Moparchat - Home of MOPAR enthusiasts worldwide!



Go Back   Moparchat - Home of MOPAR enthusiasts worldwide! > Technical Forums > Performance Talk

Click here to search for Mopar cars and parts for sale.


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 12-20-2007, 10:50 PM
Jack_440 Savoy Jack_440 Savoy is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: BC Canada
Posts: 329
Default Starter Relay ???

First, let me tell you that about all I know about electrical stuff is that if you stick your finger in a light socket it will Hurt. I am about to start rewiring my car and it has No wiring in it to copy. That's OK . I think that will make it easier. I have bought a wiring harness and I will work my way through. First off, I have put the battery in the trunk with a remote disconnect switch. And yes, the trunk is sealed. And the battery is in a box and is vented outside. I have 1 gage wire up to the starter. Two questions I have now. first, Do I run the cable to a starter relay or the starter first ? I would think the relay first. I have heard guy's use a Ford starter relay, Why ??? Second question, I believe I would have to run a 10 gage wire from my positive terminal battery disconnect switch to the positive side of the Alternator ??? Thanks in Advance for Any Tips :jackbox:
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 12-21-2007, 06:04 AM
cudabob496 cudabob496 is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Richland, WA
Age: 71
Posts: 2,018
Default

I put a battery in my trunk, and the cable from the positive battery terminal goes to the cutout switch (mounted by the license plate), then to the starter relay. Nothing in my setup has a wire from the battery to the alternator. I used a new Mopar starter relay. Good luck!
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 12-21-2007, 11:37 AM
peg leg peg leg is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Star, Idaho
Age: 88
Posts: 2,669
Default Relay

I believe that most starters are wired directly to the starter, then to the relay on Mopars. The relay coil puts 12 volts to the solenoid on the starter, engaging the motor and pinion to the flywheel. You don't want all that amperage through a relay. It'll cook in a heart beat.
Get a schematic for your car and follow it carefully. The large wire on the starter relay is for connection to the alternator diode bridge, and for providing current to the rest of the car.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 12-21-2007, 12:19 PM
delshin delshin is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Mililani/Hawaii
Age: 67
Posts: 108
Default

Look at this site "madelectrical.com", he has some very good information there. I have been trying to call him, but he is very busy. Your question about the ford starter relay why?? With the battery in the trunk you would have a large gage wire feeding the front of the car. This wire would always be "HOT" 12 volts energized. With the ford style starter relay out back by the battery, only when you turn the ignition switch to "start" would the large gage wire become energized to turn the starter over. You would also have to modify the starter, so you just need the large gage wire to engage the starter. I installed a jumper, at the starter from the small wire connection to the larger battery connection. When the large gage wire from the battery in the trunk is energized, it also energizes the solenoid and engages the starter. There are some other mods that must be done, for charging your battery, but check out the website, it will be very help full. Oh yeah, the website also recommends using an 8 gage wire to feed the battery, with a fusible link at the battery end to protect this wire from burning up your car, since this will be always "hot".
good luck
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 12-21-2007, 05:45 PM
John Kunkel John Kunkel is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: NorCal
Age: 80
Posts: 10,059
Default

I recognize some of the advantages of the Ford type solenoid on trunk mounted battery installations but it also complicates things on a Mopar. For example, the need for all the extra wires to the trunk, each increases the potential for shorting to ground which is the avowed advantage in the first place and it makes it harder to use the factory NSS (a separate relay is needed for that).

I don't see a properly installed/shielded large gauge battery feed cable being all that much of a problem.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 12-22-2007, 02:02 AM
Jack_440 Savoy Jack_440 Savoy is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: BC Canada
Posts: 329
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by cudabob496 View Post
I put a battery in my trunk, and the cable from the positive battery terminal goes to the cutout switch (mounted by the license plate), then to the starter relay. Nothing in my setup has a wire from the battery to the alternator. I used a new Mopar starter relay. Good luck!
I thought the reason for the wire from the disconnect switch to the coil was that in case of a crash where a stuck throttle could keep the engine running even when the ignition switch is turn off. But like I was saying I know Nothing about electrics I am thinking about NHRA rules I may take it to the track if I ever get it finished
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 12-22-2007, 04:23 PM
John Kunkel John Kunkel is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: NorCal
Age: 80
Posts: 10,059
Default

If the battery is trunk mounted with a kill switch in the trunk and the rest of the electrical system is unaltered, activating the kill switch won't kill the engine because the alternator will continue powering the electrical system forward of the kill switch.

By wiring the alternator directly to the battery side of the kill switch, the alternator's output will be interrupted when the kill switch is activated.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 12-23-2007, 02:41 AM
Jack_440 Savoy Jack_440 Savoy is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: BC Canada
Posts: 329
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by John Kunkel View Post
If the battery is trunk mounted with a kill switch in the trunk and the rest of the electrical system is unaltered, activating the kill switch won't kill the engine because the alternator will continue powering the electrical system forward of the kill switch.

By wiring the alternator directly to the battery side of the kill switch, the alternator's output will be interrupted when the kill switch is activated.
Right, So I just run a 10 gauge from the alternator positive to the battery side of the kill switch. Thats what I will do. But, would that not mean the alternator would be wired directly to the battery ??? I don't understand it . I must be misunderstanding something ???
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 12-23-2007, 08:00 PM
John Kunkel John Kunkel is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: NorCal
Age: 80
Posts: 10,059
Default

On a stock front mounted battery installation the large threaded lug on the alternator is wired directly to the battery via the ammeter, trunk mounted needs to be the same but the ammeter is optional.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Starter relay question cudacarl Performance Talk 15 01-09-2013 07:25 AM
Starter relay? FastEddie Performance Talk 6 07-21-2006 11:13 PM
Starter Relay getoutadodge Ram Truck Chat 0 07-26-2005 11:16 PM
starter relay 71SATELITE Performance Talk 12 08-28-2004 06:25 PM
Starter Relay MikelBeck Performance Talk 2 04-03-2000 04:17 PM




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:46 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
. . . . .