440 assy. lubes?

[mopower04]

so, for propor break in and start up what should i be using to assemble the engine? i have the high pressure lube for my cam that the cam company sent, i've heard the white litheum grease clogs filters, and that i sould use sae 30 motor oil on bearing serfaces. if so detergant or non-detergant? what kind of oil should i put in this engine for start up? i know i dont want any synthetics, and i dont know say what brand or rating would be best??

[valiant64]

My machinists have always recommended SAE 30w non-detergent. I've always used this oil on all the engines that they built for my customers, as well as my own engines with no problems. I use Valvoline, but any other good non-detergent 30w should work just as well. Don't use any oil that has the label that states that it is an "energy conserving" type motor oil on a flat tappet cam UNLESS you use the additive that Comp Cams, Hughes, etc. sells. Lots of cam break-in problems have been caused by this type of oil as there is little if any zinc in the oil these days. Hope this helps.

[John Kunkel]

Red Line makes a good general assembly lube that won't dry out and cake up like white grease.

[pcrmike]

I use Lucas Oil Treatment. Always good for me. :-) PCRmike

[pishta]

Whatever oil you use, add some STP oil treatment, plenty of zinc, ash and moly to keep all those pesky metal on metal contacts happy during break in. Modern oil blows on solid lifter cams.

[pcrmike]

So far I have had zero issues with that with Royal Purple oil, and I think Lucas has the same, but with better flow qualities. Whatcha think? :-) PCRMike

[Blown340cuda]

I alway's use 30w and if not using a roller setup add a bottle of the best break in lube, comp cams break in lube 9.85 a bottle it as high amounts of zinc, moly, etc anti wear agents.

Cheers!

imports are for flamers!

[RacerHog]

Assembly Lube


PrePrime motor for 30 min. Before starting...

[thatwasfunny]

I have someone turn crank with ratchet while I prime with drill.

[RacerHog]

Originally Posted by thatwasfunny

I have someone turn crank with ratchet while I prime with drill.

That works also

[Dave 572]

I use Clevite77 Bearing Guard on the rod and mains.
Comp's ( or Schaeffer) break in oil additive and cam/lifter lube.
Rotella T 30wt oil.
Always pre prime the engine.

[BigBlockDude]

We use oil (Rotella in the crank case also) to lube all but the cam. Then pour in a bottle of crane or similar break-in lube. Prime for a couple minutes and your ready to go.

[pcrmike]

I forgot about Shaeffers. Small company, big ideas. Their oil is good stuff as long as you use a good filter. The amount of moly in it is great for anti-wear, but I hear rumors of cheap filters coming apart with it. Best temp resistance that I know of though. :-) PCRMike

[Dave 572]

Originally Posted by pcrmike

I forgot about Shaeffers. Small company, big ideas. Their oil is good stuff as long as you use a good filter. The amount of moly in it is great for anti-wear, but I hear rumors of cheap filters coming apart with it. Best temp resistance that I know of though. :-) PCRMike

I use NAPA Gold/WIX filters. Supposed to be the best out there. Now Fram, that's another story...

[mopower04]

well i've got the crank, cam, pistons, and rods in the 440. now i used valvoline sae 30 on bearing serfaces, cylinder bores for assy. also i put the high pressure lube on the cam that came with it...now i also used some of the high pressure lube on the bearing serfaces along with the sae 30, i'm not sure how long till i have it finished so i thought that would be a good idea rather than just the oil to maybe run out before i get it finished? also before its started its getting primed so i saw no harm in it.

[Blown340cuda]

Caution, shell rotella no longer as the zinc and phos it had before, Now i only use the brad Penn racing oil "the green oil", it's the same as the old kendall gt1, it's got the anti wear agents zinc, phos, etc.