Hi again youse guys and gals

[usdart]

Been a long time since I participated here, short story is,sold my Dart and moved to another state.
Just bought a 77 Volare 318 'Lean Burn'. I would like to 86 the lean burn and put my aluminum intake and a small 4 bbl on it.
Questions...
Easiest and cheapest way to get rid of the Lean Burn crap.
I have a new ECU and blaster coil and an aluminum intake on hand from the ole Dart. Probably a wiring harness too. Car has A/c and a CD player too. Just looking to make a nice daily driver this time ( but, who knows where it will end if ever?). I have lots of parts for a small block and would like to use them on this car.

Howdy to Rumble and all the other wonderful knowledgeable folks, I miss being a part of the chat..now I am back!

[rumblefish360]

Welll heeeeello there stranger. Long time no see. Moved huh? That takes alot of effort. I'm still around a bit.

Cheapest and easiest way to rid yourself of the lean burn...

Junk yard distributor with the vacuum advance on it.
A MP would perform better.

The wiring harrness from ma MoPar would be the best deal to wire it up along with the proper ballast resister if you do not allready have it.
The engine book has the bulk head diagrams and locations for tapping into the MIF cavity. If you don't have it, I'll look it up for you.

IMO go for the Chrome box. I noticed a cleaner plug longer with this box. Better idle as well.

[usdart]

Thanks..I have a New FBO box in stock as well as the wires, I think I may need more help on the connection part. When I get closer to the time I'll ask for help. First I will start gathering parts and researching the swap some more.

[rumblefish360]

Oh good. That saves me a min. or so looking for Don's web site. I'm running one of his systems in my Dodge Magnum, 1979 318 swapped to a 400 P code engine. Works very well.

Wire it up like the MoPar manual says. Ask if you need anything.

[cageman]

Cheapest, put an HEI module from a chev in there, easy too.
I love it, and it is hands down the most reliable.

[rumblefish360]

If you wanted to do that, Mallory has a distributor allready set up for a MoPar in a GM HEI version. Just 2 cents worth.

[usdart]

Nuthin against HEI's but I already have the Mopar stuff, A recon dist is less than $50.00 should be a simple swap. Until Murphy finds out where I moved to.

[peg leg]

Hey, all the stuff I've heard about GM's HEI says it's junk, and prone to shorting between terminals and burning out. Am I the only one who knows this? Lots and lots of aftermarket GM Hei replacement units out there, for that very reason.
Nobody builds a better stock ignition than Mopar, and it's been that way for about 80 years.

[usdart]

Everyone has an opinion and everyone is always right in matters of opinion.

Having never tried an HEI I prefer to stick with what I know. MOPARS

[dodger1]

If you can get at a 1980 or earlier Factory shop manual, both ESC (LeanBurn) and previous straight electronic ignition systems are covered. I converted my 82 Mirada using a reman dist. and Mallory box. Manual showed me the way, bye-bye ballast resistor, no problemo.

[usdart]

Maybe a Points Dist is the best way to go, at least they won't leave ya stranded.

[dodger1]

Well, I guess you could go that way, but you still gotta re-do the Lean-burn harness to get it outta there and I don't really see the "point" in going back to points. Really old tech. The electronic ign. distributors are pretty cheap and reliable, and I believe you can now buy a Hall-effect Mopar-specific distributor that pretty much is failure-proof.

[cageman]

Isnt any electronic Mopar dist "Hall effect"?
You said cheap, this is as cheap as it gets, unless you want vacuum advance, then you would need a new dist.
I am very glad I have HEI modules in all of my cars and trucks, I have a fleet of them, and at least I dont have to worry about ignition problems.
Mopar ignitions are good, when they work, I just havent had any luck with them.

[usdart]

FULLY ELECTRONIC WYSCO PRO SERIES DISTRIBUTOR FITS, ALL EARLY Y BLOCK ENGINES,



THIS UNIT IS FULLY CNC MACHINED.

LET US EXPLAIN WHAT THIS UNIT IS TO YOU AS WE HAVE HAD SO MANY PEOPLE ASK IF THIS UNIT WILL TAP INTO THEIR EXISTING FENDER WELL MOUNTED MODULE, (BRAIN BOX), AND IF THEY HAVE A POINT DISTRIBUTOR, THEY ARE WONDERING IF THEY NEED THE TYPICAL FENDER MOUNT MODULE TO GO WITH THIS AS CHRYLER USED ON THEIR ELECTRONIC IGNITION. WELL HERE IS WHAT THIS UNIT IS. IT'S A FULLY SELF CONTAINED DISTRIBUTOR, WITH THE MODULE, ALSO CALL BRAIN BOX BUILT IN TO IT. YOU CAN GET RID OF EVERY BIT OF THAT DRIED UP WIRING MESS FROM YOUR OLD SYSTEM, INCLUDING THE BALLAST RESISTER, AND MODULE, (BRAIN BOX). ALL THIS UNIT NEEDS IS A FRESH 12 VOLT COIL, AND YOU SIMPLY HOOK UP THE TWO WIRES COMING FROM THIS DISTRIBUTOR TO THE COIL, AND THAT'S IT. NO OTHER WIRING OR COMPONENTS ARE NEEDED. THIS UNIT OPERATES THE SAME AS THE GM HEI, EXCEPT IT DOE'S NOT HAVE THE COIL BUILT IN TO IT, AND THAT'S THE WAY WE WANT IT BECAUSE A GM HEI STYLE DISTRIBUTOR WILL NOT CLEAR THE FIREWALL, NOT TO MENTION THIS HAS AN OEM APPEARANCE. EVEN IF YOU ALLREADY HAVE ELECTRONIC IGNITION, AS THE ONE DESIGNED BY CHRYSLER AROUND 1973 THIS IS FAR SUPERIOR. THE FACT THAT YOU CAN ELIMINATE THAT MESS OF DRIED OUT WIRING, BRAIN BOX, AND BALLAST RESISTOR SHOULD BE REASON ENOUGH, OH NOT TO MENTION YOUR WELL WORN DISTRIBUTOR. IF YOU ARE RUNNING A POINT STYLE DISTRIBUTOR NOW, YOUR GOING TO BE AMAZED WHEN YOU SWITCH OVER, AT THE WAY YOUR CAR STARTS, WARMS UP, AND PERFORMS. YOU SHOULD TRY THE COIL WE HAVE LISTED IN OUR OTHER LISTINGS,(SUPER E-CORE COIL), AND YOU WILL HAVE THE ULTIMATE IGNITION SYSTEM. MAKE NO MISTAKE THIS IS A FULLY SELF CONTAINED IGNITION SYSTEM, EXCEPT FOR THE COIL. CHYSLER ELECTRONIC SYSTEMS ARE PRIMITIVE COMPARED TO THIS, AND POINT STYLE DISTRIBUTORS ARE SIMPLY INSANE TO RUN. THE UNLEAD FUEL IS SO VERY POORLY IGNITED WITH POINT TYPE IGNITION. NOTICE THE CHROME BOX ON THE LOWER SIDE OF OUR DISTRIBUTOR, THAT'S WHERE THE GM STYLE MODULE IS LOCATED. THE MODULE IS NOT THE VERY SAME MODULE GM USES, BUT IT IS THE SAME DESIGN. YOU ALL VERY WELL KNOW GM HAD THAT DESIGN RIGHT OVER 30 YEARS AGO. NOW YOU CAN OPEN YOUR PLUG GAP TO AROUND 45-50 INSTEAD OF 35 IF YOUR RUNNING POINTS, AS THE SPARK THIS UNIT PRODUCES IS MANY TIMES STRONGER.

This has to be the best $69.95 you could ever spend on your point

[dwc43]

Originally Posted by peg leg

Hey, all the stuff I've heard about GM's HEI says it's junk, and prone to shorting between terminals and burning out. Am I the only one who knows this? Lots and lots of aftermarket GM Hei replacement units out there, for that very reason.
Nobody builds a better stock ignition than Mopar, and it's been that way for about 80 years.

There no good above 4000 either. A well known thing in the gm world.

[rumblefish360]

Hummmmmm, Sounds good. Self comtained 2 wire hook up. Nice.
Cheap too.
The GM, HEI can be upgraded and with a bigger cap I believe. I'm not to sure on that, but I think so.
Reguardless. It doesn't look or sound bad. So long as the module can keep up with the RPM's without a signifigent drop off.

[usdart]

Seems easy to hook up, but, it says 'NOT for Lean Burn'. Wonder what I have to disable on lean burn to make it work?

Appears it would work on lean burn as long as you disable the computer part?

[rumblefish360]

The "Lean Burn system" is all in the box on the air cleaner. It controls everything.
The mentioned distributor is stand alone. All the smog controls of the lean burn are disabled to run that distrib. It's one or the other.

[usdart]

Absoutively right.

I think by removing the Lean Burn computer from the system and adding this Distributor I should be able to re-tune and go.

[rumblefish360]

I don't think a re-tuning is needed. Perhaps a leaning out once warned. The intake and radiator heated screw in vacuum line connectors will still work. Correctly or not is something I don't know. (As in the end result via emmisions)

[usdart]

Well I brought the Volare home and got to checking closer. The lean burn is disconnected already and a Vac advance dist is in place.
This is the smoothest, quietest 318 I ever heard. The only issue I have is that it seems to be very cold natured and even when warm it doesn't have the UUMF it should. I did find a small vaccum leak at the carb. Plugged it with gorrilla glue. As soon as it dries I will retest with my vacuum gauge and see if I can finetune the timing a little. I don't want to mess with the idle adjustment because even with the A/C on you can't hear or feel the engine running sitting inside with the car in gear!
A valve cover leaks (no Big deal to fix).

I'll keep ya posted if ya like?

[rumblefish360]

Yes, please do keep us posted.
What does this mean;

even when warm it doesn't have the UUMF

[usdart]

Means acceleration

It has a severe off idle stumble when cold that diminishes as it warms but never completely goes away. You have to feather the gas pedal and hope it doesn't die.
When warm it stumbles at about 1/2" of throttle and stutters so you have to let up until it gains some speed.
Could the float level be too low? If you get into it hard it downshifts and takes off great. From a running start, but, from a stop the more pedal you use the more it stumbles. It is almost as if the primary circuit in the carb is starving but not the secondaries.
I am going to take it apart tomorrow and check the float level and blow it out etc. Also check the dist advance plates.

[rumblefish360]

Good thought there USD. Go through it all.

[oldguyalso]

So that's what it means! I always saw it as "ooomph"! LOL

[usdart]

Spelled the 'grunt' sound the best I knew how.

Wonder if it is in Webster's???????

[oldguyalso]

Don't know! I was just remembering the old comic books I used to read! LOL Course I might be remembering wrong. That was a long time ago! LOL

[usdart]

Well, what a nightmare day.
Found the accel pump torn so went for a kit. None in town. There is also no rebuilt carbs either. Found a Junk yard carb and put it on. Ran great for 5 Minutes and died. FUEL PUMP WENT OUT!!
Changed pump and start, leaks from top. Changed gasket with old one and still leaks.
Finally I was able to make an OK carb out of the two.
12 hours later and......

Seems to run OK but I am going to order a carb for next week.

Whew!!

I hope I spelled 'WHEW' right.

[rumblefish360]

He he he, looks good to me.
Good luck with the carb. 12 hour days at work I hate.
12 hour days on a car I need stink.
12 hour days on a car I'm just screwing with, he he he, now that's golden.