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#1
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This is what i got...This is what i want
so i'll start with what i have. Its a 74 dart sport,318,a904, 8 3/4 with moser axles and 4.10, Rebuilt the 318 last winter and its fun but just not enough... http://s91.photobucket.com/albums/k2...t=a71d4333.jpg
im really just lookin for opinions and ideas. i've gotten (for free from the old man)a 340 block from a 73 dart sport, and 2 forged cranks. a set of j heads that need everything, 7 cast rods (1 that got bent) and 8 pistons. Pretty much all just came in a box. Everythings sat since i was born so about 20 years... i have 7,892 in the bank and lookin to spend it all. We will do all the body work except for layin the paint, i want it done professionally. i figure thats around a grand...and another grand for wheels and tires..i just really don't kno which way to go with the motor i'll have everything checked out at Race Proven Machine here in my hometown...as for the rest this is what i've got so far...(and again its all speculation) hyper pistons h beam rods alum ed. heads im not sure ifi should go single plane on the manifold or not 750 holley dp have no idea on the headers 2 1/2 in exhaust with x pipe and flowmasters lunati .494/.513, 226*/234*@ 50 i would like to get an overdrive transmission out of a jeep and do that set up but i dunno where i could get a stall conv. Can you do that if its a lock-up transmission? thats just the basics i really wanna kno what you guys think or what you would do. My intentions are to be alot quicker |
#2
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Were it me
I'd throw away everything but the block, heads and cranks. I just spent $5976.00 for a new magnum 360 block bored 0.030, purple shaft cam, Crane 1.6 roller rockers, Mopar roller lifters, Mopar R/T (5007950) heads, balance, KB pistons, SSI valves, Cometic gaskets etc etc. This was done by a very reputable local specialty engine builder, so I think you are planning on too much for a good running engine.
As for paint, a GOOD paint job is going to run you 4000-6000 dollars. Now you can go to Maaco and get it done several times, and pray, for less. Been there, done that. Ron |
#3
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You got lucky with the 340 and forged cranks. Unless you intend to make serious (high rpm) power, the stock FORGED rods are pretty tough. Be absolutely sure the block, heads, and cranks are sound. Magnaflux the crank and rods, check the block every way there is including pressure-test, same with the heads. Don't bother going nuts with a big overbore, just clean it up to the next oversize piston, keeping the cyl. walls as thick and stiff as possible. TTI makes a nice set of headers that fit and don't trap the steering linkage like most others. Cam carb and manifolds should be carefully matched for the intended power level - most cam manufacturers will guide you there.If you want to go overdrive I would stick with the pre-electronic version 94 and back (might be off with the date) from a B-van or pick-up. There are high-stall lock-up converters and beefed o/d parts from several shops, www.smrtrans.com comes to mind. You'll have to fab a new torsion bar crossmember, modify the floor pan, and get a custom driveshaft so it's kind of a major job to install. Main thing is to take the time building the short-block right and you certainly have a nice package to start with. Enjoy!!
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#4
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From the been there and done that toooooooo many times to admit.... Finish off the body and other cosmetics first. The drive train is easy pickins and you have an excellent and highly sought after engine block and crank, so come back to it later.
Agreed, stock rods are tuff stuff. I'd keep'em. On a intake, a RPM would get the nod most everytime for a street ride unless I'm lookin to really set up a engine to knock'em dead with over 500 HP. Then the M-1 single gets the nod or a step up, an Indy single plane and heads. Mildly done J heads are good power makers. It'll cost about the same as Edel. heads and perform in the same area. |
#5
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Oh, you'll want an earlier trans, early as possible so the auto O.D. can be manualy turned on and off. Newwer models can not do that.
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#6
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Smr's site will give you the info on which o/d does what - go here: http://smrtrans.tripod.com/smrtransm...intro/id6.html I would agree with rumble on doin' the body and paint first as that can eat up $$$$ faster than you might think, even if you're doin' the prep yourself.
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#7
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I think he said he had 7 cast rods?
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#8
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With that cam, i`d go with a 650DP and a Eddy RPM intake instead of a single plane.
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#9
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crisser, he did say he had 7 cast rods, but mopar noobs aren't always aware that ALL smallblock rods are forged. Not to mention that they are all the same - 318-340-360, which makes it easy and cheap to source another stock core to replace the missing one. (Might have been a difference in T/A parts, but they are scarce as hen's teeth) Cost me $15 last week as I had a nick in one of mine, and the machine shop caught it and gave me the option of replacing. Magnaflux, resize and you're good to go!
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#10
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my buddy has a 71 dart, 318, that he bored 40 or 60 over to get 324, put a four barrel in it, and a good nitrous kit for around 2 or $300, and makes 350 horsepower to the rear wheels. I don't think you have to spend much money at all to go fast.
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#11
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Thats true. MoPar themselfs do not recomend port the head in a 340/360 in there tips section even with 12's being sought.
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#12
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i plan on runnin it pretty hard and dad always told me if your gonna make 400 horse build it to withstand 5 and you'll be better off
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#13
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Always listen to your dad. It's amazing how much they learn as you get older! LOL. Seriously, that's pretty good advice. Your dad is a swell guy in my book!
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#14
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YES! What dodger1 said! Wise words to follow.
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#15
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well thanks, i've learned more from him than i ever did at automotive school thats for sure
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