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Lunati cam
I acquired a 1968 383CI Mopar engine Today I removed the cam and found a very good used Lunati BM 2 00031 112 5EB
I have no idea what all that info means. It was on the very front of the cam. I went to Lunati`s web site looking for info and found none. Whats worse, they listed big block cams all the way out to 426ci but they were all 3 bolt designes, mine uses only one bolt to hold the gear on. This tells me I just may have an obsolete item. Too bad for me in that it looks to be in perfect condition. Has any one out there got any info on this cam or know where I may look on the web to find the info. I intend on rebuilding the 383 an use it for street and very limited strip. I am going to try and use up a lot of old mopar items i`ve had laying around for years in this build. The engine will go into a 69 superbee w\ A833 4 spd with 331 rear gears. Any info will be appreciated |
#2
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Get a mic to check lift, I wonder if the 112 is reference to center line?
Cam checker/profiler? |
#3
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I found all the specs today after my post. Any how its a 112 ctr with 4 degrees advance built in & degrees at 108. The lift is 480 and 300 duration.
Has any one had anything near this grind and run it with a 6 pack setup? If so how did it idle? What gears did you have and how did it pull through the rpm ranges? According to Launati this is a very hot street cam that makes its power from 2500 to 6500. I figure a dual plane intake will help the lower end some. I`ll be pulling 331 gears on the street with 17 inch tires. Any one with any thoughts please chim in. |
#4
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What size engine are you wanting to use this cam in? I've used this same type grind on both 383's and 440's. It is a very good cam on a 440, but the 383 was a little soggy on the bottom end. I ran the 383 with a dual plane, and the 440 with both a dual plane and a single plane... For my advise on a 440 go with the single plane, you won't notice a loss in the lower rpm ranges, and about 4000rpm, the motor would scream.
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#5
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Actually its going back into the eng. itcame out of which is a 383 punched to .030 over which makes it a 389. I have quite a bit of experience with another brand of eng. but very little with these big mopars. S o i`m kind offeeling my way through this build. By the way thanks for responding. Heres what I`m actually doing. I`m completly restoring a 69 Superbee. Its on a rotisserie as we speak. My final build will have a 500+ ci built on the 440 block. But, for what that motor is going to cost, it is gonna have to wait for a couple years. In the mean time I got this 383 eng. in the deal for the superbee. They said it was just rebuilt put had been sitting for a while, which you get that crap all the time in these car deals and I put absolutly no confidence at all that the 383 was worth anything, in fact I figure it would be junk as it sat for over ten years. So any how after I Got into this build and funds started runnig short I figured I had nothing to loose by seeing if the 383 was worth using as a temp eng until I can get the 440 built. So, I open it up and find its full of hipo parts and has been balanced. But, theres one more hitch. Who ever put it together either was the dirtiest engine builder or some how they accidentally missed a load of diret somewhere when it was assembled. And, on top of the pistons and on the valves there was several thousanths of a hard oily carbon build up. Come to find out the top rings has been cut to a .026 - .o31 ring end gaps on all the cylinders and the second rings are .030 +, so bingo I think I have found the carbon problem, Any how the way this thing is shaping up if every thing can be reused I may be able to put it back together for a song and have a very strong running 383 till I can get the 440 done. Now again, I have very little experience with the mopars and how they will work with different combinations. I do know I can with out a doubt build a good 4 Holley and on the right manifold probably build more hp. than I will ever get with the 6 pack, just because of the turblance alone with the 6 pk cause problems. But I want the eye candy and will suffer with that loss. I do how ever want to build as much hp as I can with what I have on hand unless I`m just doing something ridiculous that just isn`t going to work. What I have to work with are as follows Good 383 .030 block 8 Good L2315 pistons Complete 6 pack set up , with either the 1970 440ci carbs or I have a set of the old L88 chevy Holleys that will also fit the manifold but they are about 65 cfm less on flow If I recall correctly I`m buying a set of the new stealth heads while theyre cheap. One potential problem I thought about today is, Those pistons were matched up with a set of 906 heads that have a some what large intake valve. Well the pistons are completly flat top, theres no eye brow at all for the valves. Now I`m wondering if these pistons aren`t set down in the bore some. If they are then this could cause potential detonation problems on pump gas. So, now I`m surfing the net for a machinest straight edge so I can check how far they are down in the bore. If they are down but not far then I could get it decked. But, then I`m getting back into spending money on something I would rather use for the 440. If decking is the only hitch I will probably go ahead with that as long as all the other parts will work. In your above post you say the cam is a little soggy on the bottom. Were you running headers and what size were the tubes? also, were you running a manual tranny or auto? Did you use the same headers with both the 440 and your 383? I know a trick I can do to the inside of 6 pack intake that will help the bottom end some, but not a lot? Thanks again for responding, that info is appreciated |
#6
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I had the 383 in a 1965 Custom 880, it had stock pistons and the 516 heads. On the 383 I had the cheapo hedman headers, with mandrel bent 2.5" pipes and 26" long California Blue Streak glasspacks. Stock intake with a 625 Eddy carb. I was running 3.31 gears, and had a stock hemi converter, and the stock points ignition, (hey I was all of 16 years old). I didn't have that exact cam that you mentioned in my 383, but it was similar. I had an Isky 280 megacam hyd. it had .485" lift, 230 duration @.050", and a 108 degree lobe center. That boat of a car would run 14.2's in the 1/4 at 5,700 ft. of elevation. My stock pistons didn't have any valve reliefs, and even with the 516 heads, I didn't ever have trouble with detonation, of course my elevation helps with that as well.
The lunati cam I had was in my 440. it was the 292 magnum series it had .480" lift, 230 duration @.050, and a 109 degree lobe center. The 440 was in my race truck, with a Torker 2 single plane, I ran both an 800 eddy, and a Predator. I ran stock ignition as well as a MSD. The motor never had a problem with low end grunt. Oh yeah the exhaust on it, was some retarted zoomie headers through the hood, and then we went to some custom made fenderwell exit headers. 2" primaries, with 3.5" collectors. The motor ran equally well with both. I have more than my fair share of trophies to prove it. |
#7
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My son is on my a-- over this 383 idea,lol. says to sell it and put the $$$`s towards the 440. What he and his mother dosn`t know is how much i`m going to spend building the 440, heh heh. It ain`t gonna be cheap. I`m gonna list it on a couple web sites for 10 days for sale. If it brings what I want then i`ll go ahead with the 440 build, if it dosn`t then i`ll go ahead and build it for a temporary untill I can get the cash together to build the other one. Thanks for all your help rampage, I would offer mine in return but that would be a joke as I know very little about these mopars. These mopars are all new to me. Thanks again |
#8
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I was running regular pump-gas...however realize that I'm running between 5,000 to 7,000 ft of elevation. oh yeah and a general rule of thumb if you will...you can usually get up to .550" lift with no valve pockets in the pistons.
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#9
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Yup, I picked up on the elevation. But with aluminum heads good quench and stay under 11,1 cr and I believe I will be ok. I`m a fair hand at tuning, plus I know a couple tricks I use to use on the bow tie stuff that i`m sure will work on the mopar. I`ve just not had all that much experience with big blocks and practically none with mopar big or small. So when it comes to the combinations that work with them I`m at a loss. Way back in the days I had a garage full of 348 and 409 chevy stuff and ran nothing but the old factory three duces on the 348 and the 2 4`s on the 09`s. But basically they were all built with factory hipo parts excluding having headers and on occassion a holley 4 bbl and aluming intake. I got away from those in the mid 70`s and went to the 350ci and Single Holleys, running on oval and figure 8 tracks. All these were for my own use. I built one bone stock 440ci in the early 70`s for a brother inlaw who wanted one for his 67 R\T which I eventually bought a few years later. In fact thats why i`m building this Superbee. I fell in love with the R\T which was totaled about 2 years after I got it. Then in about 78 another friend came up with a 69 superbee. A few months after he bought it he started running around on his wife, so on the week ends I would meet him at a local supermarket and tarde cars with him. Trust me, I ran the living snot out of that car. Thats when I really started wanting another mopar for my self. I have been waiting all these years for one. After I retired I got really serious looking for one. Several months ago this one came up for sale on one of the internet auctions. It wasn`t cheap by any means, but it was probably one of the most rust free B bodys I have seen in the past 25 years. My son had it soda blasted for me and the only panel it needs is the rear tail light panel. My son is a body man and has his own shop, but is contracted to insurance companys. It took an act of god to get it in for the restoration and I still had to wait a couple years till he added on to the shop so he would have the room. I went in to the shop today and they had just taken it off the rotisserie and have it up on one of these portable hydraulic lifts. Its in primer except for the under carriage which is all sealed and painted. He has had everything and I mean everything powder coated. He had something that looks like chrome baked on the rear end housing and front K member and he took all the new suspension parts and had them powder coated high gloss black. I couldn`t resist rolling one of the new tires and wheels into the rear wheel openting to have a look and danged it looks good. Any how thats how I got into this project. I can`t wait for it to be drivable. I keep forgetting my camara. But I need to get some photos and post them so the people thats giving me all this advice can tale a look. Anyhow, which ever way I go on the motor i`ll let ya know. Thanks again. |
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