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  #1  
Old 01-04-2008, 03:05 AM
swags63 swags63 is offline
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Question 440 Source???

Does anyone here use 440 SOURCE for parts. I have never used them and but their prices seem assume. Also I was looking at their 440 STEALTH aluminum cylinder heads? Any in put????
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  #2  
Old 01-04-2008, 03:13 AM
DartGT66 DartGT66 is offline
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I have used some 440 source parts, cranks, rods, dampers etc. I have been happy with them, they are cost wrothy aprts in to the intended applications. Like all new parts, they should be checked before using. Their heads are not being delivered yet, but they should be about equal performance wise as the mopar performance "452" aluminum heads. So basically same performance level head as Edelbrock RPM, but with straight plugs like in the factory heads. I should have three sets coming for some prep work once they become available. The first production sets should be ready for delivery within a few weeks, but the per order waiting list may be pretty long.
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  #3  
Old 01-04-2008, 05:25 AM
cudabob496 cudabob496 is offline
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Heard nothing but good.
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  #4  
Old 01-04-2008, 11:56 PM
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mopower04 mopower04 is offline
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Biggrin 440 source

i havent build the engine yet, in the process now but i've purchsed their i beam rods, arp main bolts, flexplate, and i plan on getting more from them in the near future. their tech guys have been very helpful to me in deciding parts and all seem to know what the are doing and the ladies that answer the phones are also very polite and seem to enjoy their job unlike alot of people that answer phones. thats my .02
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  #5  
Old 01-05-2008, 01:59 AM
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ehostler ehostler is offline
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Here's a link to a recent discussion about 440source

http://www.moparchat.com/forums/showthread.php?t=108243
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  #6  
Old 01-05-2008, 08:59 AM
OHD OHD is offline
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440 source parts are = or < than OEM stuff in quality, sizing, and weights and far inferior to premium equiptment available.

If you have the ability to check and correct any size or weight deficiences thay are a good starting point.

440 is the scat/eagle/cat type part supplier for the low budget mopar builder.

The concern is that with the gamble on the price of the corrective machine work added to their initial cost, would one be better off starting with premium equiptment that is stronger?

Only you can answer that....
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  #7  
Old 01-05-2008, 06:24 PM
machinist 48 machinist 48 is offline
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got my first look at a 440 source kit thursday all of it looks good I did not get to mic any of it but the guy that did sayed it was sweet nothing to mess with put it to gether and roll guess we will see going to start to put it together monday
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  #8  
Old 01-06-2008, 01:19 AM
Dave 572 Dave 572 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OHD View Post
The concern is that with the gamble on the price of the corrective machine work added to their initial cost, would one be better off starting with premium equiptment that is stronger?

Only you can answer that....
OHD advocates the use of an $1800 Callies cranks,Oliver-class rods,and Forged CP or Diamond pistons for stock rebuilds.I don't.Nor do I advocate the use of 40 year old fatiqued parts.

OTOH,he's right about the corrective work.I've got an early 440Source crank that I feel needs to be turned down because there's .001" of taper across a few mains.Cost of the crank was $600 to my door,plus another $125 to have it turned when I decide to use it.I'm still about $1000 ahead though.

I'd also look at the K1 parts.Also Chinese but finished here.
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  #9  
Old 01-06-2008, 05:23 AM
namvet67a1f namvet67a1f is offline
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TURNING down the crank ? ...who here has experimented with much smaller mains and rod bearings(30 or so) for less drag ?
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  #10  
Old 01-06-2008, 11:20 AM
OHD OHD is offline
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"OHD advocates the use of an $1800 Callies cranks" blah blah

That is incorrect, I use Billet Winberg, Velasco, Kellog, or Bryant with all mesurements/weights specified prior to purchasing and they still need tweaking, sometimes, to use.

(One of our billet cranks racked up 12000 miles in the UPS system getting it perfect.)

We usualy aim for 1100-2500 HP, some way more, so we need good cranks.

NO crank 440/Scat/Eagle/Cat ever sells will be as strong or have the hardness.

I would rather spend 2500-3000 new or 1200 used to get one once, than 1000 and tear down over and over to correct broken parts, resulting a higher overall cost.

As for production rods Manley pro I beams and GRP aluminum are at the top of the heap currently, with Crower and Cunningham titanium being the cream of the crop..

Pistons, I always use Wiseco Custom made to specs...

High revving Hemis are test pigs that like to break parts and are good test beds for the performance engine field. Most aftermarket cos, cheapen up and TRY to copy the strength of the parts...

Then let the public "discover" their deficiencies.
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  #11  
Old 01-06-2008, 11:22 AM
OHD OHD is offline
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who here has experimented with much smaller mains and rod bearings (30 or so) for less drag ?

ANY crank more than 10/10 goes into the bargain basement bin...
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  #12  
Old 01-06-2008, 02:10 PM
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Again, buy the right parts for your build/use. 440source parts are great for the guy that is only going to make 700hp. If you are wanting to make over 1,000hp, then OHD is right.

As most of us are building these engines for mostly street use, It is doubtful that any of us will be needing/wanting anything over 700hp. So, again, 440source has the right parts for the right price.

OHD needs to stop assuming that anyone that is stroking an engine is after a 2,000hp engine.
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  #13  
Old 01-06-2008, 11:30 PM
namvet67a1f namvet67a1f is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OHD View Post
who here has experimented with much smaller mains and rod bearings (30 or so) for less drag ?

ANY crank more than 10/10 goes into the bargain basement bin...
I am not talking about using a junk crank.......something that has been subjected to a blown or smoked motor.


The question still stands .... what would the horsepower gains be by using a 30 under crank ....in say a 5-700 hp 440 ?
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  #14  
Old 01-07-2008, 09:58 AM
OHD OHD is offline
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rolleyes2

what would the horsepower gains be by using a 30 under crank

I do not use any crank in any motor (except maybe a real rare antique motor like a 40K Scripps Howard) that are turned more than 10/10. Get a replacement.

If a crank is less than 10 on a journal or 2 weld it back to std....or send it to the big grave yard in the sky....(But I usually am involved in PERFORMANCE enhancing rebuilds.....not JC Whitney, dirt floor, bolt buckets.)


Performance gain from turning a crank????

Same as changing the color of the Christmas tree hanging from your rear view mirror.

none zero nada nothing
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  #15  
Old 01-07-2008, 12:36 PM
bobr bobr is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ehostler View Post
Again, buy the right parts for your build/use. 440source parts are great for the guy that is only going to make 700hp. If you are wanting to make over 1,000hp, then OHD is right.

As most of us are building these engines for mostly street use, It is doubtful that any of us will be needing/wanting anything over 700hp. So, again, 440source has the right parts for the right price.

OHD needs to stop assuming that anyone that is stroking an engine is after a 2,000hp engine.

Exactly correct. 440Source is not for guys with over 1000 h.p. in mind. It is perfect for a 7-800 h.p. build which is more than most of us will ever need. Like OHD said himself, adjustments are a possibility on any price range crank-not just the budget ones. -Bob
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  #16  
Old 01-07-2008, 09:43 PM
namvet67a1f namvet67a1f is offline
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NO need for the rolleyes ... OHD.

Then those shops who report that running the smaller mains and chebbie rod journals on a 400 stroker motor and say that doing this to make more power are full of hooey ?
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  #17  
Old 01-08-2008, 01:50 AM
451Mopar 451Mopar is offline
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I plan to purchase a 440 Source 500 cid stroker kit for the 400 block, with a few upgrades over the basic kit.
I was concerned about the quality of their kits, but I spoke to two friends who are running their stroker kits in their cars, and they haven't had any problems. They are probbly pushing near 600 HP, and I plan to be right at 700 HP max.
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  #18  
Old 01-08-2008, 02:06 AM
DartGT66 DartGT66 is offline
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440 source is pretty honest in telling what applications their parts are intended to. They are not selling those parts as full boogie race parts, and at least to me they told to find something better unless I feel that Eagle or Scat stuff should work too. I'm very happy that these low price parts are available; ten years ago if you wanted to build a powerful stroker BB, the MP crank was 1000+$, Childs & Albert steel rods were 1200$, you needed custom pistons, close to 1000$ overall, and you have the same amount of stuff you now get for 1000+$. Once they get their heads on the market, and later this year new blocks, the mopar BB will be one of the least expensive street performance engines to build.

Smaller bearing journals are usually used to reduce the journal speed at high rpm engines. It's not that much done for power, than it is to keep oil between teh bearing and the journal. Reducing the journal size .030" for power gains is totally useless. You must be starting to be on the top of the game in angine building, when you have to start thinking about this kind of stuff. For at least 99.99% of the builders it's not a factor that separates good engines from bad engines.
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  #19  
Old 01-08-2008, 02:15 AM
namvet67a1f namvet67a1f is offline
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THX 66 ... you answered my question very nicely.
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