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#1
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Intake for 383 and headers E body
Looks like Im finally getting my 383. What intake do you recomend? I plan to keep stock other than a cam to be determined, using stock valve gear, so nothing too much. 4 speed, I'll be getting a carb from Don, using his ignition as well. I also need a set of headers. Anybody have a set?
Your ideas on intake, cam, headers. |
#2
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Edelbrock Performer RPM, Holley Street Dominator, Edelbrock DP4B, Weiand Action Plus or Stock 68' up stock iron intake in that order of preference. How much cam are you thinking about using? What rear gears? Carb? I have a set of Hooker comps that were bolted on but never used if interested, 1 7/8 primary 3" collectors. I also have the collectors for these N.I.B.
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#3
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It has 4.10's now, may go back to 3.54. how much for the headers? I definitely interested. On the cam, I just want to wake it up. Probably in the 230's at 50? Dunno, I'll have to call Jim at Racer Brown.
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#4
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Love a long list of intakes that could be used. I myself just got the Holley Street Dom o the cheap from a freind. Havn't bolted it up yet. Good rep. thoseintakes.
But, if a new intake was to be purchased, it would be a RPM. It would fit a small cam like you "Probably" may use, and work well along with the gears you'll "May go to." Once you get a plan togther, you'll know what to do for sure, or not, well, maybe. |
#5
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The Holley Street Dominator is a great intake, but the 383 version is kind hard to find (dunno why they quit making that one). Since it has a dual flange it will also accept the Thermoquad as well as AFB, AVS & Holley carbs, and has good hood clearance, unlike the RPM on some cars. I've used the 383 version of the Street Dom, and it worked great. I've also used the 440 version of the RPM, and same for that with the exception of having to run a shorter air filter to get it to clear the hood. With the 383, you shouldnt have a problem with either. $120 for the headers & collectors + shipping.
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#6
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I'll take em. I sent a private msg call or leve yours
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#7
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Cool. I'll contact you soon then.
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#8
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What about single planes? Like the Torker, or MP. or whatever. Any experience there?
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#9
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The intake design depends on what you plan on doing with the engine/car.
I had a Torker an a 383 and really liked it. |
#10
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The Holley Street Dominator is a single plane. According to a recent intake shootout, Hot Rod magazines results were overall very similar between the Mopar M1 & the Holley intakes. I've never personally used the Torker, but understand it is a pretty good piece. Whatever you decide to do as far as purchasing headers & exhaust, I'd look for headers with 1 3/4 to 1 7/8 primary tubes, & 3" collectors, and a dual 2 1/2 system with an "H" or "X" pipe crossover. Some good mufflers like Magnaflow, Flowmaster or Dynamax would work great also. By the sounds of your build, you dont want or need a header primary/collector size any larger, or for that matter an exhaust any larger. Really for a 383 street car, anything more will just make more noise & add to fitment hassles with the larger tubes.
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#11
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I'm with valiant on this. I'd stick to the smaller tube header, in general for in general builds. And the 2-1/2 pipe size is good till about 450 HP. There it becomes a toss up on power vs. noise equaling not much more and a lot more. (As in not much more power but more, alot more, noise)
I've seen a few write ups and dyno run comparo's on the intakes for the Chrysler big block (B or RB) and the engine doesn't seem to care to much on what sits on top of it so long as it's suite for the intended power range. |
#12
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Check out this post I put up about the artical that valiant64 refered to it may help you.
http://www.mopar.net/showthread.php?...nifolds+hotrod |
#13
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I'm trying to avoid buying anything new! Will read that article later. Thanks for posting it.
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#14
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Getting back on topic, I STILL like the street Dominator!!! For years I knew it was a great intake and the low profile makes it super for the resto-mod no hood scoop needed crowd. The M1 Single plane is nice too, but the Performer RPM, C'mon..Do you really wanna pay 100 bucks more for 5 ft/lbs of torque at 4000? That looks to be the difference between the 2 intakes. I may upgrade the the M1 because Im running a few more cubes, but the SD is a very economical 383 intake if you can find one, and dont want to go BIG with the dual quad tunnels in the test.
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#15
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Hey pishta, the funny thing is that MP (Direct Connection) used to recommend the Street Dominator before they came out with the M1 intake. They advertise that the M1 is a better piece than the "old" Holley intake. The "gain" is negligible if not totally laughable. What is the gain, isnt it like 2hp? I wonder how many people actually took off the trusty Street Dom to swap it with the M1 just to find out that now they cant close the hood without the air cleaner hitting? IMO, it'll be a long time before anybody comes out with a good street/strip intake for the BB thats really better than the Holley.
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#16
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MoPar is just makeing money with there version. They took a lesson or two on intakes and opted for a taller runner design. Which is the way I would go. Longer runner length should atomize the fuel better.
Then again, I did say earlier, the big blocks don't really seem to care whats on top. |
#17
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I have a line on a DP4B. The 383 I was getting turned out to have a crack between two freeze plugs. Any possibility of welding that? Was a killer deal til that. F code HP all original, runs good $800 I'll keep collecting parts til I find an engine.
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#18
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You guys convinced me. I picked up a Street Dom on ebay.. $140. Too much I think.
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#19
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Mopar also said if you have a street dominator or a team G, a Wiend Xcelerator its not worth changing it.
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#20
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Good to hear!
Hope the header deal worked out too. |
#21
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Quote:
The crack can be fixed, but it may be costly to do. |
#22
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I have found another 383 HP out of a 70 cuda. He says it runs but needs going through. Will my Internal balanced 340 flywheel work on that?
How much do you think to go through a running 383 assuming no new pistons? |
#23
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The flywheel from your 340 should work. Its hard to say without knowing the condition of the engines internals. Could be as cheap as $200 assuming rings, bearings & gaskets.
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#24
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As long as the 340 flywheel isn't the seldom seen extrnal balnced unit found on 1973 engines.
(OK, for the people that badger me, sometimes a 1972 will have it as well. Built late in the year. LOL) |
#25
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An 340 Flywheel will work as long as you can find a beelhousing from a 383 that will match that flywheel, and Rumble i wont badger ya cause i know there werent and cast crank 340s in 72 cars. 10/72 motors would been for 73 cars.
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