Adjustable strut rod adjustments

[dusterbd]

ok, so were haning the front sheetmetal now, and getting ready for the test drive. noticed while hanging the metal that the front tires are located differently in the fender openings. ok.. so that wasnt like that before. matter of fact, the drivers side front tire HIT the front edge of the wheel lip while turning. definately wasnt like that before. so i got to looking, and noticed that the amount of threads sticking out of the front nut on the strut rods was different by like 3/8 on an inch. more on the drivers side. meaning that i didnt adjust them right when i put the front end together. so to finish on the sheetmetal for the evening, i loosened the nuts, allowing the LCA to move back to center. it worked for tonight.
to make a long story short, how do i adjust these things properly? and in what order do i do things like set the ride height, toe, and strut rods?
please, help me out. and heres a picture of the design i have.

michael

[dwc43]

Set the ride height first. With the weight on the wheels just take hte slack out of the strut rods. THey don't need any tension on them. THey are only there to keep the control arm from moving under hard braking. THen set caster and camber and save toe for last.

[dusterbd]

umm...
they have a torque spec on the front nut. that i know for certain. so is it going to be trial and error on length until the wheels are centered and the nut is torqued and the bushings squished? also, how do i get them the same lenght so i can get the right caster settings?

shoulda bought the dang things new. maybe they wouldve come with directions.

Michael

[aarracer]

Hello

I would measure someone's stock configuration, adjust it accordingly, then put some used tires on and take it to a reputable alignment/frame shop to get it done correctly! Or have it put on a deck truck and do the same! You will never get it right at home!


Cheers

AARRACER

[dwc43]

Originally Posted by dusterbd

umm...
they have a torque spec on the front nut. that i know for certain. so is it going to be trial and error on length until the wheels are centered and the nut is torqued and the bushings squished? also, how do i get them the same lenght so i can get the right caster settings?

shoulda bought the dang things new. maybe they wouldve come with directions.

Michael

Yes, that nut does have a torque spec, but I thought you already had that part done and was wantingto adjust the rod. Do you need the number? You also need to torque it with weight on the wheels. Any kind of bushings, even shock bushings should be tightened with weight on the wheels to keep from deflecting them or putting them in a bind. You should be able to get it close enough to take it to an alignment shop though.

[dusterbd]

yeah, im planning on using a reputable alignment shop to do the final alignment, but i need to get it close enough to test drive it first.

the front nuts are no longer torqued. when torqued, they pull the LCA forward a little bit causing the interfderence. what i learned from another source was to loosen the front nut, st the car at ride height. torque the LCA nut. then, adjust the rear nut on the strut rod to fit snugly to the rear strut rod bushing. tighten the front, and i should be close enough that the tires dont hit, and be able to get it to the alignment shop.

this sound right to y'all?
Michael