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#1
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95, 318, 2-wheel drive, round or oval cover on diff. I've purchased a extra from a salavage yard, I don't know alot about rear-end work. I'm going to attempt to swap the unit in the next couple of days. Any advice/tips you can offer would be appreciated. Also how much trouble/expense would it be to rebuild the original after it has been swapped out. It is making a loud grinding sound at low speed,20 to 35mph. I stuck a small magnetic probe in the oil fill plug and it came out full of metal, looked like a 1/4" dia snowflake. Thanking you in advance. Logan.
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#2
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It sounds as if you lost your gears back there. Does it feel as if there is something holding you back? How is the fluid level? How many miles?
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#3
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Its got about 91,000 miles on it. The fluid level was ok, nothing else wrong except the noise. How do you think it will roll as is? The rear I got form the salvage yard had some water in it, so I'm going to clean it up a bit before I swap them. Thanks for replying to my post, I started to think no one had read it...later yellow
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#4
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Pop off the cover, and find out what is ground up. They can break the lock pin for the spider gears, and they will start wearing the case next. This happened on my 83 short box, I opted for the diff swap after a repair did not last.
Brian Mills |
#5
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did you know that a b-body 8 3/4 is the same lenght weld on a few brackets and perches and you got a rear you,ll never break ! P.S. and a lot of different ratio,s hope it helps GARY
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#6
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Don't forget that the 71 and up B body rears were a lot wider and station wagon rears are different too.
------------------ ~Elwenil~ ~.\|/.~ |
#7
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Quote:
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#8
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Get the 8 3/4 rear end. Just get one close to the length that will work with your wheel combo. Remember to look on the center section of the diff for "742" or "489". these are the better ones to use. If you find the "741" remember NO!! parts are available for the center section the rest will interchange with the housing & axles.
Check the pinion angle before removing it & duplicate it when you install the perches on the 8 3/4. Probably have to shorten the drive shaft, & check the U joint size before you have it resized. Those damn adapter U joints are pricey. U WON'T break the 8 3/4 in your truck when you make the change it will last 200,000 miles. Good luck V10 |
#9
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Thanks for all the advice! I've completed the swap. The noise on the old diff was a bad carrier bearing. Hey get this, when this truck was new I had the pin come loose in the diff and really grind things up in there. Well the warranty covered it and they fixed the darn thing at the dealership.Ok, so far so good, well as I mentioned before this time when the noise started I stuck a magnetic probe in the diff to check for metal and it came up with little parts of the teeth from the ring gear. Well after I swapped out the rear with the one from the junk yard I figured I would take off the cover and see what was making all the noise, I thought I would find a worn ring and pinion, especially since the oil had little nuggets of ring gear in it. Nope instead I found a bad bearing, Ring and Pinion are in great shape. So where did the metal come from? My guess is the Dealer reused the gear oil on the rebuild. What do You Think?
I think that is sorry service. Or, is that a common practice? Once again Thanks for the Advice...Logan |
#10
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Quote:
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#11
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The metal is most likely coming from the spider gears,its been my experience that these are the 1st to go in the 8 1/4,91/4 and dana,the 8 3/4 doesnt have this problem,I'll bet this caused your carrier bearing failure.To check spider gears for wear look at the "V" of the teeth if they are rounded off towards the top of the tooth then they are bad,they must not temper them as much as needed as Ive seen 50 or so such failures.If you catch it early enough you can change spiders and fluid and not do any other damage.My Dana 60 with 150k just started this problem but spider gears for it are $140,fortunately I found a complete unit w/posi and only 69k on it for $300...PRO...
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#12
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The metal is most likely coming from the spider gears,its been my experience that these are the 1st to go in the 8 1/4,91/4 and dana,the 8 3/4 doesnt have this problem,I'll bet this caused your carrier bearing failure.To check spider gears for wear look at the "V" of the teeth if they are rounded off towards the top of the tooth then they are bad,they must not temper them as much as needed as Ive seen 50 or so such failures.If you catch it early enough you can change spiders and fluid and not do any other damage.My Dana 60 with 150k just started this problem but spider gears for it are $140,fortunately I found a complete unit w/posi and only 69k on it for $300, V10 you said parts for the 741 carrier are not available,I have not had any problem getting them here in Colo.,I think its a myth that this is the carrier to avoid,sure it only has a 1 3/8 pinion diameter but I have had one in my 11 sec 67 Coronet for 4 yrs with no failures...PRO...
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