383 and 440 parts interchangables ??????

[geneo]

will 440 heads fit on my 383, will my 383 intake fit on a 440, will 383 dist, cam, intake, headders fit on a 440

[geneo]

oh almost forgot what is studding the block,---- advantages disadvantages

[Tiamat]

Heads will fit.
383 intake is narrower that 440 intake
383 Dist shaft is shorter than 440
Headers will bolt on
Not sure about cam

Studs are used instead of head/main bolts. They are stronger and aid alignment during assembly.

[440roadrunner]

Here's what WILL NOT FIT

Distributor

Pushrods

Intake manifold.

Crank,

Not sure about Rods/ pistons One of them, at least, won't

Everything else interchanges

[crisser]

Most parts will interchange except blocks, cranks, rods, pistons, pushrods,and distributor.
As stated before, the 383 is a "B" block and the 440 a "RB" or raised deck block. So it`s taller and wider.

[N.R.F.D.]

rods will fit with special pistons cranks will fit with main journal mods but they r not direct fit

[N.R.F.D.]

studing the block is......not useing the head bolt or main cap bolt but use a stud with a nut and washer it gives you more clamping force and if your racing and disassembling the block often to inspect thing your not wareing out the threads in the block its better but not necessary. a 440 in the 600hp range it would be good

[geneo]

my 383 will only be pushing 450 tops so studding is really nor nessarry then correct, kinda overkill

[ehostler]

Headers depend on the header. A 383/440 header will interchange. A header that is for the 383 will not clear a 440 (been there with TTI headers). A 440 header will work on a 383; however, it may hang a little low and interface with steering linkage.

[peg leg]

IMHO, should be used in any application. The extra measure of strength and cap/head walking prevention is worth it. Others may disagree, but I tend to err on the side of prevention of failures.

[N.R.F.D.]

you do not need studs with that amout of power ....peg leg if your head and main caps are walking then you need to check a few things like what happened to your cylnder head dowels or maybe you should stop the engine from pinging too high timing to low octane over heating. If you have these items moving around probley studs wont fix it think about this how many engine did the big three make back in the day NONE OF THEM CAME FACTORY WITH STUDS and the power out puts were high and some had very high compression and the factory still warrantied them (440 6 pak, 426 hemi 340) and modern engine dont come with them either use the studs if you want theres nothing wrong they r better then factory bolt but i think at the power level your working in the money is better spent somewere else. but i dont live on the sky is falling mentality

[valiant64]

I think that main studs would be cheap insurance no matter the application, and if the option was re-use stock bolts vs. new hardware, the $60 for the studs would be money well spent. Really, the replacement bolts (ARP) would be fine for most street engines, but since theres not a huge price difference, why not use the studs?

[jelsr]

Bear in mind that a line hone job is recommended if you install studs. This will add to the cost substantially.

[geneo]

how much extra low and high????????????????

[3404spdvaliant]

ARP bolts=$65
ARP studs=$84-$110
LINE HONE=$110-150
=$175-$260 there's your ''cheap insurance''.
In all honesty you don't need studs, you do need good rod bolts.
I run my 344 to 7200 almost every time I drive it and it has 38yr old main bolts. This engine is in a 3292lb 4spd car and I'm not nice to it.
I have studs for my 408 in progress, however thats alot more crank swinging in that lil block w/2 bolt mains. Though I wouldn't doubt stock bolts holding up.
Just look at the size of mopar main bolts compared to a GM/chevy & the cap
size they wernt just throwing crap together at Mopar. Now we all like to tinker and buy sh*t for our engines but with a mopar you get to spend your money where it counts, cams, springs, porting, pistons, ect.
Instead of worrying about studs to compensate for a weak bottom end they don't have.
Then again it's your money so spend/waste it where you like.ha ha

[valiant64]

I see we're still debating over this topic. While it's true @ your power level that the studs aren't necessary, IF you want to use them and don't mind spending the extra $ to purchase them & have the mains honed to correct any cap alignment issues, there is no other reason you can't use them. Summit lists the main bolts for BB @ $33.95. The studs for BB @ $55.95. I've reused the factory main bolts many times with no problems, but if any of the bolts look questionable, or if you plan on later upgrades for more power, I'd still buy the ARP bolts and play it safe. Your $, your choice.

[N.R.F.D.]

ive only studed one block and i ran it in the nascar southwest tour in the middle to late 80s and have never ever had any issues with the main caps moving around and ive built a few 800 hp hemis so stick that in your insurance pocket book i would rather spend money on better valves that dont pop the heads off but im not a mountain of money like you guys so my plan is to beat you with no money. dont forget when you get done line boring it you get one of those special timing chains stick the other one on the wall cause its not really good now

[440roadrunner]

Very well put. I assumed this thread was about a mild street engine, otherwise the question originally would not have been asked. I've never used main studs or line bored a block in ANY of my street engines.

My attitude is, that if you are building something so "big" that it needs main studs and line boring, it's probably beyond the expertise of your home garage.