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prefireing questions
ok, next sunday is the tentative date to strat the smallblock in my duster. ive got a few questions, though, and most of it is just to refresh my memory. for some reason, some answers just arent coming to me....
1. i have 10-40 nonsynthetic oil to put in the pan. can i us ethat, or do i need a 30wt? 2. on flat tappet cams, i usually use the GM cam break in additive (zinc stuff). do i need to for a solid roller? 3. what is the break in procedure for a solid roller motor? 4. anything im missing? 5. anr reason i should have the driveshaft and tranny fluid in the car for start up? it'll be in neutral, and its a 4 speed. i know i still need to plug the vacuum ports on the carb, one water passage in the intake, connect the MSD box, make the plug wires, and put the rubber hose on the line from the tank. also need to tighten the motor mounts and add a fan belt. i think thats it. hopefully, ill get it pushed around to the rack on saturday, get the motor primed, and recheck all the nuts and bolts on everything. so, give me advise, just to refresh my head. Michael |
#2
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You DO need to have the tranny juice and shaft in. :-)PCRMike
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Ditto to pcrmike. And no, the roller doesn`t need the ritual break in like the flat tappet. But it`s good to run it a while at varied speeds to wear in the rings, bearings etc. You don`t need the zinc stuff. Just change the oil at 500 miles or less if you prefer, and roll it. |
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One thought comes to mind is about what additives is in the GM additive. In using a hydrolic cam the lube for cam/lifters have moly in it. I was always told this moly clogs up an oil filter quickly. Based on that, I always change the oil filter after break in, about 20-30 minutes of run time. Knowing you are not using that lube but are useing the GM additive, I still think I would change the filter fairly quick after a short run time. I would then leave the start up oil in there , say for 1000 to 1500 miles. I think the additive would be helpful staying in for a bit longer than 500 miles. Any body think this logic is incorrect.......thanks.......J
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#5
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You're right
Change the filter after initial startup, after an hour or so. You should definitely use an additive like Gm EOS or BG at every oil change. Todays oils are junk, and hurt cams and bearings. I would switch to synthetics after break in mileage. No additives needed and way better lubrication qualities.
Ron |
#6
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Don't want to break in a new engine with synthetic oil. Run 10-30wt dino oil for 2500 miles to make sure the rings seat. Then go to synthetic.
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#7
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the normal break in procedure i use is to start it, cycle it for 20-30 minutes at idle to 3000 RPM. change oil and filter. go drive it 100 miles. change oil and filter. change again at 500, again at 1000, 2000, and then 4000.
only after the 2000 oil change would i switch to synthetic, for just the reason you said: to let the rings take seat. never thought about keeping the additive in there past break in, though. good idea. so far, the stuff i needed to finish is coming along nicely. might take a little longer, though, as the opportunity to make side money has appeared. as my father always said, you either have time or money, never both. thanks for all the help. feel free to continue suggestions. ill take all the learning i can get. Michael |
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