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#1
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overheating problem on 1970 cuda 383
I have an overheating problem on my 383 70 cuda pro street , there's about 500 hp I changed the stock radiator to a Bcool , changed water pump , have a high flow , went from a 180 to 160 thermostat , changed the hoses, put a clutch fan on it please help somebody. thanks Leo
my timing is 40 d full also |
#2
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Shroud
Got a shroud? Is the fan half way in to the shroud? Too far out or in with the fan diminishes cooling a bunch. Can you hear the fan roar when the engine gets hot? You should hear it well.
Ron |
#3
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i have a shroud
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#4
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Check your timing and fuel mixture and pulley ratio. If your turning the pump more than 4000 rpm it will cavitate and wont flow enough water to coll the engine.
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#5
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Is it overheating at idle?
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#6
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the timing is 40* full and im using 93 octane i have a high flow waterpump i never had a problem with the car before .this start about 2 years ago
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#7
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The timing could be too far advanced. The thermostat should be a 180* or 195* For maximum cooling effect, do you have 50\50 cooling system mix? What is a high flow water pump, is that the one for air conditioner equipped cars? The 160* thermostat will allow the coolant to start to flow at that temperature and has the potential pass through the radiator without any heat exchange taking a high flowing pump would only add to this problem. The Mopar 5 blade assymetrical fan found on late 70s early 80s cars equipped with A\C was tested and found to produce 15 more HP and provide better cooling, they cost about $15 at the yards and you already have the clutch. Keep posting on results its probably something simple.
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#8
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This is pure b... S... a centrifugal pump will not cavitate in an enclosed system full of coolant.
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#9
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No, it's not B.S. IF you knew what you was talking about you would not had said that. Why not go ask Sanborn to tell you how it does cavitate at high speeds. And by the way, fans don't produce 15 hp, they require hp from the engine to turn them.
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#10
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Your timing is a bit high. I would start by droping it down to 36*. And when does it get hot? At idle or at speed. A higher pressure cap on the rad will help to prevent over heating as well.
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#11
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For the 3rd or 4th time (my god, it's happened so many times that I'm loosing count), I must agree with DW on this one. I forget the RPM, however, it has been proven.
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#12
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Reread the original statement a couple of times, then you will get what he was saying. He meant that in comparison, the engine with this setup produced 15 hp more.
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#13
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A higher pressure cap will not help prevent overheating. It will help prevent boil over.
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#14
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i went with the meranze high flow water pump then went with the high flow milodon thermostat...i drilled a 1/16 hole in it....then you have to buy a new water neck to make the high flow thermostat fit....then i got rid of the flex-lite dual fans and bought the spal fans to fit my be cool radiator.....she runs160 /180 degrees all day...this is for my 572 hemi....good luck
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#15
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We have gone through this so many times, but lets do it again.
What is the "high flow pump"? Impeller size, number of blades. What is the pulley ratio-it needs to match the pump. Is it overheating at idle or speed? Cavitation can be an issue as DW says, but standard pumps are good to about 5000 and a bit higher with an anti-cavitation plate. If you are overheating at under 4000 rpm, cavitation is not the problem. As was said, the 5 blade fan is best, flows more, quieter, easier to put on. I would, however, suggest, that it be a lot less than halfway in the shroud. I have found them to work best if the are in the shroud only about 1/2 inch. Aluminum radiators usually need more airflow to cool than copper/brass ones due because of their big fin spacing. If you are cool on the road and hot at idle and low speed, you need to speed up the pulley ratio to about 1.3 and go to the AC pump, which is made to run at the higher speed. You may have a bit much for total timing, and check you mixtures, but I haven't seen either to have a major effect on low speed/idle overheating. |
#16
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guys thank you , what im doing is , putting a 180 stat in it and cutting down the timing im also going back to the stock rad because in the begining i had a stock rad with the engine at 13.5.1 comp using cam 2 race fuel i detuned the motor it has about 11.5.1 comp, i did that so i can us pump gas , oh well with the stock rad both motors ran the highest at 180-185 on a very hot day in traffic , i changed the rad to the b-cool when the stock one had a leak stupid me , i should of got that one fixed in the begining. so i thank you for all your help and im using info from everyone , ill be doing this sometime this week so ill post the out come and what i've done to let you know that its working good, hopefully
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#17
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Bigger Fan!!!!!!!!
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