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#1
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383 stroker for Duster
I'm going to build stroked 383 engine.
I have 70 Duster, what kind of engine combo I should build up? All hints and tips will help. Thanks Jake |
#2
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street, street/strip, allout race? a little more info as to your goals would help define the criteria to build.
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#3
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Why don't you stroke a 360 to 408 and stick with a small block, a lot less weight...
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#4
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Quote:
Jakke, whats the plan or idea you have in mind that you want out of the car. Are you looking to; Go fast, real fast? Monster torque? Hwy. gears, 3.55's or numerically lower? We need some help here because the idea of saying, "Howshould I build it will invite more replies that have nothing to do with what you may have a feel for or want. Hell, I say twin turbo it into a supercharger with a heavy shot of N02 (on allky for fuel), w/a 6 spd manual into a DANA with 3.55's for awesome top end. Hows that. Crazy huh?!?!? |
#5
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Because he also said
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Geez, kind of sensitive rumblefish... don't you think? |
#6
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No offense, But I have to agree with rumble's feelings on the topic.
It seems every guy who asks how to do something lately, get's told he should do something else. That his idea is foolish. He has said he's stroking a 383. More info as to what goals he has, what budget, what the rest of the car is set up for, would be helpful. Without knowing the goals of the car, I will suggest that going here www.440source.com will give you some good info as to what it will cost, and what is available. A starting point anyway |
#7
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If not you, then I would have said that.
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#8
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sorry vanderkwv
LOL, sorry if it seemed, well, like defensive and up-ity.
I think a mention of it is fine, but as a sole answer, I think it's wrong. But it is a problem I see on borads everywhere. A fella states he needs help building, a 318 for example. The first thing that pops up is get a 340 or 360. Lets start with why these are poor answers, lock stock and barrel. Said person is looking for help on a 318. He might not have money for a purchase of a 360 even though it can be cheap as $200, never mind $700 or so for a 340 block Getting access of extra engines may not be so easy or close Money may be tight PROUD owner of 318 wants to do more with less Wants to do work on what he has Because he wants to! Same deal with the above 383. Why not? They can be lightened very well. Right down to only having iron block as the only iron left while everything else is aluminum on the engine. With a 440 crank, it makes 425 cubes before overbore. 471 cubes with 4.15 crank 510 cubes with 4.5 stroke Superior heads everywhere with bigger cubes will hand out more power, then theres aftermarket heads that'll whoop ass over the irons. For the slight weight penalty of a big block over a small block, the potential is seriously higher for a few bucks more and the weight can be addressed well with upgraded parts you'll more than likely end up doing with a small block anyway just for handleing or drag race purposes, when you up the power well. Please do remember that I would have to call myself a small block guy. |
#9
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I was going to use 440source's kit 383->496
Car is for street and strip. edelbrock heas Rear will be 3.23 what kind of intake I should use? What kind of cam hydraulic mech? |
#10
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N02 sounds nice but those are illegal to use on street here in Finland.
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#11
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Jakke, it is still hard to suggest anything for your ride. I'm not really sure where you want to go. The Edelbrock heads are small(ish) for a 496 cube engine. I believe a porting will help alot.
From there I myself would look at a Indy single plane intake and a roller cam of about 250 duration @ .050 to start with. I believe you should look at a 950 HP Holley carb or larger, (I think larger myself, though the 950 could help for street manors) to start with. Big cubes eat up cam duration alot and easy. I'd spend the money on a roller for a max effort on torque and HP over a solid. Though a dedcent solid would not be a slouch in this combo. Extreme quick ramp solids can really perform well. I'd just rather a roller at that point. No break in time is a major key to it over a high pressure spring set up for the solid that could wipe out a cam. You would use 1 spring to break in the cam and then swap to what it should have on top afterwards. Headers I think would be a 2 inch min. |
#12
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I'm running a 383/450"(3.915 crank) stroker.For me,that combo has a CH that is easy on a street strip engine.You're going to end up with a very short piston on a 383/496 build.IMO,too short for longevity in a steet car.If you really want to do a B motor, I'd look at a 400 block with a 3.915 crank,470".On paper,these are one of the best build combos out there,and an easy 600hp with ported Eddys.
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#13
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And how would you feel about a 400 based block stroked to 500?
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#14
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Me? No change in my position,based on a 6.535 or 6.7 Chevy rod.
There are guys runing 4.25 cranks and Chevy rods in their 400's giving 512-517".Great for race,but on the street the rocking piston won't give you the longevity you'd expect,not to mention the skirts start coming out of the bottom of the bores.There's probably no savings in bobweight either by going bigger.JMO,but I'd do the 470 for an 80/20 street/strip car,which in actuality will probably end up being a 95/5 car. |
#15
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Quote:
Where do ya get the 3.90 stroke from? |
#16
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3.23 gear are going to give poor strip times. For a street/strip car, you should be looking at 3.55, 3.73, 3.91, or 4.10 gears. 3.73 would be the best, if you can find them. 4.10 gears will be revving the engine high, on the interstate.
Are you running auto or manual? A single plane intake (like the EB Torker II) is a great choice, for even A/F mixture to all cylinders. If you don't have the heads already, you may want to take a look at the Indy EZ heads. They are a little more than the EB heads; however, they are better out of the box and have more potential. Just remember that it will be a very tight fit for that engine into that engine bay. Then you will have fun with getting good headers to fit. And forget about changing the spark plugs, as you won't be able to get to them very easy. |
#17
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Quote:
'fish, The 3.915 crank that I'm using is a standard 440 source item.No machining is required on it.It has Mopar mains and Chevy rod journals.Chevy rods also use a .990 pin vs the heavier mopar one.Bobweight on my combo is 2242G,which isn't too shabby. |
#18
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Ah - haaaa, I see. So, the crank comes machined like that all ready. Ready to go for the most part. Add pistons and balance?
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#19
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Yep, for the most part,ready to go.Plus generally,there are more choices in Chevy rods and they're usually cheaper too,so you can step up to a better rod in most cases.There's also the added benefit of not having to clearance the block or the bottom of the bores with the Chevy rods.For about $600 delivered to your door,it's a no-brainer.You can get the entire rotating assembly from 440Source as well,just select the pistons from the chart and you're done.Brandon is now offering balancing now too if you wanted to go that way.
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#20
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HA ha ha, Allready balanced!?!?!? Thats a no brainer if the price is right. I'm sure even if it is close, it's worth it. It beats truckin your stuff down to the shop and returning for it later. Drop in, = no brainer.
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#21
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Came across an article on Mopar Muscle's website.
moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/mopp_0605_mopar_performance_383_stroker_engine/index.html |
#22
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place "http//www" in front of it. My post count isn't high enough to paste links.
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#23
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With huge torque I think 3.23s would be ok, just not the best for strip. How fast do you want to go?
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#24
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Jakke, are you starting from scratch (small block Duster) or do you have a core 383 to work with? Considering your location, how easy is it for you to find parts etc. in Finland? Or maybe that just isn't an issue. Could have a bearing on what your options would be.
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#25
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Thank you all for replies
I have 383 engine. We have good sources to get patrs from USA. |
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