Valve train noise with new combo

[Vitamin C]

I have tried to rid of the noisy valve train noise for a while and now I don't know what to do and am running out of options. The noise starts and increases from 1500 rpm. Sounds like my diesel.

You guys might want to give me some pointers. Is this normal? Could it just be the aluminum heads and valve covers transmitting the noise? Are shaft style roller rockers generally noisy?

Rebuilt my 383

.030 Hyper flat tops
Total seal rings
MP 284/484 Hydraulic (changed with new one thinking the lifters were bad)
Edelbrock RPM heads 60929.
Fel-pro 1009 gasket
Recommended 8.25" Crane push rods
Roller rockers with new shaft (oil holes facing up as per directions)
MP aluminum valve covers
80 psi at start up 30 - 80 warmed up

Adjusted the rockers in half a turn after 0 lash

[peg leg]

The recommended may be too long, and the springs binding at raised rpm.
I would do a check with an adjustable push rod to verify the correct length. Also, look for the push rods binding on the holes through the heads. Have you rolled the rods on a flat surface to see if they are bent?

[23T-Wedge]

Originally Posted by Vitamin C

Roller rockers with new shaft (oil holes facing up as per directions)

Never heard of oil holes facing up, hole (pressure point) should be centered
on the fulcrum point of the rocker, bottom with hole toward exhaust side, unless this is a rocker/shaft package of some sort with different than factory oiling...........curious in TN...???

[Vitamin C]

Originally Posted by peg leg

The recommended may be too long, and the springs binding at raised rpm.
I would do a check with an adjustable push rod to verify the correct length. Also, look for the push rods binding on the holes through the heads. Have you rolled the rods on a flat surface to see if they are bent?

I did install the 1.6 ratio rockers.

I should check the length and get a hold of an adjustable pushrod to make sure.

I didn't recall any visible contact points, but I will take another look.

The Crane rods were new out of the box and checked for straightness on a piece of glass prior to installation.

[Vitamin C]

Originally Posted by 23T-Wedge

Never heard of oil holes facing up, hole (pressure point) should be centered
on the fulcrum point of the rocker, bottom with hole toward exhaust side, unless this is a rocker/shaft package of some sort with different than factory oiling...........curious in TN...???

Yes, this is a rocker/shaft package. I was stumped and concerned so I made a call to the factory about the upward facing holes and they stated the holes needed to face up so the roller bearings could get oiled, made sense to me.

[23T-Wedge]

Yeah, it does make sense, now that I think about it. A bushed rocker needs the pressure to keep it separated from the shaft, needle bearings just need oil flow for lube and cooling. BTW, what kind of rockers, and after thinking more about it, roller rockers "are" probably just going to be nosier than a bushed or stamped rocker, especially when you consider 16 sets of roller bearings rattling on a shaft at the same time. That's something you just don't normally notice with open headers but would on a mufflered car ( I guess... )

[Vitamin C]

I was doing another valve adjustment and then broke a damn adjusting ball stud. It broke at the adjusting nut. I then installed the stock rockers and shafts and the noise cut in half. I guess the clapping noises were the rollers after all.

I bought these from Crankshaft Depot on ebay for $200-ish shipped. I ordered another set of adjusting bolts and nuts and then will sell this set. The stock rockers will do just fine and my motor will not sound like it is coming apart.

[rumblefish360]

Adjusted the rockers in half a turn after 0 lash

I don't know what kind of rockers your running, but this adjustment is a reading I'm used to seeing as .xxx.

The pushrod shafts should depress the lifter approx. .050 while the valves are closed, tappet on base circle.

[Vitamin C]

Originally Posted by rumblefish360

I don't know what kind of rockers your running, but this adjustment is a reading I'm used to seeing as .xxx.

The pushrod shafts should depress the lifter approx. .050 while the valves are closed, tappet on base circle.

The next time I run the rollers, I will measure the .050" when I turn in the stud. This will establish how far in I need to turn them all.

Thanks for all the replies!