|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Solid roller for big block
I'd like to know if there is anyone offering a 236/244 @ 0.050 and .55" lift in a solid lifter roller cam for a big block. This is my first shot at posting, hope it works.
Thanks |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Comp Cams has one in the catalog that is close. 288 (244 @.050) & .550 lift. Maybe too much duration on the intake for what you're looking for though. Maybe call a cam vendor & have one ground for your app. if you can't find an off the shelf grind.
|
#3
|
|||
|
|||
In my 496 street Cuda I have a Crower solid roller, 254/258 duration at .050, and .600/.625 lift. Great on the street. Idles great, and mega power! Talk to a cam vendor tech guy to make sure you select the right cam.
|
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Why those specific numbers? What is your combo? -Bob |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Big block roller
Thanks for the replies. The engine I'm working on is a .30 over 440 in a 1967 Coronet. With the current setup it runs 12.4 @ 3500ft. The car is mostly a street machine with a mild hydraulic Hughes. I drive it on the street and my daughter drives it in brackets. We had a good season last year, she's a very good driver but now wants to go faster, so I want to pump it up a bit. Looks like a roller is the way to go. The car still needs to pass smog here in Idaho to maintain registration. I don't want to lose my street car. I'm going to tear the engine down to look it all over, so now's a good time to change the cam. It has flat top Ross pistons and Edelbrock Rpm Performer heads, for a static compression ratio of 9.5:1. The intake is a dual plane Edelbrock Rpm and the carb is a Barry Grant 825 race demon. I have an MSD ignition, the distributor is welded all in and I have been running the timing at 36, shifting at 6000. The exhaust is 2" hooker super comps, gears are 3.73, auto tranny with manual reverse. Right now it has a 10" 3200 stall converter, but I'm switching to an 8". I know this converter will be really loose on the street but with a cooler I think I can get by. The reason I posted the earlier cam specs is I'm hoping to get max lift with min duration (overlap kills the smog ratios) and have everything still work and stay together. I figure I can back off the lash and timing to help pass smog. I know it's not the best comb but it's always give and take with street/strip. Just a father trying to help his daughter go faster.
Thanks Charlie |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Passing a smog test throws a wrench into things. You may have to get into a hydraulic roller setup for what you are trying to do as there are more "smog friendly" grinds available. Crane has some good street hyd roller grinds. Call them for recommendations. -Bob
|
#7
|
|||
|
|||
I suggest, contact Straightline Performance/Scott Brown. He is very good with cam designs, and has gobs of experience with different street rollers for mopar BB's, both hydraulic and solid. As far as I've understood, despite of quitting it as a fulltime job, he still sells parts http://www.straightline-perf.com/
|
#8
|
||||
|
||||
Scotty quit what!?!?!?
bobr has an excellent suggestion as well. Crane cams has alot of split duration cams and like most big manufactures, will custom grind one to your specs or help you in getting what ou want. The cost of a custom is really no more than one off the shelf. Oh, Welcome aborad Charlie! |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
I haven't been in touch with Scott since last summer, but read this on the straightline web page:
A message from Scott Brown:I have enjoyed being involved in the Chrysler community for the last several years. I have made many friends, and have been involved in many exciting projects. I have recently accepted a position at VT Competition Engines. Although their focus is primarily Modular Ford Engines, they work on all types of engines and vehicles, and are involved in many high level projects that are powered by Mod Motors. Their facility and their employees are top notch, and they turn out an excellent product. Their two machinists have nearly 70 years experience between the two of them, as well as great support staff. Even though I am exploring a new direction in employment, my intent is to continue to be involved in the Mopar community. With VTs quality staff and exceptional machine shop, I will continue to offer the same great quality products I always have, with more machining capabilities, and hopefully faster turnaround and better service. In addition, with the pooling of our suppliers, more great products will soon follow. I had hoped to make this transition seamless, however it has been somewhat rocky as it has taken more time than I anticipated to get myself acclimated to the work environment here at VT, and familiarize myself with the projects they have under way. I sincerely apologize that this transition did not go smoother. Eventually, I will get everything on track and things will move forward. All orders placed on the Straightline Performance website after October 22, 2007 will be processed through VT competition Engine Development. My new contact information is: VT Competition Engine Development 1426 Legacy Parkway #B Lansing, MI 48911 [url]www.vtcompetitionengines.com[/url |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
Big block roller
Thanks for all the help. Looks like my design is a little unconventional. It's nice to have a sounding board like this. I'll let you know how everything turns out.
Thanks Charlie |
#11
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
What's unusual is that you have to smog test a car that old. Man, they say we Californian's have it bad. Out here anything older than 1973 is smog test exempt. -Bob |
#12
|
|||
|
|||
The smog rules here are pretty strange. I'm in the only county in the state that requires a smog test. There is no visual inspection for this old of a car, but it must pass the sniffer. The ratios are prorated to year of production, they get a little more lax for older cars. If you fail the test the most you have to spend for repairs is $200. So, screw it, I'm just going to put the car together the way I want. If it fails smog, I'll just go down and buy a 1050 dominator and show the smog boys the receipt. I need one for the track anyway. I'm building a 496 stroker for my son's 70 Roadrunner, I can use the carb for that. I received an Email from djswwg who has a cam I'm interested in. Since I'm new to the board I have'nt been able to reply. Rules say I need 25 posts. If any of you guys know him would you let him know I'm interested in his cam.
Thanks Charlie |
#13
|
|||
|
|||
Hello cday1014; I received a message from ehostler that you have been unsuccessfull trying to reach me. try djswwg@yahoo.com thanks,..djs
|
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Solid roller questions. Please help!! | ewolfe | Drag Racing Forum | 4 | 07-24-2007 03:28 PM |
big block solid roller cam. | knighttruck | Parts Wanted | 0 | 02-27-2006 11:22 PM |
How much HP does a hyd. roller give up to a solid roller cam? | Rob Voyles CA | Performance Talk | 6 | 12-21-2003 11:26 PM |
solid roller lifters for R" block | jerry anderson | Performance Talk | 5 | 04-08-2002 04:49 PM |
solid roller cam? | 5th_Ave_Sleeper | Performance Talk | 7 | 09-09-2001 07:07 AM |