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#1
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Oil pump priming rod ... ?
..what do you use ...if anything ?
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#2
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Mopar Performance P4286800 and low rev electric drill. Has to be kept centered not to damage the intermediate shaft bushing.
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#3
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You can make one yourself. If you have an old oil pump drive W/ the dist gear on it, take a hack saw & cut a slot between the teeth. Then take a wide chissel and give it a shot in the cut (between the teeth) it will split the gear & then you will have the shaft w/ the hex end. Put a worm type hose clamp on the end w/ the slot get a flat washer & slide it on the shaft up against the hose clamp. (the washer it to prevent the hose clamp from chewing up your bushing in the block) slide the shaft into your block, engaging the oil pump. Take an old flat blade screwdriver and cut off the handle. chuck the screwdriver into a drill. Insert it through the distributer boss in the block fitting the blade into your modified shaft. Spin the drill (clockwise for A engines, counterclockwise for B engines) Make sure you have the engine filled w/ oil & the oil filter (prefilled w/ oil) screwed on. As you spin the drill have an assistant turn over the engine w/ a breaker bar. When primed the drill will bog down (dont burn out your drill!)
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#4
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I made one out of a olds-mo-pile oil pump hex drive. Same size hex as a mopar. Welded on a piece of 3/8 rod, adjusted till it was strait. Cost, nothing, worked great. Could use part of the hex off the right sized allen wrench too.
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#5
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thats what I used also, 'cept I used an old RB shaft I had laying around. I knocked out the roll pin for the gear & removed it. Then welded on a piece of 3/8 roundstock. As said before, its important for this rod to be straight or it can damage the dist drive bushing. I also like to fill the oil pump with vaseline before firing. Hope this helps.
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#6
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Ford oil pump rod is hex for the length of the rod. And lots available at the junk yard considering it's ford.
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#7
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Quote:
I am in-process of running-off some rods(will be available in regular steel, stainless steel and aluminum) ....... WITH a PVC coating on the rod to prevent damage to that bushing. |
#8
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I used a length of same-size brass hex stock. Won't hurt the bushing, chucks into a drill (better to use an air powered drill as an electric may not have enough torque) and cost maybe $2.00
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#9
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Quote:
$2.00 for the rod ?..... may I ask where you get this for that kind of money?? |
#10
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Last time I looked, brass was softer than the bronze alloy I think is used for that bushing. As for the $2.00 cost - I bought that about 10 years ago - think it was Acklands (a large industrial supply house) so perhaps my memory is being selective. $3.00 maybe??
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#11
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OK guys - This is your fair warning. The argument ends here. Any further argument will result in the thread being closed. If the argument continues into other threads/forums, I will get with the admin and possibley have people banned.
MOD |
#12
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THANK YOU Ed ... for cleaning-up OFF topic jabs.
dodger1...... the samples that I am having run off are being done in the THREE above mentioned materials. Brass was not even offered ! .... Now if the brass is softer than the bushing itself ...I would be concerned with the possibility of the brass rod itself twisting ... or the hex shape spinning and shearing-off in the pump or drill motor. Do you know the ONE that I did not "do" ? ... that was TITANIUM. The cost of the raw rod was UNreal. |
#13
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namvet, the brass hex rod I bought was selected from the stock shapes and materials carried by that supplier, and it fit into a 3/8 drill chuck. I doubt the electric drill I used first, nor the air drill I used last month, would have enough torque to break it off, but I'll allow that the air drill might be strong enough. Long story short, worked for me, bushing is fine near as I can tell. This store in Seattle will charge you $5 to $7 for a foot of brass hex stock between 3/8" and 5/8", not much more for longer lengths.
OnlineMetals.com |
#14
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THX for the contact on the material ..... I have yet to buy the rod for the main run.
I am going to choose to put the thick PVC coating on the rod. The reason ? .... to be as "safe" as possible. I know people(me too) that I have run this pre-oiling operation for 5 or so minutes(or more) while they bar-over the crank. It will cost a little more to do-it this way .... but the only real competition for this is a piece on eBay ... quite a bit fancier than a simple rod. The BIN price ?....with 6$ shipping ?? ..... for almost 20$ !! This part here will be nicer and a HELL of alot cheaper. |
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