|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
528hp/500+ lb. ft. @ 4800 rpm
UPDATE AND PIC IN POST 11
Yep, it only went to 4800 rpm on the first pull before the dyno headers failed. This was a run in on a very old set of headers that they said, over the phone, were about ready for the dumpster. I didn't catch what it was, rusty, flange weld broke, sponteneous combustion??? Anyway, this all is pretaining to my 408", Hughes Stage II ported Eddy's, 8.5:1 Diamonds, hydro roller lifters, Super Victor single plane, blow through carb, D1-SC Procharger, 7 lbs. They were going to wait till I could be there to do some power pulls so I could video it. I got the call at work that there was some bad news, my heart sunk, only to find out that thier older than Moses headers went to the big muffler shop in the sky. I am on the search for some new headers that will clear my oil pan, rear sump Moroso that is 10.5" wide. Super Comp, TTI, Doug's wont work. Anyone have suggestions for an E body w/o steering link or torsion bars? Moparts' "SuperStocker" may have a set that will work for dyno but they're not ideal size and still may not fit but we are going to try them and the primary size being a little smaller isn't a huge deal. Want 1 7/8" though. The work is being done at Southland Performance in Gray, LA. Great guys and they know Mopars. Hard to find in the Gulf South area. We are going to take it to 10 lbs. of boost and turn the water injection on and go for the big pulls next week. If the headers work. This is my first go round and feel much like I did when my wife was expecting. Waiting on the phone call. He tells me there's some problems, my heart stops. He tells me it's just the headers, my spirits lift. I was going around the shop at work and telling all the other mechanics. They were more or less congratulating me. It was much the same. I will update this thread when we do the big pull and later get the proof on here with a .jpg of the dyno sheet and hopefully a video! |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Headman Hustlers are as good as you can get for out of the box headders, you might want to consider having a custom set made for the fit and performance.
|
#3
|
||||
|
||||
I have Kook's headers here by me. Expensive suckers.
|
#4
|
|||
|
|||
What do you think Rumble? You know my plight with my oil pan width being 10.5". How do the Kook's fit down at the rear of the oilpan?
|
#5
|
||||
|
||||
Kooks are, ....a total custom. 100% custom and nothing but custom unless they have done that specific combo before. Did I mention there expensive?
|
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Other than, get another pan?
Steve Magnante of Hotrod magazine did "project lightweight 1973 duster" with a milodon rear sump pan. I've looked but can't find anything other than part 3 of the build. If you can find the project articles somewhere this will tell you which headers they used! AARRACER |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
Do you remember hich issues/years? I have subscribed to HRM for the past 7 years.
|
#8
|
||||
|
||||
I'd change the pan. The hassle of the headers is toooo much.
|
#9
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
I Did mention the project lightweight was using a Milodon rear sump pan!!! (same width as stock) google comes up with "project lightweight 73 duster" . that was the best I could find. they use the same car in their "trans brake 727" tech article though. try e-mail hot rod magazine Steve Magnante? Oil pan modifications are cheap and simple at any good sheet metal works?! If you cut it, and fit new pieces yourself, it will only take about a half hour of tig welding to finish it - good as new ? Then any header will fit. Good luck AARRACER |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
I could modify the pan but it is powdercoated and I would likely want custom built headers anyway because of the stance of the car, it is slammed on the ground pretty low. Most headers are made for stock chassis and take torsion bars and stering links into account. I don't have those components.
|
#11
|
|||
|
|||
Here is some updates. I apologize for the mixed up numbers on the first post. I recieved the initial report over the phone and the guy told me it made 518 at 4800 rpm, for one he was talking about torque and two, that wasn't even the peak. The HP was 526. It was at 34* total timing and ran at 7psi. On the next pull the header collector fell of, it was a very old rusty set of 1 7/8" dyno headers.
Yesterday, we were able to get a set of 1 5/8" Hooker Comps and changed the pan to a rear sump 360 Dak pan. We changed the timing to 36* and SOMEHOW it made 14 pounds of boost. It made 650 hp at 5800 and 600tq at 5700! Way too much! We pulled the main caps after we noticed a drop in oil pressure and found small amounts of bearing material. Theye use a really good re-useable oil filter and it caught everything before any damage was done to other components. When everything gets buttoned back up it is getting that first tune again. |
#12
|
|||
|
|||
I couldn't get the pics to reduce anymore so if you want some pics of the engine on the dyno stand and the charts email me at hotrodcarters@yahoo.com.
|
#13
|
|||
|
|||
BTW the cam is a Hughes Engines stick. http://www.hughesengines.com/partDet...1393&eTypeID=1
|
#14
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
|
#15
|
|||
|
|||
We knew we needed bigger headers than the 1 5/8 I borrowed so I was looking at a set of Hooker Super Comps but they are only 1 3/4. I was advised by a small block guru, RyanJ at Shady Dell, that it would be best to run 1 7/8 to insure no bottle neck on the exhaust.
We ended up tearing up some main bearings on our way up to 650 hp. We were running way too much timing and the water injection was getting the signal to come on from the carb hat. The signal needs to come from the plenum. The water was comming to fast to early and as you may know water doesn't compress so that resulted in 14 psi. Bad juju. We are going to remdy the water injection signal, back off the timing and get some Hedman 1 7/8 headers. |
|
|