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  #1  
Old 04-04-2008, 02:39 AM
rampage_82 rampage_82 is offline
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Default 400 Q's

Alrighty it's about time I write a post that is entirely too long...

I have a buddy that has a 68 charger, which someone put in a 400 (it originally had a 383). I have a number's matching 383, that he wants to trade me. I am wanting to get a motor in my race truck, cause it's race season, and I hate seeing my truck rotting away. Now my future plan is to build a 496 stroker out of my 440 that I ruined (long story). I don't have anywhere near the cash to build my stroker. However if I trade for this 400, I could at least be racing this year. My questions are as follows. As I understand it, the 400's downfall is that the deck height is screwed up, and the compression ratio is pathetic. I have a set of freshly rebuilt 383 closed chamber heads. I also have a set of fully ported/polished 906's with 2.14in. 1.81 ex. Would the closed chamber 383 heads bump the compression up enough to help me, or do they flow so crappy that it would negate the performance I would get from the increased compression?

The next thing, I have the following parts that are still fine from my 440. The aforementioned 906 heads, Cloyes double roller timing set, a Lunati cam and lifter set 292 advertised duration hyd, 230 @.050, .485 lift and 110 degree LC. The 400 comes with a Holley street dominator (tiny single plane manifold). So my question is, if I put my good parts into the 400, can I make enough power to be worth my time, or would I just be better off waiting for the stroker? I was hoping that with my good parts I might be able to see around 350 or a little more horses out of the 400. Is this doable, and if so what would be the better choice in heads? Also BTW I run a Predator carb, with MSD 6a ignition, and it has 1" &7/8's fenderwell exit headers with 3.5" collectors. I have a 3,500 stall converter. I'm not expecting a firebreathing monster, I just want to be able to play this year..... Any thoughts???
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Old 04-04-2008, 07:57 AM
DartGT66 DartGT66 is offline
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Like you said, the 400's stock CR is pathetic. Changing the headswill not make a considerable change. Have you cc'd teh 906's and the 383 closed chamber heads you have? There is a chance, that there is not much difference. I think, that by milling .040-.060 from the 906's, and installing your cam and other parts with the street dominator, it might still make a well performing engine. Keep in mind, that the 400's stroke is very small, so you'll have way less low end, and the engine would like to wind way higher than the 440.
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Old 04-04-2008, 08:33 AM
hotrod7043 hotrod7043 is offline
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my 452 short rod motor made tons a TQ and rpmmed real quicklly.
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Old 04-04-2008, 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by rampage_82 View Post
Alrighty it's about time I write a post that is entirely too long...
HooRaayyyy!!!!!!!!

Quote:
I have a buddy that has a 68 charger, which someone put in a 400 (it originally had a 383). I have a number's matching 383, that he wants to trade me.
Pssssssffffffffttt, trade done, done deal. He gets a # matching 383 and you get a 400. The thought bubble over my head screams 500 cid.


Quote:
My questions are as follows. As I understand it, the 400's downfall is that the deck height is screwed up, and the compression ratio is pathetic. I have a set of freshly rebuilt 383 closed chamber heads. I also have a set of fully ported/polished 906's with 2.14in. 1.81 ex. Would the closed chamber 383 heads bump the compression up enough to help me, or do they flow so crappy that it would negate the performance I would get from the increased compression?
Oh, dude, what DartGT66 said. I took apart my 1978, - 400 and measured everything up. The ratio speced out at 7.8-1 with the thin mopar gasket. A super charger would be nice on this mill. Low boost with the cast pistons, but, you could make some power that way. OK ok, NOT a cheap way.

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The next thing, I have the following parts that are still fine from my 440. The aforementioned 906 heads, Cloyes double roller timing set, a Lunati cam and lifter set 292 advertised duration hyd, 230 @.050, .485 lift and 110 degree LC. The 400 comes with a Holley street dominator (tiny single plane manifold). So my question is, if I put my good parts into the 400, can I make enough power to be worth my time, or would I just be better off waiting for the stroker? I was hoping that with my good parts I might be able to see around 350 or a little more horses out of the 400. Is this doable, and if so what would be the better choice in heads? Also BTW I run a Predator carb, with MSD 6a ignition, and it has 1" &7/8's fenderwell exit headers with 3.5" collectors. I have a 3,500 stall converter. I'm not expecting a firebreathing monster, I just want to be able to play this year..... Any thoughts???
That tiny intake will hold it's own against any other single plane out there. If you can bump the compresion up a full point to 1.2 to get a 9.0-1, that would be great! Thats all you would need. I don't know if that is doable with the heads and piston combo you have now. But that would be a target to shot for.

Head flow wold be the issue for power next. Otherwise, I can see 400+ hp out of it. I see the 383/400 cube engines like a 318. Short stroke big bore high rever fun street machine power maker. True, a lack of torque, but thats ok tooo. Cam carefully if you change your idea on cams. (Split duration like a Extreme 274. or better. )
The converter seems high. Street driven??????
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  #5  
Old 04-04-2008, 09:06 PM
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Do a "cheepo" stroker: 400 block w/ a 440 crank You can get off the shelf pistons. 451 cubes . Do your big inch stroker later on & keep the 451 for a spare.
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  #6  
Old 04-04-2008, 09:42 PM
rampage_82 rampage_82 is offline
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Originally Posted by rumblefish360 View Post
HooRaayyyy!!!!!!!!



The converter seems high. Street driven??????
Does the truck in my avitar look like a street driven truck??? No I race in 3 to 4 ft. of mud.....
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  #7  
Old 04-04-2008, 09:56 PM
rampage_82 rampage_82 is offline
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Ok, I if I build a 451 stroker, can I use some of the parts from my 440. The 440 had a steel crank, and 6 pack rods. I spun several rod bearings? Can I offset the crank, and get a few more cubes than the 451. The crank had already been turned .010, before I spun the bearings. I guess my real question is, can I build the motor stout, but still be done fairly inexpensively? What are some things that I can save money on, and what do I need to spend money on? I think the 1/2" pickup is a great thing. As well as lighter rod / piston assemblies. You have to excuse me, cause I'm a cop in a rural community, with a baby, so I don't have a lot of money.

If I build this motor as a spare, I've heard that KB has some 451 pistons that are dirt cheap. I've also heard of guys using the BBC rods? I know this cam is tiny, but it survived, whereas I rounded two Comps, in the last motor, so I like this cam, and it ran wonderfully.

I also have three other 440 cranks, but they are cast. Which crank would be better to use? I know my 906 heads would work a lot better on a spare 451, than they would on the 496, however the rules state that I have to use factory casting heads. However that is only one place I race at that has that rule, so I might go with the Indy 440ez head or the stealth head on the 496 and just use the 906's on the spare motor.
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  #8  
Old 04-05-2008, 09:36 AM
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Sounds like you 440 forged crank has seen better days. I would look for another forged crank. The cast cranks might be fine for a street vehicle or on occasional blast down the drag strip, but for your application I wouldn't use one.
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  #9  
Old 04-05-2008, 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by rampage_82 View Post
Does the truck in my avitar look like a street driven truck??? No I race in 3 to 4 ft. of mud.....
OUCH! I think, well, OK, how sick of a puppy are you? LOL

OK, it doesn't look street driven. But it could be.
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Old 04-05-2008, 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by rampage_82 View Post

I have a buddy that has a 68 charger, which someone put in a 400 (it originally had a 383). I have a number's matching 383, that he wants to trade me.
Not tog et off track here....

Do you mean a date correct 383?

I don't understand how you could have the numbers matching engine for his 68. Did you own the car once before?
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  #11  
Old 04-05-2008, 05:31 PM
rampage_82 rampage_82 is offline
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I'm sorry I mean date matching
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Old 04-07-2008, 01:17 AM
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Ok man

It was just throwing me a bit...LOL

If planning a stroker I would seriously consider the stroker kits at 440source.com

You can build a really big motor for not much money.
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  #13  
Old 04-07-2008, 01:44 AM
jelsr jelsr is offline
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Even with the spun brg issue you can go with a 2.2 rod journal on the crank, the rods are not extremely high priced and you get a lighter bob weight for a 451. Read that as very quick.
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Old 04-07-2008, 07:51 AM
63Fury 63Fury is offline
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Originally Posted by rampage_82 View Post
I have a buddy that has a 68 charger, which someone put in a 400 (it originally had a 383). I have a number's matching 383, that he wants to trade me. I am wanting to get a motor in my race truck, cause it's race season, and I hate seeing my truck rotting away.
DO IT! SO you can race!!!!!

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Originally Posted by rampage_82 View Post
Now my future plan is to build a 496 stroker out of my 440 that I ruined (long story). I don't have anywhere near the cash to build my stroker. However if I trade for this 400, I could at least be racing this year.
MAKE THE TRADE! So you can race!!!!!

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Originally Posted by rampage_82 View Post
My questions are as follows. As I understand it, the 400's downfall is that the deck height is screwed up, and the compression ratio is pathetic. I have a set of freshly rebuilt 383 closed chamber heads. I also have a set of fully ported/polished 906's with 2.14in. 1.81 ex. Would the closed chamber 383 heads bump the compression up enough to help me, or do they flow so crappy that it would negate the performance I would get from the increased compression?
The closed chamber will give you around .75 of a point of on compression plus mill the heds .060 for about another half point. Make sure you use the steal head gaskets and you will end up around 9 to 1. You can and will make power at that ratio. The closed chamber heads will not flow even close to the 906 P&P heads but you do want to play this year correct? Keep the 906 for you stroker.

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Originally Posted by rampage_82 View Post
I have the following parts that are still fine from my 440. The aforementioned 906 heads, Cloyes double roller timing set, a Lunati cam and lifter set 292 advertised duration hyd, 230 @.050, .485 lift and 110 degree LC. The 400 comes with a Holley street dominator (tiny single plane manifold).
That cam will be fine with 9 to 1 compression. Make sure the valve springs are good on the fresh 383 heads or use the ones from your 906 (if you can). That TINY single plane will flow more than enough, it is a good intake.

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Originally Posted by rampage_82 View Post
So my question is, if I put my good parts into the 400, can I make enough power to be worth my time, or would I just be better off waiting for the stroker? I was hoping that with my good parts I might be able to see around 350 or a little more horses out of the 400.
Let me see build a cheap 400 and have a season of playing, smiling, screaming through mud pits ....or sit around depressed waiting to build the killer stroker....let me see....

Are you kidding me? You did say you wanted to race this year didn't you?

You will make 350 EZ with that setup.

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Originally Posted by rampage_82 View Post
I'm not expecting a firebreathing monster, I just want to be able to play this year..... Any thoughts???
I think you answered your own question.

Other thoughts?! Replace, or at least, check the bearings and make sure you use a good HV oil pump.
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Old 04-07-2008, 08:14 AM
63Fury 63Fury is offline
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Ok, I if I build a 451 stroker, can I use some of the parts from my 440. The 440 had a steel crank, and 6 pack rods. I spun several rod bearings? Can I offset the crank, and get a few more cubes than the 451. The crank had already been turned .010, before I spun the bearings. I guess my real question is, can I build the motor stout, but still be done fairly inexpensively? What are some things that I can save money on, and what do I need to spend money on? I think the 1/2" pickup is a great thing. As well as lighter rod / piston assemblies. You have to excuse me, cause I'm a cop in a rural community, with a baby, so I don't have a lot of money.
The 451 will still cost you a minimum of $1200 to build. I think you can get 470 cid if you offset grind the mains but you have to use differant rods rods and buy pistons with the correct pin size......

I think you can build the 400 for around $250 with milling the heads, new bearings and gaskets. You will be done sooner and you can start building the 500 stroker without it hurting so much. I know all about being on a tight budget and having a wife and kids to think about. If you save the money with the 400 you will still have all kinds of fun this year. Plus you will not feel guilty when the cash runs out before the end of the month and the wife is looking at you with that "you had to be a big shot and build the big engine" look. Been there done that!!!! LOL

We are Mopar drivers and we all LUST for big power (thats why we drive Mopars) but always keep life in perspective. Keep the priorities straight. When I'm looking a buying new go fat parts for my toys I always think "am I taking food off the table, or missing a house/car payment to do this?" if the answer is yes than do the rite thing and wait or use something else.

I live in Michigan and I do all my own valve work and porting and polishing. If you want I can donate a few hours for you and P&P your closed chambers. You pay for the shipping and sanding disks (about $20) and I'll do the work for you.
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Old 04-07-2008, 08:50 AM
DartGT66 DartGT66 is offline
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The closed chamber will give you around .75 of a point of on compression plus mill the heds .060 for about another half point. Make sure you use the steal head gaskets and you will end up around 9 to 1. You can and will make power at that ratio.
The last set of 213 heads (old 383 closed chambers, 2.08/1.60 valves) I measured were 84cc. Untouched open chamber heads tend to be in the 88-90cc range. so, if we assume that teh 400 has got a true 7.8:1 in factory condition with 90cc chambers, switching to 84cc heads raises that to 8.16:1. Milling .060 of the closed chamber heads would reduce the chamber about 11cc's, that would bring the CR to about 8.9:1. The old closed cahmbers flow somewhat worse than any of the newer heads. Now, if you think about the 906 heads, that have had bigger valves installed. From the factory, they are lets say 90cc's. Typically, depending of the valve shape, that is reduced several cc's when bigger valves are installed. Factory valves are recessed, and most oversize stainless valves are flat, and the bigger valves tend to be also more "on the surface", than the factory valve jobs. So, lets assume that we are now at 88cc's. However, when we begin to mill the heads, milling closed chambers .040 removes about 7cc's from the chamber, but milling the same amount of the open chamebrs removes 10cc's. So, at .040 milled from both heads, the chambers should be about even, and at .060" milled, the open chambers should actually be smaller than the clsoed chambers. So, measure the cahmebrs of both castings first, until you begin to make decisions.
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Old 04-07-2008, 09:32 AM
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The last set of 213 heads (old 383 closed chambers, 2.08/1.60 valves) I measured were 84cc. Untouched open chamber heads tend to be in the 88-90cc range. so, if we assume that teh 400 has got a true 7.8:1 in factory condition with 90cc chambers, switching to 84cc heads raises that to 8.16:1. Milling .060 of the closed chamber heads would reduce the chamber about 11cc's, that would bring the CR to about 8.9:1. The old closed cahmbers flow somewhat worse than any of the newer heads. Now, if you think about the 906 heads, that have had bigger valves installed. From the factory, they are lets say 90cc's. Typically, depending of the valve shape, that is reduced several cc's when bigger valves are installed. Factory valves are recessed, and most oversize stainless valves are flat, and the bigger valves tend to be also more "on the surface", than the factory valve jobs. So, lets assume that we are now at 88cc's. However, when we begin to mill the heads, milling closed chambers .040 removes about 7cc's from the chamber, but milling the same amount of the open chamebrs removes 10cc's. So, at .040 milled from both heads, the chambers should be about even, and at .060" milled, the open chambers should actually be smaller than the clsoed chambers. So, measure the cahmebrs of both castings first, until you begin to make decisions.
Good advise!
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Old 04-07-2008, 10:58 AM
hotrod7043 hotrod7043 is offline
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Ofsett crank grind to3.90 give ya 474 cast granks can take a beating they are better shock absorbers use up what ya got first, id Call Muscle motors.they have run and Built a lot of welded crank stuff.
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Old 04-08-2008, 01:28 AM
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Ofsett crank grind to3.90 give ya 474 cast granks can take a beating they are better shock absorbers use up what ya got first, id Call Muscle motors.they have run and Built a lot of welded crank stuff.
YEA!, attach really expensive rods & pistons to a factory cast crank that has been offset ground so you can toss it all through the side of the block when your done. LOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

WHAT EVER YOU DO, DON'T DO THAT.
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Old 04-08-2008, 03:37 AM
hotrod7043 hotrod7043 is offline
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What ever you do dont listen to thatwasfunny. Cast 440 cranks arent great, but will take some abuse, they are better for absorbsing torsioinal flex and vibrations and like Nh Driver said Off the shelf parts are cheap. Like I said Call Muscle Motors they are the stroker experts and a good supplier cheap. www.musclemotorsracing.com he didnt say he wanted to be putting expensive rods and pistons in it.kieth black and je make pistons cheap and muscle offfers pretty nice balanced kits.
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Old 04-08-2008, 09:40 AM
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Here's my unsolicited opinion. Putting a compromised motor together for the street is one thing but doing it for competition is not smart. You will lean on it, it will break and you will be back on the sidelines anyway. Doing things on a budget is fine but racing on the cheap usually turns out badly. -Bob
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Old 04-08-2008, 09:47 AM
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Some guys have to do it that way they have no other choice he is still going to have crank counterwights ground and journals done so with a decent oil system and a balance job he should be ok , put a rev limiter on it set about 6400.
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Old 04-08-2008, 11:42 AM
63Fury 63Fury is offline
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Here's my unsolicited opinion. Putting a compromised motor together for the street is one thing but doing it for competition is not smart. You will lean on it, it will break and you will be back on the sidelines anyway. Doing things on a budget is fine but racing on the cheap usually turns out badly. -Bob
"compromised motor" I think the only thing he is going to compromise on is power. If he rebuilds it nice and clean it should hold together just fine. He isn't going to make much power over 5500 rpm anyway. All he has to do is use his head and set the rev limiter low. I have had to build many engines on the cheap and have had lots of fun doing it. I have had good luck with too many to just say it was luck alone that held the engines together.

His original statement was he wanted to "play" this summer.

I grew up in Farm country and in the 80's that was poor country. Anyway I had a friend, also a farm boy, that raced a 440 Challenger and he put every penny hed made into that engine. It was fast 10:90's with a 4 speed. Anyway about half way through the summer he spun a bearing that took out a rod and #7 cylinder. The block would have to be sleaved, new crank, rods, all rebalanced.....he didn't have the money for any of that. So we went car hunting looking behind all the old farmers barns for junk cars, we found a 69 Imp that the old man just wanted to get out of the way, I think he paid $50 for it. We took it home pulled the engine. We stripped everything off the engine so all that was left was the block, with the crank and pistons installed. We then installed ALL hid good parts, heads, cam, intake, oil pump & pan. He was racing again the next weekend. His times were Low 11's so he lost maybe a half second. That engine lasted the rest of that summer and all the next untill one piston broke a skirt. BTW the Imp had 80K on the clock and the farmer said it was 180.
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Old 04-08-2008, 11:45 AM
thatwasfunny thatwasfunny is offline
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"compromised motor" I think the only thing he is going to compromise on is power. If he rebuilds it nice and clean it should hold together just fine. He isn't going to make much power over 5500 rpm anyway. All he has to do is use his head and set the rev limiter low. I have had to build many engines on the cheap and have had lots of fun doing it. I have had good luck with too many to just say it was luck alone that held the engines together.

His original statement was he wanted to "play" this summer.

I grew up in Farm country and in the 80's that was poor country. Anyway I had a friend, also a farm boy, that raced a 440 Challenger and he put every penny hed made into that engine. It was fast 10:90's with a 4 speed. Anyway about half way through the summer he spun a bearing that took out a rod and #7 cylinder. The block would have to be sleaved, new crank, rods, all rebalanced.....he didn't have the money for any of that. So we went car hunting looking behind all the old farmers barns for junk cars, we found a 69 Imp that the old man just wanted to get out of the way, I think he paid $50 for it. We took it home pulled the engine. We stripped everything off the engine so all that was left was the block, with the crank and pistons installed. We then installed ALL hid good parts, heads, cam, intake, oil pump & pan. He was racing again the next weekend. His times were Low 11's so he lost maybe a half second. That engine lasted the rest of that summer and all the next untill one piston broke a skirt. BTW the Imp had 80K on the clock and the farmer said it was 180.
YEA With a 69 steel crank from the 'imp' as you put it.
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Old 04-08-2008, 09:14 PM
63Fury 63Fury is offline
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YEA With a 69 steel crank from the 'imp' as you put it.
What is your point? You don't think a 400 cast crank can handle 350 to 400 HP?
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Old 04-08-2008, 10:01 PM
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What is your point? You don't think a 400 cast crank can handle 350 to 400 HP?
True, save time and money, play sooner.

I believe the idea of the thread wasn't what to do with the 400, but, can I get power and go racing with it this summer.

The most expensive part is the pistons for a 400. Everything else is equal. He could be up and at'tem real fast with some very decent power even if the lo-po slugs are used.
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Old 04-09-2008, 12:37 AM
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What is your point? You don't think a 400 cast crank can handle 350 to 400 HP?
Sure it can, stock stroke.
I don't think offset grinding a cast crank crank is worth the extra cost/time [at lack of durability compared to steel crank], or will it hold up under race condition, as is the idea, right?
400 stock stroke cast crank for 400 HP & max 6400, sure all day long.

When it comes to 'torsioning' the cast will fail from that before the steel will,
How ever cast iron wears less or has better wear properties then steel and were cheaper to produce [which is why they came along].
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Old 04-09-2008, 02:45 AM
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Actually, years ago we built a budget bracket racer out of a 1973 valiant using a 400 engine. Stock cast crank, stock rods, and .030" TRW L2266 F pistons. They are for a 440, and have a bigger compression height than the 400 pistons, actually positive deck. The 400 block was bored .010", the piston tops were slightly contoured so, that they fit the 452 open chamber heads, and deep valve reliefs were cut using notched old bigger valves and an empty cylinder head + a drill as a cutter. The compression ratio ended being slightly over 10:1. 452 heads with 2.14/1.81" valves we bought from a swap; the other one was ported through in the exhaust port, so I quickly prepped another casting completely differently than the other one, which I also "fixed". They were propably ported with an axe in the past trying to make the ports big and straight, while the "new" head was basically just bowl ported and cleaned up. The cam was a comp cams 306R solid roller, 275 degrees at .050" and 0.625" lift. Crane gold rockers, team G intake, 850 demon carb, 2" primary headers and 3" exhaust. 8" converter + 727, 4.88 gears and spool, and 10.5" slicks. The engine was never dynoed, but it run pretty strong. We had slight problems to get the car launch well, but still the best ET was 10.6/129 mph. The engine turned over 7500 rpm at the traps. Stock cast crank, stock rods, and heavy TRW pistons.
http://www.speedkings.org/bigblock6.JPG
http://www.speedkings.org/29.12.2005%20016.jpg
http://www.speedkings.org/bigblock4.JPG
http://www.speedkings.org/liukasta.wmv
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  #29  
Old 04-09-2008, 07:38 AM
63Fury 63Fury is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rumblefish360 View Post
True, save time and money, play sooner.

I believe the idea of the thread wasn't what to do with the 400, but, can I get power and go racing with it this summer.

The most expensive part is the pistons for a 400. Everything else is equal. He could be up and at'tem real fast with some very decent power even if the lo-po slugs are used.
Fish, You hit the nail on the head, he wants to race on the cheap.

Rampage, Keep the original slugs & just freshen up the 400 (new bearings & rings) & use the good parts from the expired 440. Then save your money for the stroker build.

funny, I think he is intending on building a 500 stroker so I don't think he is going to use a stock crank. I would agree, unless you can do it yourself, that putting the money into the machining is not practical with the cost of stoker kits these days. My referance to offset grinding the rod jurnals was just in reply to his question about how many cudes can one get with a stock 440 crank in a 400 block. With that being said I would have no problem running a cast crank up to 400+ HP and a stock forged up to 600. Over that I don't know as I have never had that problem. LOL
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  #30  
Old 04-09-2008, 10:20 AM
thatwasfunny thatwasfunny is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DartGT66 View Post
Actually, years ago we built a budget bracket racer out of a 1973 valiant using a 400 engine. Stock cast crank, stock rods, and .030" TRW L2266 F pistons. They are for a 440, and have a bigger compression height than the 400 pistons, actually positive deck. The 400 block was bored .010", the piston tops were slightly contoured so, that they fit the 452 open chamber heads, and deep valve reliefs were cut using notched old bigger valves and an empty cylinder head + a drill as a cutter. The compression ratio ended being slightly over 10:1. 452 heads with 2.14/1.81" valves we bought from a swap; the other one was ported through in the exhaust port, so I quickly prepped another casting completely differently than the other one, which I also "fixed". They were propably ported with an axe in the past trying to make the ports big and straight, while the "new" head was basically just bowl ported and cleaned up. The cam was a comp cams 306R solid roller, 275 degrees at .050" and 0.625" lift. Crane gold rockers, team G intake, 850 demon carb, 2" primary headers and 3" exhaust. 8" converter + 727, 4.88 gears and spool, and 10.5" slicks. The engine was never dynoed, but it run pretty strong. We had slight problems to get the car launch well, but still the best ET was 10.6/129 mph. The engine turned over 7500 rpm at the traps. Stock cast crank, stock rods, and heavy TRW pistons.
http://www.speedkings.org/bigblock6.JPG
http://www.speedkings.org/29.12.2005%20016.jpg
http://www.speedkings.org/bigblock4.JPG
http://www.speedkings.org/liukasta.wmv

I'm not sure I would have told anyone I put that together.
Next time save some time/hassle and have a machine shop fly cut the pistons or buy the right ones.
At this point the guy's question has been answered in 20 different ways.
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