Good crankshaft?

[ModRacerX]

In the near future I will be looking for a good crank for a small block...probably a 3.31 (maybe slightly longer)? It will need to be a good forged or billet piece (circle track, 550-600 hp, 7500+ rpm) and obviously lighter would be great. Just looking to hear who has had good experience with what brand? Anyone try Ohio crankshafts? What do most people pay for a new quality crank?

Also curious on peoples experience on using used cranks? I suppose it all depends what the original quality was and what shape it is in when you get it? I'd love to find a good used piece and save some money but don't really want too big of a gamble and have problems down the road.

Thanks!

[The_Dakota_Kid]

Lots of choices for billet sytle cranks, bryant, valasco, callies, windberg etc... Be prepared to pay $2k+ for one. As for comparison between Ohio Cranks there is no comparison, most of the affordable cranks, Scat, Cat, ohio crank, eagle are off shore forged places like China. I actually wouldnt see were you would need a Billet at that power level. I bet a proeperly machined "cheapo" forged crank will get the job done. I can say In fact that the cheaper cranks last fine In Big Block applications of 750hp+ at 7k, for more than a few years, even with inherent cap walk.

[sanborn]

Most of the really good used cranks will be "castoffs" from Nascar builders. They would be most likely either Bryant or Winberg. Most would be light---around 40-43 lbs., have GM rear flanges and GM or Honda size rod journals. The desirable ones have standard 340 mains. The undesirable ones have Ford main journals----undesirable because the require lots of work to fit a standard Mopar block. These cranks cost about $2800 new, used---less than 1/2 that. Some have been ground, most haven't. What is the likelyhood of getting junk? Reputable used parts dealers stand behind the used parts. Be very careful of a seller who won't stand behind the product.

[sanborn]

After thinking about it, I have a good, used Bryant crank that you can probably use. I don't want to get into pricing stuff on this site. PM me and we can discuss it!

[ModRacerX]

Hey Sanborn, I tried to send a PM but it said I need to have at least 25 posts before I can...ughh! Maybe you can PM me with the info and your email address then I can respond that way for now?? Let me know? Gotta run right now though...later

[cageman]

Im thinking this winter I will need to put my mod on a diet up front, mostly motr weight. I am running a steel 340 crank, and a cast intake right now, and I am probably heavier motor wise than the chevies I race against. I only have 25 pounds of lead on my car and I see other guys have a few more chunks than I do hangin on their cars, but it is in the rear, and my extra weight is up front.
Is a crank for a 340 hard to come by? what would a light one weigh?

[sanborn]

I think a stock 340 steel crank weighs 52 lbs. I consider a lightweight crank to be 45 lbs. or less. But there is differences in lightweight cranks. The crank I have for sale weighs 43 lbs., but the new gundrilled crank weighs 40 lbs. That is about as light as you can get keeping standard mains and GM rods. But, using Ford mains, GM rods will get you down to 38 lbs. Honda rod journals gets the crank down to 37 lbs. I don't know of any lightweight cranks that use Mopar Mains/ Rods/ crank flange. But, you must use the lightweight components with a lightweight crank---much more $$$$.

The advantage of a lighweight crank is quicker reving engines. But, it is an expensive way to lighten an engine.

Mopar engines are not that heavy. Our R block, W2 headed engine is actually 18 lbs. lighter than a friends Dart block, Dart head GM. This is based on a side by side comparison on the same scales. But, our R block is lightened also---the Dart wasn't. I can't give a comparison on stock blocks because not many people use them(Mopar or GM---or Ford for that matter).

Depending on your budget, I would get the aluminum intake(better anyway), get out the grinder and go to work on a stock block, cutting off all unnecessary cast iron. That will get you 8-10 lbs. Nasty work---but how bad do you want it?

[ModRacerX]

Sanborn, got your message. I think I may have some interest in the stuff you mentioned, I'll keep in touch and let you know. Feel free to send me info on the second thing you mentioned if you want? Thanks!

[ModRacerX]

Hopefully I'll get my post count up tp 25 so I can send PM's!

[cageman]

I have eagle rods now and I was just saying when I tear the engine down this winter, I will throw them away, they are cheap, and I think they will have gave me their moneys worth.
I have chevy size pins in my ross pistons, so if I get the crank with chev rod size, I can use the pistons again right. I would like to keep the 340 stroke, I like how it pulls, and I seem to have just as much power as everyone else, Im just learning the 4 link one race at a time, but I feel I need to lighten the front a bit yet. Intake is a for sure, I just dont want to mess with that now, My engine builder wants me to stroke the engine, but I like the smooth power my motor produces now.
52 pounds, down to 45 or so, not much, but it would make it a bulletproof motor. Ill have to weigh tthe cast intake and compare it to the alum one I get, I have no clue how much I can save there. * pounds on the block, that sounds enticing, that is for sure.

[sanborn]

Seven pounds on a crankshaft doesn't seem like much, but it really does make a difference in the acceleration rate of an engine under load.

And I am glad you recognize that Eagle rods have a definite life.