Looking for opinions

[pw360]

I am new to this site. I have a 79 Dodge power wagon with a 360, 4 sp manual & full time 4wd. I rebuilt engine and bored .030" over and installed summit 6900 cam. It has an Edelbrock performer intake and holley 600 vac carb. I am having alot of trouble with carb, keeps flooding and running rich when not flooding. It will run with idle screws all the way in. fuel press is at 7-8 psi. Power valve is not blown. I got carb from a friend and he always had problems with it. I am considering replacing carb with different brand. Any suggestions??

[daryl2399]

have you check to see what size jets are in it? how long did it set before you got it? with the fuel we have today it does not take very long to make a mess. I buy a new throttle body every spring because alot of times you just can not clean them out an I dont want to fight with it

[rusty duster]

Try running fuel at 5lbs. and see if that stops the flooding problem.Make sure the power valve is still good.Float levels and the floods to see if they still float.

[valiant64]

I would find out the problem with that carb ASAP. You dont want a bunch of raw fuel washing out the cylinders. I think if somebody gave me a carb that they had problems with, I would be leery about running it without checking it out thoroughly. Are you running an electric pump or hi pressure mechanical? Sounds a bit high for a mild engine. Since you're running the Performer intake, you might wanna check out Demon Sizzler's website for Thermoquad carbs. He's good about answering e-mails & is very helpful. The Performer intake works with either a square or spreadbore carb, which the Thermoquad is. Any carb will work, but I think you will like this carb if you run it. Good luck

[pw360]

I rebuilt carb with holley kit and it ran great for a few months, exactly what it did for my friend. Jets are same numbers as what is recommended on holley charts. Fuel pump is stock pump from local parts store.

[cudabob496]

Welcome, new guy!

[Tarrbabe]

Diagnosing carb problems without seeing the carb is strictly guess work. Start with the basics. Check all linkages to ensure they are doing what they are designed for. I have a Holley in front of me that the linkage that closes the back barrels wasn't forcing the back barrels closed thus a massive vacuum leak at idle. Also upon inspection, there was what appeared to be a small tree limb inside the gas line. I know that sounds stupid, but people do some really stupid things. This carb was a gift from a guy I work with and he didn't want to fool with it anymore.
When you get a use part you don't know what has been done to it and with carb's everyone wants to think they can do it with no training or experience. Expect that someone did something wrong already.
Some carbs have warped parts sometimes that have to be checked. Throttle shafts have to be checked for wear.
When a carb kit helps for a while and then it runs like crap again, it's usually vacuum leaks that the gaskets have give up on. Sometimes it's the floats that aren't floating because of leaks or saturation. In this carb's case, it appears someone put the wrong needle/seat valve in it, as it will not adjust from being unable to stop the fuel flow.
You really have to go back to basics and start from scratch to find the problems. Or get a new carb.
I once heard it said: The Devil is in the details.

[crisser]

Trash is the BIGGEST enemy of a Holley. Make sure the air bleeds are not clogged. This WILL cause a rich condition that jetting and power valves will not cure. Some times, just taking the carb apart and blowing all the passages with compressed air will do the trick. An old used holley that sits around usually gets varnished up and that`s what causes most problems.

[451Mopar]

The carb Float may have a small leak letting some fuel into the float and messing up the fuel level.

[rampage_82]

I'd be the first to blame the Power Valve, but as stated above, I can't tell without seeing it. Just throw an Eddy AVS on it and be done.... hahaha...

[crisser]

Originally Posted by rampage_82

I'd be the first to blame the Power Valve, but as stated above, I can't tell without seeing it. Just throw an Eddy AVS on it and be done.... hahaha...

True. But a blast of air down the air bleeds might be all it needs.

[pw360]

I have not had any time to do anything on carb lately. I will try to check air bleeds and all other passages but I'm still convinced this carb is junk. I thought I could clean it up, check it over, rebuilt it with a genuine holley kit and get it to work but it did not!

[drag duster]

Look For Trash/rust In Your Tank,most Of The Time Thats It--by The Way Your Carb. Is Way Too Small For Your Engine (trying To Suck Too Much Air Through Too Tiny A Hole) & Not Letting The Carb. Remain On The Idle Circuit When Trying To Idle. Stick W/a Holley,theyre Simple & Hard To Beat,but You Need A Lot More Cfm,our Duster Is Stock 340 W/484 Cam/edel. Perf. & We Run An 850 Dp.

[pw360]

I have been checking carb sites that have guidelines for cfm's. I also have manuals on carbs and they all say that @ 600 cfm carbs will work on stock engines to moderately modified engines. I still have not had time to remove carb and go through it to see if anything is plugged or restricted. The last time I had carb apart floats were not leaking, I know that they can be now. I have checked float levels and they are just at bottom of hole when engine is running. I was also wondering if t-quads will work on edelbrock performer intakes without an adapter.

[Rigormortor]

Originally Posted by pw360

I am new to this site. I have a 79 Dodge power wagon with a 360, 4 sp manual & full time 4wd. I rebuilt engine and bored .030" over and installed summit 6900 cam. It has an Edelbrock performer intake and holley 600 vac carb. I am having alot of trouble with carb, keeps flooding and running rich when not flooding. It will run with idle screws all the way in. fuel press is at 7-8 psi. Power valve is not blown. I got carb from a friend and he always had problems with it. I am considering replacing carb with different brand. Any suggestions??

Since it will run with the rich/lean screws all the way in says the carb has major problems, you can either rebuild it or replace it, of course the rebuild route will be alot cheaper. I would rebuild it.