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#1
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New 63 Dart! Lots of questions!
Hey all my oldest just picked up a decent 63 Dart 2 dr with a slant down in the lone star state where he is stationed. I have 74 360/727 combo looking for a home. I think a pro stock look would look good so a warmed up street config is in order. I have never owned an A body this old, what is it going to take to lose the slant and stick and put the 360/auto in place and a good rear susspension set up? What are some good donner vehicles for a rear? Also what is a good place for a fiberglass hood and such? Thanks in advance!
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#2
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I have always been keen on the early A-bodies. '63-'66 A-bodies are considered early, or/and narrow A-bodies.
They were first available only with /6, but in '64 the 273 LA engine became available. V8 and /6 models used the same K-members, and the engine mounts are available from Schumacher. http://www.engine-swaps.com/ . The trans tunnel was never intended for a 727, it's a very good idea to make additional room to the tunnel. The '63 model wasn't available with a V8, and its wiper motor interferes with the SB distributor, so you have to replace it with a newer unit. Exhaust is another concern, the front frame rails are about 1.5" closer to each other than in the '67 & up A-bodies, so there is less room for the exhaust and the headers available tend to be rpetty expensive. They are available however, Doug's D450 are "original D-Dart headers", TTI has also got an under chassis model http://www.ttiexhaust.com/Headers-EarlyA/TTI636A.htm , Hooker 5208's are partial fenderwells with the collectors under the car, makes building exhaust easier, and Hedman still offers fenderwell headers for the early small block darts & valiants. Except for the centerlink, the suspension and brake parts are similar to those of the '67 & up models, and tricks & conversions that work with them also work with the early cars. There are two different centerlinks for the early cars, a /6 model and a V8 model. The V8 centerlink is dropped more at the center than the /6 model, but you can use also the /6 centerlink with the V8 engine. Rear axle widths, rear springs and attaching points are the same as in the '67 & up models, so everything meant for the newer A-bodies also work in the early models. The body is a little narrower than in the newer cars and the wheelwells too, so in stock configuration you really can't put a lot of tire under these cars stock, and it's a good idea to stick with the original width or narrower rear axle. Although when I purchased my old '66 it had a late 60's B-body 8 3/4" offset hangers for the springs and with the wheel openings opened up accepted 275/60/15 tires. About the body parts, I really don't know what's available over there, but '63 and '64 darts have the same basic front end sheetmetal, '65 and '66 are both different. You can change for example a whole '65 or '66 front end to a '63 and vice versa if that's easier. Or even a '63-'66 valiant front end fits. Here is some photos and story of my old '66 http://www.moparts.org/moparts/carsh...er2/jyrki.html |
#3
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You could look up a V8 K frame or just get the conversion mounts from Schumacher Creative Services:
www.engine-swaps.com/ hey dart, you beat me to it...lol |
#4
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All great info, Shumacher sounds like the way to go for ease of application. How much does the tranny tunnel need to be opened up? I have warmed up to these older darts over the years, I have always been a fan of the early 70's. I am sure htis car is manual brakes and steering which I plan on keeping for more HP. Disc brakes are a must but manual discs should work good with a good valve. Sheet metal for these cars is scarace on the net, does anybody know where to find some fiberglass replacement parts?
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#5
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You don't have to open the trans tunnel necessarily, flattening the body seam above the bellhousing area may be all you need. But it will be pretty tight over there, I have always made my life easier be enlargening it some. definitely go with disc brakes in front, perhaps the easiest and best way would be finding discs, spindles & calibers out of some F, M or whichever newer RWD car, and purchase new A-body tubular upper control arms with the '73 & up bigger ball joints. That way you can propably also have enough adjustment for proper alignment job, and the parts needed should be easy to find.
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#6
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I plan on going with a 8 1/4 rear due to the weight of the car and being planned under 500 hp. Is there any direct fit drive shafts out there for this fit?
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#7
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Hey guys speaking of this kind of stuff, I have a 67 2dr Dart with a slant 6 in it..How big of a pain in the neck is it to put a B or RB in a Dart? I mud race, but my father-in-law wants to get me into Drag Racing. I have a lot of BB parts, not so much experience with LA's and don't have any, and I am just a BB type of person..... If custom fabricating is required, that's not a problem, afterall I put a 440 in a D50, I was just wondering about headers, steering, K-members, and other potential problems... Thanks
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#8
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Quote:
They got you covered on every aspect and have many members that have done and are doing the same thing as you want to do! |
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