Is my cam toast?

[MOPEkid]

I just finally got my '70 Duster 318 started up and running good after replacing the intake manifold gaskets, but now there's an awful lifter tick after running it a little while. It's really loud, and can be heard easily from the inside of the car. At first I thought it was the distributor cap, but I took off the driver's side valve cover and lo and behold, one of the pushrods was spinning way more than the others. I tried driving it around to possibly pump up the lifter, but it was no use. Do you guys think I could've dropped something into the valley when the intake was off and started the engine? If so, is it more likely to be a busted lifter or is the cam wiped on that lobe? One more thing, can I cheaply and easily replace that one lifter without taking the intake manifold off again? This whole thing is really pissing me off, it's just one thing after another. And I don't have another car I can use to get me around.

[peg leg]

Verify the rod is not bent. Now,try cinching down the rocker that has the loose pushrod. Do it to specs, too.Now start the engine. Noise gone?
Now, check the rocker movement, and compare it to the other rockers of the same type (intake or exhaust). Is there a visual difference? Look for equal movement. You may not be able to see any difference, but it's worth a try.
I don't know of any way to pull lifter without pulling the intake. If it turns out that the push rod and visible lift are good, you're going to have to pull the intake and remove the lifter on the suspect hole. Look at the cam lobe on that hole.

[MOPEkid]

What do you mean by "cinching down the rocker"? I have stock hydraulic lifters and stamped-steel unadjustable rockers.

In my FSM it says I can remove the lifter through the head with a magnet. First take off rocker shaft, pull out pushrod, then insert a "magnet tool" down into the lifter plunger, twist, and pull the lifter out through the head. It also says a heavy "click" can be caused by foreign objects getting into the lifter and preventing the plunger from pumping up; this is what I'm betting on is the problem, as I doubt an entirely stock valvetrain or a small piece of carbon could wipe one cam lobe in a split second. Oh, and also, if the cam lobe was messed up, wouldn't it also cause a loss of lift on the opposite side of the engine?

[MOPEkid]

Okay, an update. I took off the rocker shaft assembly and inspected the pushrods. The on pushrod on the noisy lifter I can easily push down, while the other pushrods are rock-solid and don't move at all. I'm assuming this means my lifter isn't pumping up, as I can see the plunger move in the lifter as I push down on the pushrod. Now I just need a long, skinny magnet or a pair of long, skinny pliers to pull the lifter out and inspect it.

[bobr]

Originally Posted by MOPEkid

What do you mean by "cinching down the rocker"? I have stock hydraulic lifters and stamped-steel unadjustable rockers.

In my FSM it says I can remove the lifter through the head with a magnet. First take off rocker shaft, pull out pushrod, then insert a "magnet tool" down into the lifter plunger, twist, and pull the lifter out through the head. It also says a heavy "click" can be caused by foreign objects getting into the lifter and preventing the plunger from pumping up; this is what I'm betting on is the problem, as I doubt an entirely stock valvetrain or a small piece of carbon could wipe one cam lobe in a split second. Oh, and also, if the cam lobe was messed up, wouldn't it also cause a loss of lift on the opposite side of the engine?

If your cam lobe is wiped you may have trouble getting the lifter out as it's probably wiped as well. The cam lobe only affects 1 lifter and has nothing to do with the other side of the engine. -Bob

[MOPEkid]

Yeah, it's the lifter. It just won't pump up. I'm thinking I should just drive around for a long time and see if it pumps up, but will I hurt anything by doing that?

[RacerHog]

If you get it out....Take it apart and clean it....Oil it....And retry it....

[thatwasfunny]

Originally Posted by RacerHog

If you get it out....Take it apart and clean it....Oil it....And retry it....

Thats what I would do.
Really long handled needle nose pliers worked for me, I just grabbed it by the edge/lip.

[MOPEkid]

Whew, alright guys. Got the lifter out, took it apart, and to my relief there were just some small pieces of grit in the check valve. Cleaned all the parts, filled it with oil, put it back together, and now it's stiff. Popped it back in the bore, put the valvetrain back together, and voila! No more noise. Thank GOD I fixed that problem. Runs great now, especially with the extra couple degrees initial advance. Just in time too; I've got to run down to Colorado Springs tomorrow to take my SAT!

[thatwasfunny]

sweet!!

[RacerHog]

Good Deal....Glad it's fixed.....

Wave at My brother when you get to Colorado Springs...

[Walkercolt]

Aren't you glad you don't drive a Chebby? It would have wiped the lobe on the cam just not pumping up and probably bent a valve stem and buggered the seat...don't ask how I know.

[MOPEkid]

Originally Posted by Walkercolt

Aren't you glad you don't drive a Chebby? It would have wiped the lobe on the cam just not pumping up and probably bent a valve stem and buggered the seat...don't ask how I know.

You know, I met a guy at work today who had an old Barracuda, Duster, and Dart Swinger (all with 318's) and he said he barely ever changed the oil and beat the shit out of every one, and they never gave up. Thank God I'm a Mopar Man!

Oh and RacerHog, who's your brother? I see Mopars down south all the time. In fact, today I saw a '70's Dart Swinger in the morning, a black Road Runner/Satellite at noon, and a late-60's Cuda coming home from work on the highway.

[RacerHog]

His Name is Ed.. He Dosent drive a HotRod anymore... He drives a green 1989 or 1990 Dodge PU W/V10 4X4... Nick Name (Pastor Ed)....

So did your Mopar run alright down there and back without any problems?

What are you going to do to it next???

[MOPEkid]

The elevation change is almost 1000 ft. from Monument to CO Springs, but I don't notice too much of a difference. I drove it to work and back today, drives great! I get paid this Friday, and the first thing I'm going to do is a new Firm Feel power steering box (Level 2) and a front-end rebuild kit + sway bar from PST. Then if I have enough money left over I'll get new front tires. Second paycheck will be exhaust, cam, 4-bbl (I already have a TQ and iron 360 manifold sitting on my garage floor), and I'll finally buy that 360 block from TrashedCharger. After that I'll go into cosmetics (interior, black primer paint, bodywork).

[RacerHog]

Originally Posted by MOPEkid

The elevation change is almost 1000 ft. from Monument to CO Springs, but I don't notice too much of a difference. I drove it to work and back today, drives great! I get paid this Friday, and the first thing I'm going to do is a new Firm Feel power steering box (Level 2) and a front-end rebuild kit + sway bar from PST. Then if I have enough money left over I'll get new front tires. Second paycheck will be exhaust, cam, 4-bbl (I already have a TQ and iron 360 manifold sitting on my garage floor), and I'll finally buy that 360 block from TrashedCharger. After that I'll go into cosmetics (interior, black primer paint, bodywork).

Sounds like a great plan.....Keep up posted on how it's comming.....