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  #1  
Old 05-27-2007, 02:14 PM
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1976 Aspen 1976 Aspen is offline
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Default 360 Bottom End Questions!!!

Ok, here is what I'm doing. I just pulled my motor out of my Aspen because the main bearings went out of it at the track last week. The center three caps aren't tight in the block as far as side to side clearance. They're real loose in the block. Obviously the the crank is trying to walk around in there and hammering the mains out. Now, my question is, do I go with the Milodon 4-Bolt angled splay caps or a MP stud girdle? I've read the posts in the archives and am getting mixed feelings. It looks like some people say go with the girdle and forget about the splayed 4-bolt caps. Which is the way to go? It's a dynoed 450 HP motor but I spray it at the track with a 250 HP shot. On the chassis dyno on spray its putting 550 HP and 675 ft. lbs. of torque at the wheels. I have the MP 360 billet crank, JE Pistons, and Eagle H-Beam Rods. My bottom end is way more than I need but the block is where my problem lies. Any suggestions???
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Old 05-27-2007, 03:38 PM
aarracer aarracer is offline
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Default Too Much

76 ASPEN GUY

If you wish to continually create this much power, go get a 4 bolt race block (X or R). You will just keep throwing good money after bad using any splayed or girdled blocks. You will save money by using a 4 bolt race block as compared to repeated block failures with modified passenger car blocks. By the time you get the splayed caps installed you would have bought 3/4 of a race block, and you will still have repeated block failures at your stated hp numbers. The p car blocks just do not have the main web or pan rail material to modify satisfactorily for long term abuse. And we all know that us Pentastar fans DO like to RACE.

Cheers

AARRACER
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  #3  
Old 05-27-2007, 04:34 PM
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dwc43 dwc43 is offline
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Biggrin

AARRACER is 100% correct. At that hp level get an older X or a newer R block and build it to last.
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Old 05-28-2007, 12:35 AM
jordan360 jordan360 is offline
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Default

Where are some good to places to get these blocks?
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  #5  
Old 05-28-2007, 03:03 AM
George G. Leverette George G. Leverette is offline
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I am susprised that the engine has held toghether at these power levels. What was done to the oiling system? Does the block have filler? Please post on future plans.
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Old 05-29-2007, 11:56 PM
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1976 Aspen 1976 Aspen is offline
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The block doesn't have any filler at all and no oiling system mods to speak of. What kind of mods are you referring too? The main caps are pretty hammered out though. I ordered a Girdle from Hughes and 2 bolt billet main caps from Pro-Gram Engineering. It's getting line bored as we speak. The guy at Pro-Gram tried to sell me the four bolt caps but I took everybody's advice on staying away from them. I hope this gets me through the season so I can build a REAL motor over the winter. Any other advice would be appreciated.
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Old 05-30-2007, 09:40 AM
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dwc43 dwc43 is offline
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Biggrin

That wont hold up long either at your hp rating. I am surprised it held up at all with no oiling mods.

Drill the oil filter plate to a larger size and add some holes, or better yet, remove it, tap the two holes and use a remote filter system. Another must is the cross over braided hose in the lifter valley. You tap the RR lifter galley and run a braided hose to the LF lifter galley. THat way you feed the cranks mains and rod bearings from both ends instead of back to front. IT wont last long at all if you dont. We even do it to our 400hp oval track race engines, but they can be forced to turn a lot of RPM's though. In your case a deep sump pan from Kevko and the HV oil pump and pressure spring. A dual or swinging pump pick up would also help.

See Sanborns small block oiling and cooling mods in the circle track section posted near the top. Use all of them in your next build. ALso switch to head studs and cometic head gaskets before you get a problem started in the top side too.
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Old 05-30-2007, 03:26 PM
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1976 Aspen 1976 Aspen is offline
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That post is very confusing. How big do I drill the holes in the filter plate? Drill all of them? What size hose to run in the lifter galley and where to drill? Is there someone I can call to talk about this? Help!!!
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Old 05-31-2007, 09:58 AM
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Biggrin

O.k. There's 6 holes in the filter plate, I drill two more for a total of 8 and I drill them the next size drill bit up from stock. Sanborn has some pics of the oil supply line for the lifter galley in the beginning of his small block oiling mods found at the top of the circle track section. You should find those pics and they will pretty much show you where to put the line at. If you like, cantact Sanborn himself. I am sure he will be glad to help. I've been by his shop several times in the past and he's a great guy and willing to help.
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Old 05-31-2007, 03:56 PM
lilcuda lilcuda is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1976 Aspen View Post
Ok, here is what I'm doing. I just pulled my motor out of my Aspen because the main bearings went out of it at the track last week. The center three caps aren't tight in the block as far as side to side clearance. They're real loose in the block. Obviously the the crank is trying to walk around in there and hammering the mains out. Now, my question is, do I go with the Milodon 4-Bolt angled splay caps or a MP stud girdle? I've read the posts in the archives and am getting mixed feelings. It looks like some people say go with the girdle and forget about the splayed 4-bolt caps. Which is the way to go? It's a dynoed 450 HP motor but I spray it at the track with a 250 HP shot. On the chassis dyno on spray its putting 550 HP and 675 ft. lbs. of torque at the wheels. I have the MP 360 billet crank, JE Pistons, and Eagle H-Beam Rods. My bottom end is way more than I need but the block is where my problem lies. Any suggestions???
Sounds like your motor has a detonation problem. If you get stronger caps and/or block, you will just move the weak link elsewhere. Find the source of the detonation and stop it.

Lee
1966 Barracuda, 340 4 speed
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  #11  
Old 05-31-2007, 11:12 PM
Shaun Shaun is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lilcuda View Post
Sounds like your motor has a detonation problem. If you get stronger caps and/or block, you will just move the weak link elsewhere. Find the source of the detonation and stop it.

Lee
1966 Barracuda, 340 4 speed
I agree with you Lee.
Shaun
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  #12  
Old 06-01-2007, 11:02 AM
aarracer aarracer is offline
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1976 Aspen

Did any detonation show on the dyno pulls???
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