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  #1  
Old 08-05-2008, 09:56 PM
75mopar 75mopar is offline
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Default cooling toubles please help!!

Hope one of you can point me in the right direction...

I have a 1973 chrysler newport 2 dr. It has the original 400, that is fairly built up. It has '67 915 casting 440 heads on it machined a lil and is pushing out 10 to 1 compression. On top is an edelbrok high rise rpm intake with a holley 750 double pumper. A complete lunatti cam and valvetrain. Also a msd ignition with the 6al box, billet distributer, and coil. The 727 has a turbo action manual valve body, and turbo action 2800 stall convertor. with a hemi clutch pack. The rear is an 8 3/4 with a 4:10 sure grip.


my touble is trying to keep it cool when driving for a while. From what i believe it has the stock radiator.. but it looks like it may have been recored and the water pump has been replaced but with a regular stock unit from autozone. it has the stock fan on it. The guy i bought it from put the trans cooler in front of the radiator. It looks real good but im wondering if this is keeping it from cooling properly. I just recently put an electric fan in front to push more air in, it deffinetly helped but still tends to overheat.

Im looking at putting in my new radiator from my 75 coronet it is wider and a little taller but isnt as thick. also getting rid of the fan and putting 2 electric fans in its place. am also looking at putting a flow cooler water pump on it to help out. Does this sound good? any other ideas?

im young and dont have a lot of money so trying to keep it cheap, any help greatly appreciated!!
thanks
- zac
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  #2  
Old 08-05-2008, 11:39 PM
wilks3 wilks3 is offline
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You should have at least 32* to 35* total timing without the vac advance hooked up, hook up the advance with at least 15* for a total of 50* for all around drive-ability. Some will argue too much, some won't.
Take radiator out and have checked by a shop, or put your other rad in but have it checked also before putting in car.
Fans......electric or mechcanical? A good fitting fan shroud with mech fan blades half in, half out. If electric fans don't scrimp, buy the better puller ones, Spal is good. With your gear ratio you want hi-volume pump and hi-flo stat. Drill two 1/8" holes in side of stat, this helps to burp sytem as it heats up and you add coolant. Watch your plugs, they will tell you rich or lean. A tad rich is better than a tad lean.
Can you remount trans cooler lower or off to side for better air flow into rad?
Just some good starting tips.
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  #3  
Old 08-05-2008, 11:43 PM
jelsr jelsr is offline
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I'm just guessing here since you didn't get real specific. A 3 row rad is superior as is either a clutchfan w/6 or 7 blades or direct driven 4 blade unit. A 180 or 190 deg stat and good fuel for your 10 to 1 comp. is necessary also. A fan shroud is helpful as it creates a negative pressure area that aids air flow. A lean air/fuel ratio will cause heating as will incorrect ign. timing. Good luck and keep us posted.
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Old 08-06-2008, 09:13 AM
fox fox is offline
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Chech the plug color. Is it running too lean?
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  #5  
Old 08-06-2008, 12:44 PM
aarracer aarracer is offline
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Agreed, and maybe first and at no cost go with what wilks 3 said, and also you may wish to try/get a larger carburetor. You could be choking it down with a 750 and you may still have fuel igniting in the exhaust ports causing the overheating (similar to having the timing too far retarded). I've seen a 850 mighty demon on a friends 440 doing this even with the largest jets possible. The cure was a 1050 hp holley. It now absolutely rocks and has no cooling issues. With the 850 he even tried a cam change to no avail, the biggger carb did the trick. $0.02 Good luck.
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Old 08-06-2008, 07:31 PM
75mopar 75mopar is offline
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thanks for everyones iunput

There was a transmission cooler in front off the radiator, after a couple times driving it it would tend to over heat. It will run cool for a while but after 45 mins or so of running it tends to start to over heat..

it has a stock direct driven fan (attached to water pump) and it still has the fan shroud on the radiator with half the fan in the shroud and half out, id say its 2 in away from radiator. and now also has a 12 inch electric fan in front pushing air.

today i moved the trans cooler over to the right side of the radiator and the fan on the left. the left side seems to really be running cooler. I havnt gone on a 45min trip with it yet but running down the road 5 miles it seems to be doing good
thanks
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  #7  
Old 08-06-2008, 08:43 PM
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pishta pishta is offline
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Was the tranny cooler sitting on the radiator? It need to be set off about 1" at least. Those blow fans, not the greatest, pullers are much better if you have the room. A Taurus/Sable 2 sp. electric fan/shroud assy works great if you can get it to fit, you must remove your fan obviously.
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Old 08-09-2008, 06:07 AM
cudabob496 cudabob496 is offline
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I have a 72 service manual for my Cuda. It lists possible causes of overheating: blocked radiator air passages, incorrect timing, low engine oil, incorrect valve timing, bad temp gauge, restricted overflow tube, faulty rad cap, frozen heat control valve, dragging brakes, excessive engine idle, frozen coolant, faulty fan drive, faulty temp sending unit, faulty vacuum bypass valve, overfilling, insufficient corrosion inhibiter, blown head gasket, broken or shifted lower hose spring, low coolant level, collapsed rad hose, fan belt lose, glazed, or oily, air leak through bottom hose, bad thermostat, water pump impeller broken or lose, restricted rad water passages or restricted engine water jacket.
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  #9  
Old 08-10-2008, 10:34 AM
lazarus lazarus is offline
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How hot is it? What does the temperature gauge say?
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  #10  
Old 08-24-2008, 04:58 AM
cudabob496 cudabob496 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aarracer View Post
Agreed, and maybe first and at no cost go with what wilks 3 said, and also you may wish to try/get a larger carburetor. You could be choking it down with a 750 and you may still have fuel igniting in the exhaust ports causing the overheating (similar to having the timing too far retarded). I've seen a 850 mighty demon on a friends 440 doing this even with the largest jets possible. The cure was a 1050 hp holley. It now absolutely rocks and has no cooling issues. With the 850 he even tried a cam change to no avail, the biggger carb did the trick. $0.02 Good luck.
that 750 should be fine for up to 5500 rpm and over 500 hp. if its choking it down, then the plugs would look light in color, like it was running lean, I would think. Never heard of putting in a bigger carb to solve a running hot problem, unless he's running flat out at Daytona for 4 hours at over 6000 rpm.
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