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#1
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Rollcage
Anyone out there who knows where to find a rollcage kit or a drawing with measurments for my 65 Valiant?
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#2
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I don't, but I've built a few. If you've got a tubebender, die grinder, tube and a welder, what do you need drawings and measurements for? Just get the rules that you know what is needed, and bend the pipes the way you like the best. I'm sure that for axmple a tube bender can be rented, if you don't want to purchase your own. I have done maybe 5-10 cages out of scratch, and it really isn't much more complicated that trying to fit a "ready" kit in to your car. This is our latest one, no kits available. http://kuva1.kuvablogi.com/iso/img906913.jpg
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#3
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Ok, I so we will have jump in it and do it from scratch... Do you have som more pictures of your Dart?
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#4
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You can try www.stockcarproducts.com or www.speedwaymotors.com for some real good roll cage kits.
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#5
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the first question is, for what kind of use is the car going to be built, does it need to meet some sanctioning bodys requirements? If so, the first step is to get the rules. Most of the cage kits are somewhat universal, fits with different dashes and if you happen to find a kit for a '63-'66 it will most likely be the same for Barracuda. You must still shorten the pipes, contour the ends and weld them. It's about as much work as starting from scratch, and by starting from scratch you can get the fit much closer, hide things behind pillars if you like and so on. I really like that approach. The cage in my pic is a drag race cage in a Plymouth VIP, is cro mo and meets SFI 25.5 specs neede for stock bodied cars running between 7.5-8.49 seconds. 8.5+ second cars need way less tubing. Unfortunately I don't have any pictures of a 8.5+ Dart cage in the web.
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#6
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I am not allowed to send you a PM yet so you will have to send me yours in a PM to me. I think, when we allready have decided to mount a rollcage, I think we will build a 7.50 cage even if I belive the car will be running low 9s/high 8s. I will use a 4speed Rolltech gear, 8 3/4 Moser rearend with two gear so I can change between street/track racing and Dragracing. I have also decided to use it with 12,5:1 comp and run on E-85 (alcohol 105 oct.) Can I ask where you bought your engine?
Roy |
#7
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Thanks dwc43 :-)
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#8
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DW is a moron, if it is for drag racing you need to have .125 thick tube, not .o95 like what he suggested, and when you bend it it strecthes, so you need .134 wall, so it is at least .125 in the bend. 7.50 I bet they get real picky when certifying it.
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#9
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Welcome, anytime. And if you call them, you can get them to build just about anything you want and buy extra tubing to add to it the way you want it. I've used both of them before in customers cars and I think the Speedway cages fir tighter than the SC cages, but both are quality pieces.
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#10
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If you use anything but Chrome Molly you're risking your life and adding twice the weight.
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#11
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I've never built a roll cage, but I recall from the Mopar chassis book that Chrome Moly (steel) tubing is NOT recommended, as it doesn't weld up as strong. Maybe most "home" or small shop fabricators can't weld it properly ?
Competition Engineering NHRA legal kits use either 1 5/8" or 1 3/4" diameter Mild Steel tubing that is 0.134" thick. 8-point kits use the 1 3/4" tubing while the 12-point kits use 1 5/8". I'd check with the NHRA tech inspector (USA) at your nearest track that specializes in roll cage certification, before starting any project. Around here, anything faster than 11.50 (but slower than 10.00) needs at least an "approved" roll bar, side bars, head restraints, padding, 5-point quick release seat belt/shoulder harness(SFI spec 16-1, 3" straps, 2 year interval). Looks like the 8-point basic cage would work. Faster than 10.00 or higher than 135 MPH, and now it gets complicated. Must get an official NHRA chassis certification prior to tech inspection at the track. Now in Finland, I'd check with DartGT66 ! Mark H. |
#12
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I have had a couple cages of mine certified, and they passed tech no problem.
Is this car for the 1/8th? 8's in the 1/4 is a fast machine. |
#13
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That is correct. And it has to be tig welded to do it properly and most shops don't have a tig welder. I'm lucky that the one I have will mig and tig just by swapping some parts out.
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