but I don't want a 120 amp positive current shorting to the head.
Sorry I have no pics.
Good lcuk,
Ran
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 05-14-2007, 12:13 PM
doctorpimp doctorpimp is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Petawawa ON
Posts: 19
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by kick_the_reverb View Post
On my A-100 van (early type water pump), I tried using the junk cradle type of mount that was on it (it has been broken and welded on before), and I didn't like the result. I thought of getting new early style brackets from Mancini, but there was no guarantee that the big alt would fit well with those. Also, the Denso alt is mounted in the donor vehicle in a way that locates the positive stud away from the head. If I used early type of brackets, you have to turn the alt upside down and then the stud is very close to the head, and you have to grind on the insulator. What I did is go to the junk yard, and get the lower alt bracket of the donor vehicle - a truck or a van with TBI. I also got the top bracket, but ended up not using it. So I mounted the bottom bracket, and for a top bracket I just used a big block adjuster bracket which I removed the perpendicular support (because I had it on the top, the support was facing toward the radiator). A better solution might be to just use a universal chevy type of adjuster bracket for the top.
I still needed to shim for pulley alignment, but that's no big deal.
This way the Denso alt is mounted with the positive stud away from the head. I don't know about you guys, but I don't want a 120 amp positive current shorting to the head.
Sorry I have no pics.
Good lcuk,
Ran
I wish you had pics of that set-up.

That is a good point about the post shorting out... I haven't noticed anything. I will look at night to see for sure.
I don't think 14 v has enough EMF to jump a 1/2" space...
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 05-19-2007, 08:13 AM
doctorpimp doctorpimp is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Petawawa ON
Posts: 19
Default

I finally shot some pics:
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Denso 1.JPG (86.4 KB, 19 views)
File Type: jpg Denso 2.JPG (64.8 KB, 18 views)
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 05-19-2007, 08:21 AM
doctorpimp doctorpimp is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Petawawa ON
Posts: 19
Default

I am having a problem now though...

My AGM battery is boiling!?! (Trunk mount - 2/0 cable to starter and 1ga from alt direct) It's a 770 cca unit.

My volt gauge shows 14 volts after start and 13+ when driving. I confirmed the after start volts at the batt + with a DMM : 14.2 v

It appears that the voltage regulator is good.

I don't get it...

Could it be a shorted cell in the battery?
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 05-20-2007, 11:30 PM
doctorpimp doctorpimp is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Petawawa ON
Posts: 19
Default

Anyone?
I really need help with this one...
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 05-21-2007, 08:18 AM
ehostler's Avatar
ehostler ehostler is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Annandale, VA
Age: 57
Posts: 15,212
Default

Disconnect the voltage regulator. With the DVM, check to see if it is still charging. If it is, disconnect that field wire from the alt. Check for charging. If it is still charging, the fault is internal to the alt. If it stops charging, then the field wire is shorting to ground.
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 05-21-2007, 08:53 AM
doctorpimp doctorpimp is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Petawawa ON
Posts: 19
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ehostler View Post
Disconnect the voltage regulator. With the DVM, check to see if it is still charging. If it is, disconnect that field wire from the alt. Check for charging. If it is still charging, the fault is internal to the alt. If it stops charging, then the field wire is shorting to ground.
Thanks Ed.
I'll go see...

I thought that a grounded field wire would give max volts - 16+ amps (effectively by-passing the volt reg.)
The voltage is no more than 14.5 after a start.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 05-21-2007, 08:54 AM
doctorpimp doctorpimp is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Petawawa ON
Posts: 19
Default

Oh yeah, the alt is hot to the touch after 10 mins...
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 05-21-2007, 11:59 PM
ehostler's Avatar
ehostler ehostler is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Annandale, VA
Age: 57
Posts: 15,212
Default

It doesn't hurt to check, as you appear to be overcharging the battery.

Worst case, most auto parts stores will test the charging system for free. They will also test the battery for free.
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 05-22-2007, 12:10 PM
doctorpimp doctorpimp is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Petawawa ON
Posts: 19
Default

Well, I took my battery into Canadian Tire for a warranty replacement. It was at 8.5 volts when they load tested it and failed. Since I was within the 36 mos warranty, they gave me a free replacement.

I hooked that bad-boy up and got 14.8v on start (the battery was 12.35 v from the store) after a few minutes it was down to 13.5v

I went for a half hour drive through the town and highway with the lights, htr blower and radio on...
The battery was cool to the touch and smelled good, when I got back home

Thanks for your advice and experience!
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 05-22-2007, 09:31 PM
ehostler's Avatar
ehostler ehostler is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Annandale, VA
Age: 57
Posts: 15,212
Default

Glad to hear that it was a free fix.
Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
5.2 TC problems daniel.estep Ram Truck Chat 8 04-21-2008 02:19 PM
Denso alt. wiring cgraff Performance Talk 3 09-04-2003 02:08 PM
Coincidence: heating problems and electrical problems??? ttraut@unlockit Performance Talk 12 07-14-2002 07:04 PM
CEO problems BillyBob Joke Forum 0 10-21-2001 01:19 AM
Still having problems... Buck47 Ram Truck Chat 2 01-11-2001 07:17 PM




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:07 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
. . . . .