|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
aluminum driveshaft verse steel or chrome moly?
What are your thouhts? Will an aluminum shaft get me any really gains in my ET? verses an aftermarket steel shaft?
|
#2
|
|||
|
|||
And THEN there are carbon-fiber DS's ! .... these liteweight pieces DO help .. but the cost/benefit ratio might be a little on the low side.
|
#3
|
|||
|
|||
If you're running 14's, stock steel is fine and dandy. Ten's, maybe the aluminum drive shaft will gain you thousanths. Anything below ten's, you'll do anything to shave thousanths, and bring large bags of money, and a trailer to pick-up your broken parts. How fast can you afford to go? Your reaction time makes more difference than $10,000 worth of speed parts, especially bracket racing. Sorry to be so cruel, but that's the truth. I'm semi-old(54) and my reaction time ain't what it used to be, but I can still get my '84 bike down the strip quicker than guys with bikes that should eat mine. And 5 passes and I need a new $300 rear-tire too. I run 11.12-11.03 at best. That's pretty quick. If I can get three 11.10 runs, I can go home with $500 in my pocket 99% of the time,but that ain't easy to do.
|
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Well my driveshaft needs replacing and mancini has the steel one for $250 and the alumin one for $400. I know aftermarket steel shafts can be very heavy so if the aluminum one is 10 pounds lighter could their be a .100 second to be gained going lightweight?
|
#5
|
|||
|
|||
A factory MoPar drive shaft is already a lightweight one. It uses thin wall steel tube compared to the Ford/Chevy guys. This is a factory speed secret. The downside is they are easily damaged and thrown out of balance. I have had driveline guys say a MoPar drive shaft is "CRAP" because of it's lightweight construction. Now aluminum and even carbon fiber driveshafts are all the rage. OLD MoPar speed secret.
If you were swapping an already heavy Ford or Chevy shaft, yeah, an aluminum shaft would be a world of difference. But a factory lightweight MoPar shaft might not yield a great increase in performance. |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
If you need a new shaft, for $150, the aluminum shaft is probably worth it. I doubt it will make .1 difference, more like hundreths, but it will help.
|
#7
|
|||
|
|||
I would check a local or another on-line source ..... I think that you could do ALOT better than 400$ for an alum one.
|
#8
|
|||
|
|||
I have not really found anything to beat Mancini on price. I would appreciate any links to other alternatives.
|
#9
|
|||
|
|||
If you do find a better price Mancini will beat that price too.
At least thats what they advertise. |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
Mancini probably gets their stuff from these guys .... sw Detroit suburbs...
kevinw@jointclutchandgear.com |
#11
|
|||
|
|||
Almost all new OEM cars and trucks are using aluminum driveshafts. I'd say there has to be a reason for that. -Bob
|
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Aluminum driveshaft | cudabob496 | Performance Talk | 3 | 06-01-2007 09:59 PM |
New Aluminum Driveshaft anyone? | TBIAgent69 | Dakota Truck Forum | 4 | 06-18-2003 02:42 AM |
Chrome-moly tubular K-Members | Dave68Dart | Rear Wheel Drive - Parts for Sale | 1 | 01-22-2003 12:21 AM |
Chrome-moly tubular K-Members | Dave68Dart | Parts for Sale | 0 | 01-21-2003 11:37 PM |
aluminum driveshaft from late model | goldcharger | Performance Talk | 0 | 08-21-2001 10:57 PM |