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#1
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Starter Relay ???
First, let me tell you that about all I know about electrical stuff is that if you stick your finger in a light socket it will Hurt. I am about to start rewiring my car and it has No wiring in it to copy. That's OK . I think that will make it easier. I have bought a wiring harness and I will work my way through. First off, I have put the battery in the trunk with a remote disconnect switch. And yes, the trunk is sealed. And the battery is in a box and is vented outside. I have 1 gage wire up to the starter. Two questions I have now. first, Do I run the cable to a starter relay or the starter first ? I would think the relay first. I have heard guy's use a Ford starter relay, Why ??? Second question, I believe I would have to run a 10 gage wire from my positive terminal battery disconnect switch to the positive side of the Alternator ??? Thanks in Advance for Any Tips :jackbox:
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#2
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I put a battery in my trunk, and the cable from the positive battery terminal goes to the cutout switch (mounted by the license plate), then to the starter relay. Nothing in my setup has a wire from the battery to the alternator. I used a new Mopar starter relay. Good luck!
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#3
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Relay
I believe that most starters are wired directly to the starter, then to the relay on Mopars. The relay coil puts 12 volts to the solenoid on the starter, engaging the motor and pinion to the flywheel. You don't want all that amperage through a relay. It'll cook in a heart beat.
Get a schematic for your car and follow it carefully. The large wire on the starter relay is for connection to the alternator diode bridge, and for providing current to the rest of the car. |
#4
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Look at this site "madelectrical.com", he has some very good information there. I have been trying to call him, but he is very busy. Your question about the ford starter relay why?? With the battery in the trunk you would have a large gage wire feeding the front of the car. This wire would always be "HOT" 12 volts energized. With the ford style starter relay out back by the battery, only when you turn the ignition switch to "start" would the large gage wire become energized to turn the starter over. You would also have to modify the starter, so you just need the large gage wire to engage the starter. I installed a jumper, at the starter from the small wire connection to the larger battery connection. When the large gage wire from the battery in the trunk is energized, it also energizes the solenoid and engages the starter. There are some other mods that must be done, for charging your battery, but check out the website, it will be very help full. Oh yeah, the website also recommends using an 8 gage wire to feed the battery, with a fusible link at the battery end to protect this wire from burning up your car, since this will be always "hot".
good luck |
#5
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I recognize some of the advantages of the Ford type solenoid on trunk mounted battery installations but it also complicates things on a Mopar. For example, the need for all the extra wires to the trunk, each increases the potential for shorting to ground which is the avowed advantage in the first place and it makes it harder to use the factory NSS (a separate relay is needed for that).
I don't see a properly installed/shielded large gauge battery feed cable being all that much of a problem. |
#6
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Quote:
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#7
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If the battery is trunk mounted with a kill switch in the trunk and the rest of the electrical system is unaltered, activating the kill switch won't kill the engine because the alternator will continue powering the electrical system forward of the kill switch.
By wiring the alternator directly to the battery side of the kill switch, the alternator's output will be interrupted when the kill switch is activated. |
#8
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#9
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On a stock front mounted battery installation the large threaded lug on the alternator is wired directly to the battery via the ammeter, trunk mounted needs to be the same but the ammeter is optional.
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