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  #1  
Old 11-23-2007, 11:36 PM
Pie Eye Pie Eye is offline
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Default Production oil VS Synthetic?

I would like to know about preferances in engine oil. I grew up with penzoil for mopar in 60's-70's. Now I use castrol in late models but have switched to synthetic. What about for my my early model mopar small block? Weight specs? Opinions?
Tks Pie Eye
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Old 11-24-2007, 12:29 AM
wilks3 wilks3 is offline
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Pepsi or Coke?
Chevy or Ferd?
Thin crust or thick crust?
My .2 cents, I use Royal Purple in my 69 Charger,03 Dakota and John Deere riding lawn mower.
Wifes car, Valvoline High Mileage.
You can't go wrong with any oil as long as you use the right oil for the right application.
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Old 11-24-2007, 12:37 AM
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pishta pishta is offline
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Synthetic for anything except rebuild ring break in. Make sure you add some STP
oil treatment if you are running a solid cam, it replaces some of the good stuff modern oils lack for emissions.
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Old 11-24-2007, 04:46 AM
cudabob496 cudabob496 is offline
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On my 496 Cuda I've used 10-30 synthetic for years. Anything heavier than 30 wt in my opinion wastes power, since the oil pump has to pump it. I use sythetics in the engine, tranny, and rear end. Probably good for at least 20 more hp to rear wheels.
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Old 11-24-2007, 11:26 AM
peg leg peg leg is offline
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Default Synthetic

Is my choice, in every oil requirement. I use Royal Purple in the Cummins, and I'm switching to Redline next change. RP in the Durango, and both ATV's. Amsoil tranny fluid in the Cummins, Durango and the Demon. The Demon will run Valvoline 10-30 for breakin, then RP for normal driving. Amsoil tranny has the best tranny fluid rating of which I am aware. Axles also run synthetic in all of them.
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Old 11-24-2007, 12:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pishta View Post
Synthetic for anything except rebuild ring break in. Make sure you add some STP
oil treatment if you are running a solid cam, it replaces some of the good stuff modern oils lack for emissions.
break-in and high milage engines that burn a couple quarts between oil changes (expensive if synthetic).

How much STP do you put in and do you use a lighter weight oil to make up for the thickening effect of the STP goop? Did you mean solid and hydraulic cam?
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Old 11-24-2007, 06:12 PM
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pishta pishta is offline
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I meant sold lifter cams, the ones that tend to get wiped on install with modern oils. STP will recommend the proper dilution rate, but I think the added viscosity doesnt last too long. If the motor is going through a couple of quarts between oil changes, why even change the oil, just keep adding clean stuff and replacing filters ;-) I was so poor in high school that I ran Ray-Lube in my 340 Barracuda, it was recycled oil, said it right on the can and was meant for high mileage cars. Had a P-39 Air Cobra or P-51 Mustang front view on the can. It was like .79c a quart at Thriftys.
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Old 11-24-2007, 06:18 PM
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Ray Bell Ray Bell is offline
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There are big differences in oils, even within specific rating groups...

Problem is that finding out what is what is too hard. Most issues are clouded by marketing verbiage that tells you nothing.
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Old 11-24-2007, 10:35 PM
dodger1 dodger1 is offline
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Agree with Ray. Look at the additives - flat tappet cams need a zinc additive (or equivalent), rollers don't. Diesel oils had this additive until very recently. You need to go to the API site and figure out what the numbers on the can of oil mean. I don't think it is as simple as choosing between synthetic and non-synthetic oils.
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