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  #1  
Old 01-02-2008, 09:37 PM
rampage_82 rampage_82 is offline
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Default Yet another quandary, any ideas????

Ok well I'm still bench racing, but I'm reading and thinking about my new motor. Now I was planning on using a Pete Jackson type dual idler gear drive. But I got to reading in my book, and it says that some cons to a gear drive, is that it can send vibrations through the valvetrain and kill the valve springs!!! Also it says to not run the dual idler set up, because you will get a variable timing fluctuation. Also I will have line bored my block twice now, and I don't know what kind of hassle it is to have the idler / cam/ crank gears machined. The book recomends to run the fixed idler setup, but I can't necessarily afford the $600 bucks it takes to do that, especially if it kills my valvesprings.

Now onto chains. I am not a fan of timing chains, but if they're the better option I suppose I will again. I've been running Cloyes full roller chains, but they always have slack in them. I've read good reviews on the Rollermaster chains that are built in Australia, but I've no idea where to buy them. So what would you guys do?????

Thanks.
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  #2  
Old 01-02-2008, 09:44 PM
crisser crisser is offline
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How far have you line bored the block? Find out and get an undersized chain to fit it. Screw the gear drive.
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  #3  
Old 01-03-2008, 12:14 AM
OHD OHD is offline
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Get a Jesel belt drive.
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  #4  
Old 01-03-2008, 01:21 AM
rampage_82 rampage_82 is offline
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Ok well I would get a belt drive, fortunately I live on a cop's salary, and I can't afford the $700 for the belt drive, nor the $600 for the fixed idler. So I'm kinda limited to the Chain drives, or the dual idler... Sorry, unless someone would like to make a donation to the PCTTR Foundation (Poor Cop Trying To Race). LOL
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  #5  
Old 01-03-2008, 02:43 AM
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ehostler ehostler is offline
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Rollmaster is the best choice.

Here is info from their website

Nickels Performance Warehouse Ph 423 391 0032 Fax 423 391 0208 TN.
Crane Cams FL Ph 904 252 1151 Fax 904 248 0138 CA.
Engine Rebuilders Warehouse FL Ph 954 792 9702 Fax 954 792 1757 FL.
Per-Fit Corporation MI Ph 616 247 6572 Fax 616 247 4965

These distributors purchase directly from our Australian Wholesalers
CV Products Ph 336 472 2242 Fax 336 472 2204 NC.
Scogg & Dickey Ph 800 456 0211 Fax 806 798 4086 TX
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Old 01-03-2008, 03:20 AM
rampage_82 rampage_82 is offline
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Ok just by looking at side by side pics of the timing sets, the Rollermaster and the one sold by 440source seem to be the exact same unit. 440 source even states that their chain is "Australian made". Could this be a Rollermaster? 440source even sells them with the .005 undersized chain...
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Old 01-03-2008, 11:34 AM
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rumblefish360 rumblefish360 is offline
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Get a timing chain tensioner through your local Chrysler dealer. That'll fix timing flux and keep the chain snug through many miles.
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Old 01-03-2008, 04:14 PM
drag duster drag duster is offline
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Default How Hot Is It??

Quote:
Originally Posted by rampage_82 View Post
Ok just by looking at side by side pics of the timing sets, the Rollermaster and the one sold by 440source seem to be the exact same unit. 440 source even states that their chain is "Australian made". Could this be a Rollermaster? 440source even sells them with the .005 undersized chain...
WHAT KIND OF COMPRESSION ARE YOU TALKING, & HOW MANY RPM'S,IF NEITHER ARE EXCESSIVE STOCK MOPAR STUFF WILL FILL THE BILL JUST FINE
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Old 01-03-2008, 05:24 PM
hotrod7043 hotrod7043 is offline
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Cloyes stuff alwas worked good for me , had a Hex adjust in my 452 with big compresssion never a problem.
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  #10  
Old 01-03-2008, 05:43 PM
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pishta pishta is offline
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Dual idler is not preffered for stock car or oval track racing or endurance racing as it does have the vibration transmission issue, but so does the single idler due to the gear on gear contact. I dont know where they get the dual idler timing fluctuation, the only thing I can think of running one (I do) is that you have a very slight drive timing difference betweendrive timing and coast timing as the dual idler has a drive gear and an idle/coast gear. Under load, the drive gear takes the transmission, under off throttle or coast the other idle gear takes the transmission. kinda hard to explain but the idlers are full floating an have a slight and I mean slight slack between them one takes the drive off the crank, and one takes the drive off the cam depending on which is rotating faster. My timing is rock solid under both rev up and down, way under a degree difference between rev up and down, now a chain will whip when you go up and down no matter who makes it unless you run a small block tensioner system, dont know how you can adapt it though. You will have to get a special undersized crank gear for the line bored motor. I would just go with a double roller, not even an Oz piece. Mud bogs are short in duration, right? and no killer RPM's, I would not worry too much about it but the gear drives are very tough and the harmonics will not kill anything but a endurance or oval track race motor.
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Old 01-03-2008, 07:57 PM
rampage_82 rampage_82 is offline
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Ok well this is definitely not an endurance type motor. If I were to run the dual idler, where would I find the undersized crank gear? The most RPM's this motor will ever see is like 6000 (That is where I shift). BTW it will be about 11.5.1 comp ratio, and be a 496 stroker, with a Hughes Solid Lifter camshaft 4248BS3, and fully maxed out 906 heads (Built by Dan Dvorak)
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Old 01-03-2008, 08:07 PM
drag duster drag duster is offline
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Default go stock

stock equipment will be fine
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  #13  
Old 01-04-2008, 01:16 AM
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pishta pishta is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pishta View Post
Dual idler is not preffered for stock car or oval track racing or endurance racing as it does have the vibration transmission issue, but so does the single idler due to the gear on gear contact. I dont know where they get the dual idler timing fluctuation, the only thing I can think of running one (I do) is that you have a very slight drive timing difference betweendrive timing and coast timing as the dual idler has a drive gear and an idle/coast gear. Under load, the drive gear takes the transmission, under off throttle or coast the other idle gear takes the transmission. kinda hard to explain but the idlers are full floating an have a slight and I mean slight slack between them one takes the drive off the crank, and one takes the drive off the cam depending on which is rotating faster. My timing is rock solid under both rev up and down, way under a degree difference between rev up and down, now a chain will whip when you go up and down no matter who makes it unless you run a small block tensioner system, dont know how you can adapt it though. You will have to get a special undersized crank gear for the line bored motor. I would just go with a double roller, not even an Oz piece. Mud bogs are short in duration, right? and no killer RPM's, I would not worry too much about it but the gear drives are very tough and the harmonics will not kill anything but a endurance or oval track race motor.
This picture explains it in more detail http://www.dieselservices.com/images...stallation.pdf
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